Sirsmiley9
Well-Known Member
I replaced my clutch with a diaphragm clutch and now it seems my adjustment rod is not long enough, because without it popping the clutch fork off I can’t have it go any farther
76 duster clutch pedal will come up 2-3 inches off the ground but not all the way
- Thread starter Sirsmiley9
- Start date
-
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Likely not part of the immediate problem but did you remove the over-center spring under the dash? Get a helper, push the pedal down, and stuff the spring coils full of washers or coins. Then just unbolt the one bracket and it will fall out.
Was it working "great' with the old clutch? If so, that would remove possibility that you have bent/ cracked/ damaged linkage. otherwise, yeh, too short a rod. "Back in the day" I put a Corvette diaphragm clutch in my 340 swapped 70 RR. It would not release. Turned out the clutch cover was just plain defective. So don't set aside that possibility
Was it working "great' with the old clutch? If so, that would remove possibility that you have bent/ cracked/ damaged linkage. otherwise, yeh, too short a rod. "Back in the day" I put a Corvette diaphragm clutch in my 340 swapped 70 RR. It would not release. Turned out the clutch cover was just plain defective. So don't set aside that possibility
Sirsmiley9
Well-Known Member
I have already removed the over center spring, but the old clutch was working great. However I cant seem to find a longer adjustment rod to use for this only replacement 7.5 inch ones
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 24,898
- Reaction score
- 12,250
Start by checking the installed position of the fork, with the TO bearing touching the fingers. It should be more or less centered vertically in the window, and very near the forward edge of it.
If it's not, check to see that it is STRAIGHT from end to end, and IIRC over 12 inches long.
Next, make sure that your Z-bar is properly located and NOT moving laterally at all, during operation. Also, it should be parallel to the ground and at about 90* to the centerline of the vehicle.
Did you replace the TO bearing as a complete part pre-mounted on the carrier, and was it the same as the one you replaced?
If it's not, check to see that it is STRAIGHT from end to end, and IIRC over 12 inches long.
Next, make sure that your Z-bar is properly located and NOT moving laterally at all, during operation. Also, it should be parallel to the ground and at about 90* to the centerline of the vehicle.
Did you replace the TO bearing as a complete part pre-mounted on the carrier, and was it the same as the one you replaced?
Last edited:
Inertia
Well-Known Member
It's possible for the bell housing pivot to be located in a manner that the fork lever will interfere with the top of the collector, needing a minor adjustment to clear between the tubes/collector, not letting the pedal return. ?
Sirsmiley9
Well-Known Member
The to bearing will touch the fingers but when doing so the other side of the fork is close to if not falling off the adjustment rod there is a little bit of play on the fork and I’m wondering if this is the incorrect pivot on the bellhousing, because it is a quick time bellhousing
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 24,898
- Reaction score
- 12,250
I think I can see your problem from here.
There is no way you should have been able to take that picture, with a camera; the fork should have been all the way forward in the window, and obstructing your view.
That geometry is controlled by;
the height of the fingers relative to the pressure-plate, the thickness of the clutch disc, the length of the TO bearing, and the height of the fork's pivot. One or more of those I think is wrong. And of those, the most likely is the PP and/or disc.
Unless the thrust bearing is gone off the crank, but surely you would be hearing it clatter,lol.
Let's wait for another opinion.
There is no way you should have been able to take that picture, with a camera; the fork should have been all the way forward in the window, and obstructing your view.
That geometry is controlled by;
the height of the fingers relative to the pressure-plate, the thickness of the clutch disc, the length of the TO bearing, and the height of the fork's pivot. One or more of those I think is wrong. And of those, the most likely is the PP and/or disc.
Unless the thrust bearing is gone off the crank, but surely you would be hearing it clatter,lol.
Let's wait for another opinion.
Remove the transmission and put the clutch disc in the right way.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Lol .
Daves69
Well-Known Member
Does the PP release the disc at all?
I'm not a diaphragm clutch guy but isn't it common for the peddle to be low. Some complain the peddle flops around when the release is set right.
Caution, you may need to make sure you are not driving the fingers into the disc or bending them due to over adjusting.
BTW, It's the OC spring that pulls the peddle up to the top with a B&B clutch not the PP. When pushing the peddle down the spring assists in the effort. So the spring works in both directions depending on which side if "center" it's on.
Sirsmiley9
Well-Known Member
After a bit of research into these quick time bell housings I think it might be this one, because of this thread Quicktime Bellhousing Issues The to bearing and clutch fingers seem to be not the issue instead the end of the fork goes to far back to stay attached to the rod
19DART66
Well-Known Member
Yes you have to make a shim to place between the fork pivot and bell housing to get the proper throw on the clutch fork. I made a 1/4 inch shim for my 66 Dart with a Long adjustable pressure plate. With the diaphragm clutch you may need a thicker or maybe thinner shim for your year and set up.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 24,898
- Reaction score
- 12,250
There you go OP;
The fork has to come to the front of the window. Unless you can buy a taller fork-pivot, shimming will be required.
There are three places you can shim,namely the fork pivot, the TO bearing and I guess you could shim between the crank and the flywheel. The easiest is the one mentioned above.
After the fork is in the correct position, and the freeplay has been set, then you can install a stiffer anti-rattle spring on the fork, which will then push the pedal up.
BTW;
Dave makes a good point
I installed a much lighter OC-spring in place of the factory one. The stiffer spring below sends the pedal up, to a point, and then the upper spring takes over, and is just enough to park the pedal at the top to make a satisfying thunk.
I also run the freeplay on the minimum, and adjust it "more often". You only need enough freeplay to keep the TO bearing off the fingers. If the TO bearing was to spin continuously, it might not last as long as the disc, making extra work for you. But the factory 1" spec is enough to compensate for many thousands of miles of disc-wear. For a seasonal street-car, this could be several years worth, so IMO, at the factory spec,you are always stabbing that pedal further than you really need to.......
Another important thing Dave mentions is;
You will have to learn where the clutch is adequately released, and DO NOT push the pedal much further. You may want to install a limiter somewhere, often a block/stopper, under the pedal.
Interesting tidbit;
Where the pedal parks kindof depends on the length of your arms; don't laugh.... If you have short arms, you will move the seat up to be able to control your steering. If you also have long legs, your knees will be very bent, making controlled engagement, in certain situations, difficult. If this happens to you, you will be wanting; either
1) a lower pedal parking position, to straighten out your leg some. or
2) The alternative is to bring the column back as far as it goes, then move the seat back, and finally get a deeper dish steering wheel, to bring it closer to your chest.
Just remember, studies have shown that running at a brickwall, at ~12 mph,a human being cannot prevent intimate contact between his face and the wall. I tried it when I was a teenager, and I didn't hit no 12 mph before it was very apparent that it would take a very strong man to stop himself at the full 12. Your classic car has no airbag and no crumple zone, and no decent seat belt. The closer that steering wheel is to your chest, IDK.......
Lucky for me; I fit in my 68 Barracuda just about right, with just a small-diameter big fat foamed steering wheel. I am fully aware that a sudden-stop is almost guaranteed to re-arrange my facial features. A lil off-track, I know,but.......
Happy HotRodding
The fork has to come to the front of the window. Unless you can buy a taller fork-pivot, shimming will be required.
There are three places you can shim,namely the fork pivot, the TO bearing and I guess you could shim between the crank and the flywheel. The easiest is the one mentioned above.
After the fork is in the correct position, and the freeplay has been set, then you can install a stiffer anti-rattle spring on the fork, which will then push the pedal up.
BTW;
Dave makes a good point
I installed a much lighter OC-spring in place of the factory one. The stiffer spring below sends the pedal up, to a point, and then the upper spring takes over, and is just enough to park the pedal at the top to make a satisfying thunk.
I also run the freeplay on the minimum, and adjust it "more often". You only need enough freeplay to keep the TO bearing off the fingers. If the TO bearing was to spin continuously, it might not last as long as the disc, making extra work for you. But the factory 1" spec is enough to compensate for many thousands of miles of disc-wear. For a seasonal street-car, this could be several years worth, so IMO, at the factory spec,you are always stabbing that pedal further than you really need to.......
Another important thing Dave mentions is;
You will have to learn where the clutch is adequately released, and DO NOT push the pedal much further. You may want to install a limiter somewhere, often a block/stopper, under the pedal.
Interesting tidbit;
Where the pedal parks kindof depends on the length of your arms; don't laugh.... If you have short arms, you will move the seat up to be able to control your steering. If you also have long legs, your knees will be very bent, making controlled engagement, in certain situations, difficult. If this happens to you, you will be wanting; either
1) a lower pedal parking position, to straighten out your leg some. or
2) The alternative is to bring the column back as far as it goes, then move the seat back, and finally get a deeper dish steering wheel, to bring it closer to your chest.
Just remember, studies have shown that running at a brickwall, at ~12 mph,a human being cannot prevent intimate contact between his face and the wall. I tried it when I was a teenager, and I didn't hit no 12 mph before it was very apparent that it would take a very strong man to stop himself at the full 12. Your classic car has no airbag and no crumple zone, and no decent seat belt. The closer that steering wheel is to your chest, IDK.......
Lucky for me; I fit in my 68 Barracuda just about right, with just a small-diameter big fat foamed steering wheel. I am fully aware that a sudden-stop is almost guaranteed to re-arrange my facial features. A lil off-track, I know,but.......
Happy HotRodding
Last edited:
-
