75 d100 360

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doopdoop67

doopdoop67

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Hey guys I just bought a 360 from a 75 power wagon. I plan on putting it in my 67 dart. I have a 318 in it now. I heard the mounts are different and the converter? What do I need to make it work?
 
I put a 360 from a 75 Power Wagon into a 76 Power Wagon LOL anyways the 360 has weights on the outside and the 318 or 3: 40 or 273 are all internally balanced and are weighted on the inside. This means the 360 has a off waited harmonic balancer and a off weighted flexplate flywheel or torque converter. Some people will get the flex plate weighted that way you can use the same torque converter or you can just weld the weights on to the torque converter like I did. there's plenty of people on here with plenty of diagrams and the weights should only be about 5 bucks or you can knock them off of a old torque converter like I did. Also the motor mounts on a truck will be different than a car. And 318 motor mounts are the same on the passenger side as a 360 car but the The driver side needs to be modified. Which can be done to a 318 to make it work with a 360 I've done it.
 
doopdoop67 said:
Hey guys I just bought a 360 from a 75 power wagon. I plan on putting it in my 67 dart. I have a 318 in it now. I heard the mounts are different and the converter? What do I need to make it work?
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Hello doopdoop67,
I am about to put a 360 in place of a 318 also. The 360 is externally balanced and as a result the harmonic balancer and flywheel are used to properly balance the engine. Since you are using an auto trans you need the correct plate and possibly the torque converter as well. If it came from a manual trans. truck than you need to change the balancer as well. I got mine from an auto truck and the flexplate looked the same as any other so I think the torque converter is weighted to balance it. Not positive about that maybe some of the other members can clarify us on that. The motor mounts are different as one of the ears on the block are different. I got my mounts from Schumacher. They make a nice product. You will also need to swap over the oil pan and oil pickup to a center sump. Other than that it is a bolt right in swap.
 
A833 said:
Hello doopdoop67,
I am about to put a 360 in place of a 318 also. The 360 is externally balanced and as a result the harmonic balancer and flywheel are used to properly balance the engine. Since you are using an auto trans you need the correct plate and possibly the torque converter as well. If it came from a manual trans. truck than you need to change the balancer as well. I got mine from an auto truck and the flexplate looked the same as any other so I think the torque converter is weighted to balance it. Not positive about that maybe some of the other members can clarify us on that. The motor mounts are different as one of the ears on the block are different. I got my mounts from Schumacher. They make a nice product. You will also need to swap over the oil pan and oil pickup to a center sump. Other than that it is a bolt right in swap.
Click to expand...
I forgot about the oil pan and pick up. From a truck to a car yes it needs to be changed. I see no reason to change the harmonic balancer? if it's a 360 harmonic balancer already on there it wouldn't matter if it had an automatic or stick shift transmission. Stock the stick shift would have had an weighted flywheel if it was an automatic it had two waits on the torque converter just on either side of the drain plug of the torque converter. Again a flexplate can be waited to use with a neutral balanced torque converter they sell those but they're expensive and much more expensive than just welging a cup of weights on your torque converter.
 
Out of a truck.
It should have had the 727 trans, so the flex plate is a different diameter, where the converter bolts up.
B&M makes the proper flex plate to bolt to the 318 converter.
Motor mounts are easy, just put a stack of washers on the mounts, no need to spend any money here.
Oil pan, pickup will be needed from a 360 car or summit sells OE style pans and pickups reasonable.
Also buy a car dipstick and tube from a car, the truck one is longer, and will not read correctly.
 
I highly recommend to tie the engine down so you don't rip the motor-mount apart, Shumacher makes those as well.
The early rad and the late water pump are not gonna play nice together.
And how are you gonna set the timing, if you have power-steering. The best idea is to convert the rad, but second best is to put the early 318 stuff onto the the later360; that might work for a while, until you put a 4bbl on it.
I guess you'll need some bigger tires too......... but if you start hooking, you'll be looking at upgrading the trans soon.
And then there's the exhaust system to deal with.
Of course, with the new-found power, you're gonna be adopting a new driving style before long; and then if you haven't already, the brakes will need to keep up.
And if the 7.25 is still in there, you might as well start shopping for something bigger, and with a SureGrip.
 
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Wow you gave him answers to questions he never asked. You might as well tell him what color to paint the car too. Because Red Cars go faster.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I highly recommend to tie the engine down so you don't rip the motor-mount apart, Shumacher makes those as well.
The early rad and the late water pump are not gonna play nice together.
And how are you gonna set the timing, if you have power-steering. The best idea is to convert the rad, but second best is to put the early 318 stuff onto the the later360; that might work for a while, until you put a 4bbl on it.
I guess you'll need some bigger tires too......... but if you start hooking, you'll be looking at upgrading the trans soon.
And then there's the exhaust system to deal with.
Of course, with the new-found power, you're gonna be adopting a new driving style before long; and then if you haven't already, the brakes will need to keep up.
And if the 7.25 is still in there, you might as well start shopping for something bigger, and with a SureGrip.
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Lol wow I’m overwhelmed. I actually just bought a 8 3/4. I also put disk brakes in it about a year ago.
 

j par said:
I forgot about the oil pan and pick up. From a truck to a car yes it needs to be changed. I see no reason to change the harmonic balancer? if it's a 360 harmonic balancer already on there it wouldn't matter if it had an automatic or stick shift transmission. Stock the stick shift would have had an weighted flywheel if it was an automatic it had two waits on the torque converter just on either side of the drain plug of the torque converter. Again a flexplate can be waited to use with a neutral balanced torque converter they sell those but they're expensive and much more expensive than just welging a cup of weights on your torque converter.
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IF you look into it the auto and manual harmonic balancers are a different part number! As they say "fill you're library before you fill you're garage."
 
j par said:
We're they a different weights?
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I went to order a new one for my swap and thats when I discovered that there was a different one for each application. Note the flywheel for the 360 has three counter bored holes in it to balance, not added weights. I also solved the radiator issue by using a 1970 Dart rad. same year they changed the water pump config. Probably bolt right into his 67.
 
You could also simply change to a flexplate that will give that 360 the balance it needs and run your existing converter. (neutral balance) It would be cheaper than buying a new converter, and you could run any converter you wanted (multiple converter bolt patterns) without upsetting engine balance..

B&M Flexplates 10236
 
A833 said:
I went to order a new one for my swap and thats when I discovered that there was a different one for each application. Note the flywheel for the 360 has three counter bored holes in it to balance, not added weights. I also solved the radiator issue by using a 1970 Dart rad. same year they changed the water pump config. Probably bolt right into his 67.
Click to expand...
I was asking if a 360 automatic harmonic balancer is weighted different then the 360 stick shift harmonic balancer? Or at least that's the way I take it that you're saying this.
 
'63GT said:
You could also simply change to a flexplate that will give that 360 the balance it needs and run your existing converter. (neutral balance) It would be cheaper than buying a new converter, and you could run any converter you wanted (multiple converter bolt patterns) without upsetting engine balance..

B&M Flexplates 10236
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Or for practically nothing he could weld the weights on to his torque converter? I just knocked a couple 360 torque converter weights off an old converter and Tack them onto mine.
20171219_202155.jpg
IMG_20180101_133320.jpg

The first picture on the bottom you can see where they weren't there. On the second picture you can see the old welds on the top side were they're welded to the old torque converter. In the second picture I'm just placing them and getting ready to attack them on. I had some members help me with exactly where they should be. You would think they'd have to be pretty damn exact, but there is really a little bit of room for play. The engine and transmission run as smooth as butter...
 
^^^yet another example of why everyone should have at least an $87 with coupon Harbor Freight welder. The damn near pays for itself every time you use it....
 
j par said:
Or for practically nothing he could weld the weights on to his torque converter? I just knocked a couple 360 torque converter weights off an old converter and Tack them onto mine.
Click to expand...

You're absolutely right about that, Jpar. (for those of us who have skills and are not afraid of performing a hack like that)
Not everyone is ready to tackle it. Just sayin...
 
'63GT said:
You're absolutely right about that, Jpar. (for those of us who have skills and are not afraid of performing a hack like that)
Not everyone is ready to tackle it. Just sayin...
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oh I very much appreciate the fact that most people like they bought their car would just like to buy a part and have someone put it on. I'm almost always get this when I suggest that people actually do some of the work themselves. I'm not sure where the hack part came from though?
 
j par said:
oh I very much appreciate the fact that most people like they bought their car would just like to buy a part and have someone put it on. I'm almost always get this when I suggest that people actually do some of the work themselves. I'm not sure where the hack part came from though?
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AGREED !
...happens all too much these days..
If I don't build it, ground up, I don't feel like I own it, myself.
I like your way of thinking though. Perhaps I used the word 'hack' out of context, I suppose. thought it seems to be a current term for making something previously 'unusable' to 'useable'.
You are soo correct about the weights.. Hey, that's what the factory did.. it's not kryptonite.
 
'63GT said:
AGREED !
...happens all too much these days..
If I don't build it, ground up, I don't feel like I own it, myself.
I like your way of thinking though. Perhaps I used the word 'hack' out of context, I suppose. thought it seems to be a current term for making something previously 'unusable' to 'useable'.
You are soo correct about the weights.. Hey, that's what the factory did.. it's not kryptonite.
Click to expand...
Unusable to usable is more of a word like restoration? A hack as I take it as more someone who does a half-*** job at what could be done correctly. I believe I had done that correctly? I didn't put the correct weights in the correct place?
 
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