If you put the caps on backwards, the screw adjusters may be misaligned, and be hard to turn. When I get a unit with unmarked caps, I use the bearing races and adjusters to help align the caps, and if the bolts screw down ok, then it's right. But if not, I just flip the caps.
While the SG is out, you might as well go thru it.
I machine the bottom of the cones for minimum .050 clearance/.080 preferred. I use common radio solder correctly placed on the high point in the case,drop the cone in, and smack it down a couple of times,then extract the crushed solder and measure it.
After that, I inspect and repair the cross-pin and saddles,then
reduce the spider walk , then
reduce the side-gear to spider backlash. Usually this involves some die-grinder work to remove the ridges where the worn pattern meets the unworn.
Then,using the oil and SG additive pre-mixed, I lube everything up, and set the turning torque.
To do this, I have a pair of stub axles with a large nut welded onto the non-splined ends. I chuck one in the bench vise, then assemble the case over it,insert the second to align it all, and install the case-bolts. Finally, I dig out the torque-wrench and measure the turning torque. I'm not concerned about break-away torque,only turning torque after break-away.
For my combo 120ftlbs is about right, to affect loc-up in straightline, yet slips the inside tire around corners. 140 is too much/ 100 not enough. So I suppose the working range is 130 to 110, the heavy end preferred.
My combo is 295/50-15 BFG Radial T/As on 10s under a 68 Barracuda @3650pounds,me in it. This also works well with the 325/50-15 BFG Drag-Radials on 10s,at 3467race-weight, me in it..
Adjustment is by shimming or replacing the springs.
Don't forget to install the center axle-spacer, if using the tapered Timkin OEM axle bearings.
Don't forget to leave it out if using the Green bearings.
