95 Cherokee rear discs (pics)

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mtandrews

mtandrews

beware the Ides of March
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finally got a breather to install them on the 8.25 I'll be putting in my Duster (7.25 is kaput!). Swap was easy as pie, I was even able to "manipulate" the hard lines of the Cherokee to work on the 5th Ave rear.
View attachment 8.25d1.jpg

View attachment 8.25d2.jpg

View attachment 8.25d3.jpg

View attachment 8.25d4.jpg
had to take the grinder to the openings of the backing plate a little bit to fit over the ends of the axles. Cleaned and painted the calipers, new parking shoes and rotors. Now to get it under the car. Still trying to score some shock mounts/brackets/whatever so I can get it mounted. Then I get to figure out how to make the parking brake work...:munky2:
 
Of course you know this means I now hate you because I will absolutely have to be mucking around in the local pic-a-parts for the next few weeks until I find a Cherokee with rear discs. Thanks man.

Actually thanks, that is really good info. Thanks for the pics also....
 
late 94's to 99 works. Don't know about newer than that. Take the brake lines and all from the T-block on top of the diff. I was hoping the Jeep had a limited-slip too but no dice! The rotors, pads, and emergency brake shoes are cheap too.
 
Some of us would really appreciate some more detail on how you did this. Just tonight I found what is SUPPOSED to be a Ford 9" out of a Comet
 
MT,
the swap to the 8 1/4" should be a straight bolt on. except opening up the bearing hole and drilling the fifth hole. Give these guys alot of step by step pics, its a very popular subject. Good job.
In the mean time I will be done with the Cherokee/8 3/4" swap this week. The axle tube and all the other parts are currently in paint.
A teaser enclosed.
Andrew
 

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67Dart273 said:
Some of us would really appreciate some more detail on how you did this. Just tonight I found what is SUPPOSED to be a Ford 9" out of a Comet
Click to expand...
okey dokey. to keep me from getting diarrhea of the mouth (keyboard) because I tend to be "all over the map", give me a lead and I'll run with it...
 
even though not necessary I took the cut off wheel to these "ears" that are on the line. these were attached to the upper track arm via a small screw.
View attachment IMG00202-20101102-1658.jpg
Note the running of the hose, this way it fits and replaces the original brake line for the drum brakes. I had to do some creative bending of the steel lines but they work and the tread and size of the Jeep brakes are the same as the 88 Chrysler 5th Ave that the diff came out of.
View attachment IMG00203-20101102-1659.jpg
Also I had to ever so slightly take the die grinder to the opening of the backing plate for it to clear the axle ends. The rubber brake hose from the T where both steel lines connect even is a direct fit to the hard line of my Duster.
Still waiting on my shock plates as the plates with the big rubber block in it dont sit right on the Duster's leafs...

EDIT: I even noticed the plates are ambidextrous so you can either put the caliper to the front or the rear. I can see no mechanical advantage or disadvantage to either placement so if y'all know something please chime in. I put mine the way pictured to keep my bleeder valve towards the high point for obvious reasons...
 
You'll hear all sorts of arguements about caliper position. I don't think it really matters at all for the level of performance our cars will see. On rear disc conversions I have done, it usually is a matter of bleeder position and where the E-Brake cable ends up routing...
 
cool swap! i think the 8 1/4 and 8 3/4 rears have the same outer flanges correct?
 
MT,
I think the E cable is the determining factor here.
Wracks,
yes they do its the means of securing the actual axles that is different. 8 1/4" uses C clips.
Andrew
 
I even noticed the plates are ambidextrous so you can either put the caliper to the front or the rear. I can see no mechanical advantage or disadvantage to either placement so if y'all know something please chime in.
Oops, I meant top or bottom, not front or rear. I guess that if you want your parking cable on the bottom and your starwheel adjuster hole on top I guess you just switch them over but keep the caliper with the bleeder high.

EDIT: Thanks Blue Missile
 
As I understand it, you are using Jeep rears discs on a M Body 8.25 going in an A Body. Is that correct? Wonder if I'd be correct in saying that if one had an A Body 8.25, the same disc swap should be a piece of cake too? If so, I know what I'll be doing to the 8.25 A Body I've acquired.
 
Keep the brakes on the top. If you put them on the bottom, dirt and mud will settle on top of the brake pads and fall into the caliper. I hope you can understand what I am saying, I explained it a litle unclear.
 
65 Dartman said:
As I understand it, you are using Jeep rears discs on a M Body 8.25 going in an A Body. Is that correct? Wonder if I'd be correct in saying that if one had an A Body 8.25, the same disc swap should be a piece of cake too? If so, I know what I'll be doing to the 8.25 A Body I've acquired.
Click to expand...

yup, my jeep brakes are from a 95 Grand Cherokee 4WD, and the 8¼ is out of a 88 Chrysler 5th Ave. The ends of your 8¼ are the same so swap away!
 
Hey man do you have a list of lengths by years? I want to do this swap for my '63, it's got a 7 1/4.

,Cliff
 
dang bro, I don't think it fits on the 7¼ but I'll check... late 94(95) to 99 Grand Cherokee is the source.
 
Sorry man to vague, I want to put an 8 1/4 and wanted to know what may be close to the same length of my 7 1/4. That way I won't have to chop too much. Moving the spring plates is no prob, but I dont want to mess with tube or axle lengths.

,Cliff
 
blue missile said:
MT,
I think the E cable is the determining factor here.
Wracks,
yes they do its the means of securing the actual axles that is different. 8 1/4" uses C clips.
Andrew
Click to expand...

i learned something then! i have never been into an 8 1/4. we try to avoid anything with a c-clip in the rockcrawling world,they suck,but on the street i guess they would survive.
i am going to be in the process of putting mustang gt rear disk on my 8 3/4. i am going to swap my B -body rear in my duster and do the brakes at the same time i hope it works out!
 
hellion_locdogg said:
Hey man do you have a list of lengths by years? I want to do this swap for my '63, it's got a 7 1/4.

,Cliff
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stolen from Dakota_Don...
7 ¼
Junk…read no more. Introduced in 1960; it was a low performance axle for /6 and small V8 cars. Before you swap this unit out put some slicks on your car..rev up the engine good and launch real hard a few dozen times. Or street race your car for a night or two, or objective here is to blow it up.
The rear end will eventually go KABOOM. Lots of fun for all….bring a tow strap so you can get home. Casting numbers # 2070051, 3507881, 3723675
Info: 1 3/8" Pinion stem, 9 bolt cover, 55.6" width (flange to flange) / 53.2" housing flange to flange / 43.02" spring seat center to center.
SPECIAL NOTE: The 7 ¼ housing axle tubes are smaller in diameter than other units so the u-bolts and spring plates are useless if converting to a larger axle (i.e. 7 1/4 to 8 1/4, 8 3/4 or bigger).
8 ¼
Introduced in 1969. This rear end will be found in all Darts / Valients from 73 - 76 and also can be found in 340 Dusters and other A bodies. There is a sure -grip available beginning in 1973. This axle while not a real high performance piece is certainly good enough for a mild street car. So if you go for a disk brake swap and are pulling out those spindles etc. out of your 73-76 donor car just grab the rear and you will have a nice 4.5" wheel pattern all around and way better brakes to boot. Sure-grip units are commonly found in Diplomat cop cars throughout the 80's but that rear end is a bit harder to install than the 73 -76 due to the strange leaf spring mounting pads. These pads can be cut off the axle and replaced with more conventional ones if you wish. If your short on cash and you can't afford to get a 8 ¾ or find the time to locate the long 8 ¾ axles for re-splining the 8 1/4 is a real nice alternative for a while and CHEAP in the yards ($50.00 non sure-grip and $125.00 sure-grip here in Texas). You may never blow up the 8 1/4 with a mild small block street car.
Castings: 2852905, 3723598, 3723599
Info: 1 5/8 pinion, 57.6" wide, 10 bolt cover, 55.6" width (flange to flange) / 51.4 housing flange to flange / 43.02 spring seat center to center.

still acquiring the 8¼ specs...
 
Wow MT thanks man, tons of good info there. No way to stay with sbp though which sucks because I just did the sbp KH front disks. I guess I'll have to hope the 7 1/4 stays together.

,Cliff
 
hellion_locdogg said:
Wow MT thanks man, tons of good info there. No way to stay with sbp though which sucks because I just did the sbp KH front disks. I guess I'll have to hope the 7 1/4 stays together.

,Cliff
Click to expand...

all stock a-body 8 3/4 axles have the small bolt pattern, but if you are going rear disc, you will probably have to go with big bolt pattern.
 
Can the rotors be redrilled for the small bolt pattern? Or is this a big no no?
Would the disc brake setup even fit in a 14 inch rim?

I thought about putting Jeep dic brakes on an 8 1/4 axle for a while, or using a Jeep Liberty 8 1/4 with disc brakes. But I wanted to keep the small bolt pattern and didn't know if it could be made to work.
 
If you're keeping the small bolt pattern AND the 14 inch wheels, you probably wouldn't get much benefit from rear discs anyway. Sure, it's a cool factor, but a well done 10" drum on the back will serve you just as well.....
 
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