833 Gear Pitting... Help!

-
eekvonzipper

eekvonzipper

My Member is Legendary!
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2020
Messages
1,462
Reaction score
1,528
Location
Cadet, Missouri
I've acquired a neglected early 833 for restore and daily drive...
If it has some pitted gears does that mean that it's done?
Here's a couple of bad examples. The Small one is the Reverse Idler.
The Other is probably 1st gear, I would guess.
The Front and Rear Bearings in it sound horrible, and it looks really bad overall
Can it be Saved?

gear1.jpg


gear2.jpg


20200823_130236.jpg
 
That straight cut reverse gear is toast. The others might have hope.
 
Here's a pic of the Shifter Bell for 3rd and 4th, and the rest exposed...
It's Not-So-Bad. Right?

bell.jpg


gears.jpg
 
What a Bummer! I just spent about $400 dollars on a Shifter... I guess I'm All-In.

P1010006.JPG.jpg
 
Demonic said:
I would get some Evaporust and soak them. You'll be surprised. Saveable.
Click to expand...
That will get rid of the rust, but the pitting and worse damage will still be there. It looks like that tranny had water in it. The Mopar 833 was pretty much bullet proof. There is a chance you could put that in and it would work OK. HOWEVER, do you want to go to the trouble of putting it in and then having to turn right around and take it out again??? @RustyRatRod is correct in saying some gears are toast and that he would not run it. I wouldn't either. It is out now, so either rebuild it or have it done. You will be SO much happier. Can you do it yourself, @eekvonzipper? I did one about 15 years ago. I had never done one, but with a Factory Repair manual and a pretty good tech article from an old Mopar Muscle Magazine, it was fairly easy. I could find that article for you, if that would help. Otherwise, call Brewer's Performance. They are EXPERTS with 833s. @Joeychgo, have you ever contacted Brewer's about being a FABO sponsor? FABO members seem to hold them in high regards, it might be a good match.
 
harrisonm said:
That will get rid of the rust, but the pitting and worse damage will still be there. It looks like that tranny had water in it. The Mopar 833 was pretty much bullet proof. There is a chance you could put that in and it would work OK. HOWEVER, do you want to go to the trouble of putting it in and then having to turn right around and take it out again??? @RustyRatRod is correct in saying some gears are toast and that he would not run it. I wouldn't either. It is out now, so either rebuild it or have it done. You will be SO much happier. Can you do it yourself, @eekvonzipper? I did one about 15 years ago. I had never done one, but with a Factory Repair manual and a pretty good tech article from an old Mopar Muscle Magazine, it was fairly easy. I could find that article for you, if that would help. Otherwise, call Brewer's Performance. They are EXPERTS with 833s. @Joeychgo, have you ever contacted Brewer's about being a FABO sponsor? FABO members seem to hold them in high regards, it might be a good match.
Click to expand...

X-2 for Brewers. I purchased a complete 4-speed conversion from them. Had a small hiccup with some parts but they responded immediately and corrected the problem. Highly recommend. As a side note, I also called Passon and spoke to Jamie. I am possibly upgrading to 5-speed. Also very credible and a wealth of knowledge. Also highly recommend!!
 
Brewers is the way to go!
You can prob send a couple hundred in parts, or buy a used one for about $400. But...
Send it to Dan at Brewers Performance in Laura, Ohio. Hes very cool, available by phone or email and he is the guy who actually rebuilds your transmission. No BS salesman. They're getting around $500, but it will be as good as new inside and out.
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
 
Last edited:
3rd Brewers! The gears if run are going to be Uber noisemakers. There is a chance they won’t fail but if they look like that the bearings inside are just as bad. I agree with all above saying to go thru it and buy Jamie Passions book sold on Amazon about 833. I just got my copy was like $20. ALOT of pictures and good info there about parts swapping, what to look for etc. Go slow and take your time. It will all be a good experience.
 
I’m with RRR. Get a good used reverse gear and 3-4 slider or new if you can’t find them used. I’d glass bead the rest of the gears and send it.

When I was breaking gear boxes every weekend I used gears worse than that. Just make sure they are clean so none of the ruse and scale ends up in the box.

It will be fine.
 
Demonic said:
I would get some Evaporust and soak them. You'll be surprised. Saveable.
Click to expand...

Evaporust is a great product, I use it myself, but it doesn't restore pits. That's just the long and short of it.
 
yellow rose said:
I’m with RRR. Get a good used reverse gear and 3-4 slider or new if you can’t find them used. I’d glass bead the rest of the gears and send it.

When I was breaking gear boxes every weekend I used gears worse than that. Just make sure they are clean so none of the ruse and scale ends up in the box.

It will be fine.
Click to expand...

Yeah because he just said he's spent 400 on a shifter......no tellin how deep he is with the rest. You just don't want that pitted reverse gear breaking a tooth off and ruining the whole show when you couldda got a good or new one for cheap. And the shift ring, those see some stress. It could easily get a crack in one of those pits.....that's not a production you want comin to your theater. So while you have it OUT where you can fix it, I would do it. I agree though, blast "the rest" and run it. As a whole, it's not that bad and if you do it right, it will make a nice transmission.
 
Pull out the cluster gear, I have a B-Body 4 speed that was noisy and found the bearing in the cluster were shot and it took out the cluster gear and the pin.
 
And I also agree with replacing every bearing in the thing. Those rebuild kits aren't all that bad compared to fixing a pile of scrap metal in the street. Also, I would inspect all of the synchros and blocker rings very closely. It probably needs a basic rebuild, plus the reverse gear, the slider and "whatever else" you find bad. It's certainly "worth" fixing.
 
Well I see the ball and trunion so you have a 3.09 first gear set, 64-65 A body trans.
Looking at the rust on the case, you need a complete teardown and inspection. Brewers can sell you the gears you need after you identify what is bad. At a minimum you will need o-rings, gasket set, most likely some bearings, needle bearings, etc.
Do you have a B&T driveshaft?
After you take everything into the equation, this might not be the box to run.
 
Ive got a 65 4 speed just sitting here withering away in my garage. Ill make you a good deal on it if youre interested.

Jake
 
You pull that out of a water-well did you?
I'd run that in an Early-A, behind a stock slanty; if;
If the cluster bore looked ok, and
You change all the bearings, and
you don't mind a lil noise, in first thru third. Direct will be quiet.
Just put some dyno oil in the box, no ATF.
Yes I would, cuz it only takes me 17 minutes to drop it down... on a hoist.
 
Yes on the driveshaft. I have a 3 speed barracuda.
Hyper_pak said:
Well I see the ball and trunion so you have a 3.09 first gear set, 64-65 A body trans.
Looking at the rust on the case, you need a complete teardown and inspection. Brewers can sell you the gears you need after you identify what is bad. At a minimum you will need o-rings, gasket set, most likely some bearings, needle bearings, etc.
Do you have a B&T driveshaft?
After you take everything into the equation, this might not be the box to run.
Click to expand...
Pe
 
AJ/FormS said:
You pull that out of a water-well did you?
I'd run that in an Early-A, behind a stock slanty; if;
If the cluster bore looked ok, and
You change all the bearings, and
you don't mind a lil noise, in first thru third. Direct will be quiet.
Just put some dyno oil in the box, no ATF.
Yes I would, cuz it only takes me 17 minutes to drop it down... on a hoist.
Click to expand...
Came out of a Leaky ole shed so yeah.
No side cover on it... I intend to piece it back together. I don't want another one. I really just need the pieces for this one, a lil advice and She'll roll!
 
Does anyone have internal pieces that they would part with?
An Input Shaft, A 3-4 Shift Ring, A Reverse Gear and an Output Flange for a Ball and Trunion?
 
eekvonzipper said:
Came out of a Leaky ole shed so yeah.
No side cover on it..
Click to expand...
In that case, I'll bet the water washed all the oil out, and your cluster is fubarred too. At that point I'd be more inclined to throw it all away. And here's why;
If water got into the cluster, then the bearings and the pin will be toast. And the bored hole in the cluster, where the needles ride will be probably the worst pitted of all, and there is no coming back from that. You cannot buff that out, and even if you could, there are no oversize needles that I know of for that application. If you just slap it all together with a good cleaning, the cluster will fall down a few thou, forcing all the mainshaft gears to run on a different part of the cluster teeth. With the already compromised gears, this is just waiting for a disaster. It might survive a slanty for awhile but an overhaul kit with new bearings, is not cheap, and if it blows up in a week, you'll be a very unhappy camper.
@xLURKxDOGx already posted a way better idea than re-bearinging that water-logged beast of yours. If his does not have the flange drive, you should be able to convert it with your parts if your M/S has survived.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top