[Found!] 8 1/4 Differential desperately wanted

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C2ndLTpigeon

Mopar or no Car!
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Still looking for an 8 1/4 rear end for my 73 valiant. I really prefer to have one before I start my project and do not want to "just run with the 7 1/4" for a while or until it breaks. I've been reading countless threads that they are absolute garbage and have destroyed themselves with regular use. The rear end is holding up my project plans. I do not want to have to convert a newer rear to fit an A body.

From what I can tell by measuring 56 in from end drum to drum.
Not worried about gearing since I can change them out.
Im located in CA but if someone is willing to ship I can pay if the total is right.

Im still hoping someone has one laying around there not using.

Thanks
-Rafael

PS Here is my Project car
97405182_3057258900986542_1401855541340274688_o.jpg
 
I dont understand why it should hold up your project. Depending on the plans, if its brakes holding you up, some 7.25’s and 8.25’s share the same brake cylinders,shoes and drums.

i got what i thought was an 8.25 from a diplomat, a tad wider but would suit my need. 10 bolt cover. But it is a 7.25. The tell tale is the step in the axle tube, 2-1/2” at diff housing stepped up to 3”.
8.25 is 3” right through. When looking for a diff, dont forget to ask for shock mounts too.

things i learned in the last few weeks, diffs with very high ratios, 2.26 in my case, will not take a low gear set. The carrier is different.

I wouldnt think twice about running a 7.25 if thats all i had,they just cant handle big power.
 
The later 10 bolt cover 7-1/4 is stronger than the old nine bolt 7-1/4 axle. I've seen several that were available in F,J,& M bodies as well as Dakotas with the 2.5 four cylinder.
 
"Best case scenario" is probably an M body housing with an early Dakota 3.55 and carrier (and possible SG) swapped in.
 
And then there are some people who run the 9 bolt "weak" version of the 7.25 and never have trouble. Just drive it normal while it's in there and it'll probably be ok. At least that way, you can go on with your project and still look.
 
Not sure what you are building, but my son's 1973 4 door Dodge Dart has a 7 1/4 rear. 2.76 sure grip, still going strong behind a 318 with 273 4 barrel intake and carb, 73 340 exhaust manifolds, dual exhaust and a small Mopar Performance camshaft. 100,000+ miles. I also had an early 7 1/4 rear 3.23 sure grip in a 66 Formula S 273 Commando 4 speed that worked fine for 100,000+ miles. All that said, I know where there is an A Body 8 1/4 rear for $300. I could crate it up and ship from SC. Do you want to spend that much and shipping?
 
Thats just the thing, I like to gas it, floor it etc, which I know will break it when I get done with a build. At 28 i've been stuck in the slow 4 cyl FWD car age and finally got something I can attempt to put some horsepower into. Post after post shows there is no good from a 7 1/4, and these things can grenade themselves with the slightest abuse.
If im having and issue finding one now, I would prefer not to do my build, blow it up and have my ride sitting for a while waiting to source out a rear end. Engine and transmission parts are plentiful but it seems rears are becoming hard to find.

Junkyards in CA are a ripoff since they have to pull the parts off for safety reasons so they charge 3x what the part is actually worth.

I didn't think a rear would be so hard to find otherwise I would of keep this in mind when searching for my project car. Ive been searching like crazy everywhere.
 
Not sure what you are building, but my son's 1973 4 door Dodge Dart has a 7 1/4 rear. 2.76 sure grip, still going strong behind a 318 with 273 4 barrel intake and carb, 73 340 exhaust manifolds, dual exhaust and a small Mopar Performance camshaft. 100,000+ miles. All that said, I know where there is an A Body 8 1/4 rear for $300. I could crate it up and ship from SC. Do you want to spend that much and shipping?

The suregrip might be whats holding it better than the non SG.
Plan is a port work on the 318 heads, edelbrock performer intake, edelbrock 650CFM 4 barrel, Hughes performance whiplash cam, and a shift kit in the 904.

Can you give me an Idea what the total would be shipped?
 
All I can tell you is the one in the Barracuda saw many an impromptu "race" during it's life. The 273 was faster than the 318 in the Dart. There is an 8 3/4 now in the Formula S, because I could easily change gears to suit. The original 7 1/4 rear was fine when I changed to the larger rear. I'll get an idea on shipping. Are you willing to pick it up at a terminal? Near Indio, CA
 
All I can tell you is the one in the Barracuda saw many an impromptu "race" during it's life. The 273 was faster than the 318 in the Dart. There is an 8 3/4 now in the Formula S, because I could easily change gears to suit. The original 7 1/4 rear was fine when I changed to the larger rear. I'll get an idea on shipping. Are you willing to pick it up at a terminal? Near Indio, CA

PM sent
 
"Best case scenario" is probably an M body housing with an early Dakota 3.55 and carrier (and possible SG) swapped in.

I have an M body Chrysler Fifth Avenue, it was once mine and now my wifes car, she has and 8 1/4 but im not about jacking hers lol
 
Isn’t the sure grip in the 7-1/4 a Powr-Lok unit? I know those make a 7-1/4 much stronger than an open unit.
 
I think if you’re concerned about the 7 1/4 packing it in, I think you should also be concerned about your car being t-boned or in another type of accident caused by another driver. The odds of an accident are higher than the 7 1/4 packing it in. What’s your back up plan for the accident so you’re not in a holding pattern without a car?

It’s clear your desktop research shows the 7 1/4 will fail soon so convincing you otherwise is futile. Someone should sell him an 8 1/4 for market price plus shipping and the problem is solved. Fussing about the price of it is a moot point as you’ve shown your hand you need the item, so be prepared to pay up for it. This is your third thread created wanting a larger rear end! Complaining about the price of it from wreckers has you contradicting your need for not wanting to hold up your project.

When it comes to almost everything, there are 3 things we all want but you can only have two. Cheap, Fast and Reliable. You want the item fast (to not hold up your project) and you know the 8 1/4 will be more reliable which checks off the second item. Therefore you can’t have it for cheap or a good price. You can’t have all 3.

Somehow I think there will be a post in 6 months time once the project is done talking about how your fuel economy is worse and what options there are to improve it?
 
I think if you’re concerned about the 7 1/4 packing it in, I think you should also be concerned about your car being t-boned or in another type of accident caused by another driver. The odds of an accident are higher than the 7 1/4 packing it in. What’s your back up plan for the accident so you’re not in a holding pattern without a car?

It’s clear your desktop research shows the 7 1/4 will fail soon so convincing you otherwise is futile. Someone should sell him an 8 1/4 for market price plus shipping and the problem is solved. Fussing about the price of it is a moot point as you’ve shown your hand you need the item, so be prepared to pay up for it. Complaining about the price of it from wreckers has you contradicting your need for not wanting to hold up your project.

When it comes to almost everything, there are 3 things we all want but you can only have two. Cheap, Fast and Reliable. You want the item fast (to not hold up your project) and you know the 8 1/4 will be more reliable which checks off the second item. Therefore you can’t have it for cheap or a good price. You can’t have all 3.

Somehow I think there will be a post in 6 months time once the project is done talking about how your fuel economy is worse and what options there are to improve it?

If I got in an accident like I have been in once by being rear ended by a drunk driver I will drive one of my other 6 cars. I have my Dodge Neons for fuel economy. So no I will not be complaining 6 months about that. This is my performance car, the one car that I can finally modify in this Commie state with its emissions standards.

On a side note I think I have found a rear from another member and he is willing to deliver. JY in California are a rip off in general. Not to mention Ive searched their inventory no one has an A-Body spec rear. I do not want to convert a Jeep, Dekota etc. I want one that came out of an A-body and most wreck yards do not take in vehicles past 1990.
 
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