904

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Torque converter drainback. Start it in neutral and let it fill up a min or 2. Make sure the level is full. Warm, level,in neutral.
 
I put the TransGo shift reprogram kit into my 727 valve body (904 the same). Biggest thing was changing the main shift plunger, now the pump will pump in Park and Neutral and it helps with the torque converter drain back too, rerouting the internal passages.

Big improvement for having to wait for the torque converter to fill on cold start ups.

Went conservative on Drilling the separator plate as I did not want it banging into gears.

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I have 2 96 Dakotas. Both V6 trucks. One does it and the other doesn't. My Swinger does it. I think the 904's are more prone.
 
Just hesitate in neutral for 15 seconds when going to drive. Maybe less. They pump very fast. See what the minimum is each morning and let us know.
 
Thanks for the replys. I was starting to worry. The 904 I had in my '48 Plymouth didn't have that problem. The TransGo kit looks like to much work for me but I came across a "how to" that tells how to drill some holes in the shift body plate which does almost the same thing.
 
I would post the site that goes through drilling holes in the separator plate if I could find it again. Sadly, after trying for three hours, I haven't found it as yet.
 
I always drill the plate for firmer shifts, but I think the only way to have converter charging in park is to replace the manual valve.
 
George Jet,
I notice the instruction sheet for the kit you posted instructs not to install in early 904's. Would that be also true for all shift kits or just the one you showed? The only instructions for drilling the separator plate are for the 727. Are the instruction for a 727 the same for the 904?
 
George Jet,
I notice the instruction sheet for the kit you posted instructs not to install in early 904's. Would that be also true for all shift kits or just the one you showed? The only instructions for drilling the separator plate are for the 727. Are the instruction for a 727 the same for the 904?

They say don't install the new manual valve on the 60-65s with the rear pump.

As far as I know the 904 and 727 valve bodies are all the same.

As far as drilling the separator plate, I went conservative on the drilling so that it would be nice smooth shifts, designated by the pencil numbers on the lower left of this pic.

Was for a 318 / 727 street driven car, was real happy with the outcome.

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I'll throw my hat in the ring for the transgo kit. Pop the linkage off take the pan out the three screws holding the screen on and then the 10 bolts holding the valve body on and it drops. Then you have all the time you need to play around on the bench and just put it back in. Also while the valve bodies out it's easy to make band adjustments which they go over and is also very easy. Ultra Soft shifts are slipping clutches and we know what slipping clutches lead too... I've never put one in and had the gears "Bang". Just firm reassuring shifts right when you want them... My-2..
 
All neatly laid out from disassembly, ready to reassemble in reverse order.

I took lots of pictures too, nice to look back on them as it is going together.

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My suggestion is tag and/or bag the springs. Some look very similar and you when you get them mixed up you’ll be scratching your head.
 
I prefer the sonnax pressure regulator valve to the transgo quick fix, check out part number 22771A-02K every torquefilte needs one of these
 
The 904 in my car takes a more throttle to move the car when started each day. After that its fine. Any ideas?

Some good info above, but let me add one thing.
"Morning sickness" which is what you are describing is a common ailment for older TF transmissions.
Converter drainback is a totally separate issue.

With "Morning sickness" the rubber seals in the trans are hardened up from age and let oil get by them until the trans is warmed up and the clutch packs seals are more flexible.
It's easy to tell which is which causing the problem.

Start the engine and put the shifter in neutral for 10-15 seconds, then into drive and see if it works right.
This tests for converter drainback.

If the trans still does what you described after doing that you have hardened up rubber in the trans and only a rebuild will fix it permanently.
If you find it still acts sluggish when cold after the converter drainback test you can use an additive that softens the rubber seals.
This usually works for awhile, but it will usually go back to being sluggish after the additive has done all it can and the rubber goes back to being hard again.
(Sometimes the trans will go back to working even worse than it was after the solvents in the additive wears out )

Follow the above testing procedure and it will answer exactly what the issue is.

Trans sealer can help temporarily because it softens the rubber seals, AND the internal rubber clutch pack seals letting them flare out easier when cold.
In the long run the trans leak sealer answers the question of what the problem is AND buys a little time before the rebuild is needed anyway.
 
I found out that the problem was there was hardly any fluid because the shift cable housing was leaking. I repaired the leak using a procedure that is on another post.
 
I found out that the problem was there was hardly any fluid because the shift cable housing was leaking. I repaired the leak using a procedure that is on another post.

Usually a guy finds his fluid is low BEFORE saying he has a trans issue. :D
Glad that's all it was.
 
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