8 3/4 build

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pghjeeper

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So I picked up an A Body 8 3/4 for 100. As you probably have guessed it’s a empty housing. My 67 Dart has its original 7 1/4 that it stayed life with.

I think I can find a b body center section relatively cheap locally. I planned to do 3.73/3.91 gears and Eaton Truetrac.

My question is about the axle shafts and brakes. First can I/ should I reuse the stock brakes from my 7 1/4? Or should I just do a disc swap.
Second I want to get something like Mosier, Yukon or Dutchman axles. I’d rather run taper bearing than green bearings and I’d like to not have to cut them. Any opinions on those three companies or is there a better option? I’d also like to do the big bolt pattern swap while I’m at it.
 
Call Dr Diff

He has everything you need at a more than fair price.

Is the housing 52 5/8 inchs wide.
 
Call Dr Diff

He has everything you need at a more than fair price.

Is the housing 52 5/8 inchs wide.

x2!

Dr Diff is good and will set you up with quality stuff. Although, instead of building an 8 3/4 again, I probably would have paid for a new rear end from him. It came out to almost the same price.
 
So I picked up an A Body 8 3/4 for 100. As you probably have guessed it’s a empty housing. My 67 Dart has its original 7 1/4 that it stayed life with.

I think I can find a b body center section relatively cheap locally. I planned to do 3.73/3.91 gears and Eaton Truetrac.

My question is about the axle shafts and brakes. First can I/ should I reuse the stock brakes from my 7 1/4? Or should I just do a disc swap.
Second I want to get something like Mosier, Yukon or Dutchman axles. I’d rather run taper bearing than green bearings and I’d like to not have to cut them. Any opinions on those three companies or is there a better option? I’d also like to do the big bolt pattern swap while I’m at it.

a center section is a center section...A..B..C or E body....
if you order the axles from Dr. Diff...you do not need to cut anything...
back plates....???...you really want to run B body backing plates which will allow you to use the large bolt lug pattern without any other modification....plus as there are no A body drums that will fit a LBP without drilling them....both the drums and brakes can be bought at any part store for the B body

make sure you tell DR Diff what backing plates you are using as the axle off set for the A body and B body brakes are different...
 
a center section is a center section...A..B..C or E body....
if you order the axles from Dr. Diff...you do not need to cut anything...
back plates....???...you really want to run B body backing plates which will allow you to use the large bolt lug pattern without any other modification....plus as there are no A body drums that will fit a LBP without drilling them....both the drums and brakes can be bought at any part store for the B body

make sure you tell DR Diff what backing plates you are using as the axle off set for the A body and B body brakes are different...

To add to it, center sections from the Dodge Trucks also fit.

LBP A Body 8.25” Backing Plates/Brakes/Drums fit an 8-3/4”. That’s what I ran on the 8-3/4” in my ‘74 before I built a Dana 60 for it. My ‘73 had I think C Body backing plates and drums on it (I wanna say they were 11” or 12”, they were gigantic)
 
So I picked up an A Body 8 3/4 for 100. As you probably have guessed it’s a empty housing. My 67 Dart has its original 7 1/4 that it stayed life with.
My question is about the axle shafts and brakes. First can I/ should I reuse the stock brakes from my 7 1/4? Or should I just do a disc swap.
Second I want to get something like Mosier, Yukon or Dutchman axles. I’d rather run taper bearing than green bearings and I’d like to not have to cut them. Any opinions on those three companies or is there a better option? I’d also like to do the big bolt pattern swap while I’m at it.
Your 67 7.25 should have 9" brakes, and none of those parts,AFAIK, will transfer over to the 8.75. If you install the 10" stuff onto the back, and still have the 9" drums up front, You may have a brake-proportioning problem . If the rear brakes work too well, and if they lock up, then you could find yourself in a spin; that is to say the rear could slide to the side and try to pass you.. I say could, cuz it depends on some factors such as; rear tire bias,thrust angle,driver reaction time, and not much else,lol.Once the rear is sliding, you may have only milliseconds to avert the spin.

For a streeter,10" drum brakes on the back are more than adequate even with discs up front.
 
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Your 67 7.25 should have 9" brakes, and none of those parts,AFAIK, will transfer over to the 8.75. If you install the 10" stuff onto the back, and still have the 9" drums up front, You may have a brake-proportioning problem . If the rear brakes work too well, and if they lock up, then you could find yourself in a spin; that is to say the rear could slide to the side and try to pass you.. I say could, cuz it depends on some factors such as; rear tire bias,thrust angle,driver reaction time, and not much else,lol.Once the rear is sliding, you may have only milliseconds to avert the spin.

For a streeter,10" drum brakes on the back are more than adequate even with discs up front.
This is why I love this site you guys are so helpful and supportive.
The car has manual drums all around right now. I want to swap to discs in the front....but I could do the back too probably for not a whole lot more. I’d probably have to do later a body fronts and b body rear discs, in a kit
 
So I found an a body 8 3/4 bare hosing fairly cheap. I also found a 1966 Charger being parted out. It has an 8 3/4 in it. Besides the center section of it’s a 742 or 489, will the brakes work?
 
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So I found an a body 8 3/4 bare hosing fairly cheap. I also found a 1967 Charger being parted out. It has an 8 3/4 in it. Besides the center section of it’s a 742 or 489, will the brakes work?
.
If you get the bbp axles then yes they will work.
 
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