A-904 Throttle Pressure Adjustment

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bwhitejr

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What is the procedure for throttle pressure adjustment on an A-904? There is a screw with a stop on it to set the depth of the kickdown valve and its relation to the throttle cam. How is it set?

bwhitejr
 
Engine off,remove air cleaner and pull and hold throttle to the floor after removing the kick down linkage.Push linkage all the way back so the linkage adjustment rod can slide on and off the throttle rod with about 1/16 clearance,let go of throttle and reinstall all linkage and return springs,and air cleaner.Test drive the car and make any final adjustments by screwing in or out the slotted adjustment bar as needed,Mrmopartech
 
I need the adjustment procedure for the throttle pressure screw that is mounted on the valve body of the transmission. The illustration shows a tool that acts as a spacer.

bwhitejr
 
I found another old post that stated the size of the C-3763 tool for this job is 9/16" and was hoping somebody could confirm that. I want to get that set right before I put the pan back on.

Thanks
 
I found another old post that stated the size of the C-3763 tool for this job is 9/16" and was hoping somebody could confirm that. I want to get that set right before I put the pan back on.

Thanks

I'd like to know the same info. I've seen the tool, but never knew its exact dimension.
 
Can I use the TV adjustment procedure at the following link for my stock rebuild?

http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Instructions/instructions/220000_inst.htm

Step 26 says "Insert the 1/8" drill between the kick-down valve and the throttle pressure cam and adjust the throttle stop screw until it just touches the cam." This is with the TV uncompressed. My ATSG manual says to use that special tool (spacer of unknown dimension) with the TV fully compressed.

Not knowing the specs for the special tool, can I use the Trans Scat procedure for TV adjustment on a stock rebuild instead?
 
That would be as reliable a spec as you will find, I'd use it. In fact, I copied the instructions juist so I'll have the info.
 
I chanced on a Miller copy of the tool and thought I would report back that the business end measures .632 inches. A shade over 5/8 inch which I'll be double checking the next time I drop the pan. It's been bugging me not knowing and hope the info on this dimension helps someone else in the future.
 
Sorry to hijack the thread but I am still lost. I have read a lot of posts and videos and I am still not getting it. I have a 360 with a 904 Holley 4160 and speed master air gap. I need pics of the adjustment or a video. That's just the way I learn and I don't want to mess this up. I need help with the carb end of the adjustment. I lengthened the rod with an all thread bolt. If I adjust the throttle rod so at wot it's at the end of it's travel, it gives me a lot of space at idle. If I adjust it so the throttle rod moves right away with the throttle position, I reach the end of the transmission travel before wot and therefore limits the throttle opening all the way. Help!!!
 
Sorry to hijack the thread but I am still lost. I have read a lot of posts and videos and I am still not getting it. I have a 360 with a 904 Holley 4160 and speed master air gap. I need pics of the adjustment or a video. That's just the way I learn and I don't want to mess this up. I need help with the carb end of the adjustment. I lengthened the rod with an all thread bolt. If I adjust the throttle rod so at wot it's at the end of it's travel, it gives me a lot of space at idle. If I adjust it so the throttle rod moves right away with the throttle position, I reach the end of the transmission travel before wot and therefore limits the throttle opening all the way. Help!!!


Post a pic of your setup...that way we can help you. Sounds like you need a stronger spring to return the K/D to idle position. Do you have the Mopar throttle linkage adapter on your carb?
 
Post a pic of your setup...that way we can help you. Sounds like you need a stronger spring to return the K/D to idle position. Do you have the Mopar throttle linkage adapter on your carb?
I will absolutely get pics. I just recently learned of the spring for the throttle rod. The Holley adapter 20-7 is installed
 
The exact dimensions of the Throttle Pressure Tool can be found on page 80 of Carl Monroe's 727 Transmission Handbook along with an illustration on page 81. I would post a picture, but for fear of copyright breach I will just advise.
 
IMG_3549.JPG
IMG_3550.JPG
 
Okay you don't need a video for this it's a simple understanding. your throttle cable has a long throw on it meaning the distance it travels to get the job done. your TP valve has a shorter throw on it and doesn't have to go as far to do the same job. Have cured this in the past by drilling a hole in the actual throttle lever on the carburetor and install a pin in that hole to connect your transmission linkage to, lower than the actual point where the throttle cable connects closer to the fulcrum point or the turning point of the throttle this will give a slower smaller throw for the transmission linkage.
Or do like I did and order a stage three transgo shift kit and pin that sucker back on the transmission and start shifting gears by hand bang bang bang LOL
 
Actually looking at your picture again you can connect your throttle linkage up higher and leave your transmission linkage right where it is the throws will be different. I've actually seen eyelets that fit in that bigger hole of your carburetor linkage up top.
 
Oh yeah and one more thing you definitely want to get this right or you'll burn your transmission up a lot quicker than it should
 
Oh yeah and one more thing you definitely want to get this right or you'll burn your transmission up a lot quicker than it should

In other words his geometry is jacked. :D
It needs the mounting point to the throttle lever moved to a location that allows full forward at idle and full open at WOT.

But you know that. :D
That's why I made this adapter even though I have a TP cable, because it allows geometry changes due to the slot where the cable connects.

SANY0010.JPG
 
That's kind of cool:thumbsup:
In other words his geometry is jacked. :D
It needs the mounting point to the throttle lever moved to a location that allows full forward at idle and full open at WOT.

But you know that. :D
That's why I made this adapter even though I have a TP cable, because it allows geometry changes due to the slot where the cable connects.

View attachment 1715060659
 
That's kind of cool:thumbsup:

The reaction from people that see it and know what it does is kinda cool too.:D
I get asked where I got it a lot, and tell them "from the bottom of a 14 inch frying pan".
That's really where it's from.
It also allows two return springs(one pulling forward and one at the bottom pulling back.
This keeps one spring from wearing on the rod bore like one spring does.
 
Making something cool and functional out of an old piece of scrap metal is my #1 favorite part of my hobby.

The reaction from people that see it and know what it does is kinda cool too.:D
I get asked where I got it a lot, and tell them "from the bottom of a 14 inch frying pan".
That's really where it's from.
It also allows two return springs(one pulling forward and one at the bottom pulling back.
This keeps one spring from wearing on the rod bore like one spring does.
 
Making something cool and functional out of an old piece of scrap metal is my #1 favorite part of my hobby.

Making something more functional that the OE part out of scrap is mine. :D
That and building something completely unique that works as well or better.

newface.jpg
 
Actually I also found out that the trans linkage wasn't all the way forward and was hung up on the bulkhead harness connector
 
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