A Baffling Early A-833 Question...

Early A-Body Discussions

  1. eekvonzipper

    eekvonzipper My Member is Legendary! FABO Gold Member

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    I'm building a 1965 B&T 4-Speed and I'm looking in the Tailshaft wondering if there is supposed to be a baffle in there at the top to keep the Fluid from Slinging out of the Vent on top. Am I missing a piece? or did the 1965 Ball & Trunnion Style not get one?

    housing.jpg

    vent.jpg
     
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    • moparmat2000

      moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Contact Brewers or Passon
       
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      • Keith Mopar

        Keith Mopar Mopar Nut

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        I did not have a baffle in my 65 B&T trans, I did get some very small vapors that did cause a tiny bit of seepage of fluid but not enough to say it would splash out. I got the car in pieces and the trans was partially disassembled when I got it, but never thought it should have baffle.
         
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        • Jimmie440

          Jimmie440 New Member

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          Not sure. Can you answer this please.

          Can I use an A body 4 speed in a B body car?

          What do I need to do?

          Thank you.
           
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          • RustyRatRod

            RustyRatRod Lemmie see your b00bs. FABO Gold Member

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            Start a separate thread. That's what you need to do.
             
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            • eekvonzipper

              eekvonzipper My Member is Legendary! FABO Gold Member

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              Reverse and Cluster in... Here We Go!
              got a Beautiful set o' gears for this...

              cluster in.jpg

              gears.jpg
               
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              • scott657

                scott657 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                after having gone through a 727 over the summer, that just looks so wonderfully simple
                 
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                • AJ/FormS

                  AJ/FormS 68 B'cuda fb, Form S clone ... 367/A833/3.55s

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                  I have rebuilt several hundred of those A833s. Most had the baffle but not all.
                  I'd have to say that most of those that I built were Big Speed-O gear, boxes, 67 up if memory serves me; so that might have something to do with it.IDK
                   
                • AJ/FormS

                  AJ/FormS 68 B'cuda fb, Form S clone ... 367/A833/3.55s

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                  I hope you have better luck than me, getting the loaded M/S in with the cluster already pinned, and still having all the rollers in the back of the input gear where they belong.
                   
                • eekvonzipper

                  eekvonzipper My Member is Legendary! FABO Gold Member

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                  do you pull the Cluster up after the m/s is in?
                   
                • mcodecuda

                  mcodecuda Senior Member

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                  The 64 parts book does not show a baffle but I’ll check the service manual and my disassembled B&T transmission and report back later today.
                   
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                  • AJ/FormS

                    AJ/FormS 68 B'cuda fb, Form S clone ... 367/A833/3.55s

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                    yes, but
                    I install the loaded M/S into the tail; and the input HAS to go into the case first and be slid as far forward out of the case as it will go.
                    My workbench has a hole big enough to receive a 308 bearing, and at this point, I tip the case over and drop the loaded input into it. And drop the brass ring onto the input.
                    Next I "glue" the rear gasket onto the case with light grease, and then drop the loaded tail down into the input, indexing the brass to the struts, and making sure not to dislodge any rollers in the input..
                    When I do this, I install the tail upside down, which is to say, 180* out of correct. This usually leaves enough room to drop the clusterpin down into the lifted cluster. But not always! So I always clearance the tail before anything goes together.
                    After the pin is in, I rotate the tail into position, and install one bolt finger-tight; then recheck that the front brass is still correctly indexed to the struts. If yes, then the remaining bolts go in, tight
                    Now comes the tricky part;
                    I lift the trans straight up, until the input comes out of the hole in my bench, and push it up until it stops on the snapring, then lay the trans over. This is tricky because that darn trans is heavy, and I only have one arm available, cuz the other is gonna push the input up. So because my last name is not Hercules, I crush the trans against my chest, and lift it with my legs. The whole point of this exercise is to guarantee that the rollers in the back of the input, stay in their proper orientation. If the hole in your bench is big enough to receive the retainer, or if you have mounted the case on an engine stand, then just install the retainer instead.
                    There is a cavity in the back of the input, than can actually receive two rollers , so I am perhaps overly cautious to make sure that does not happen.

                    The factory MOPAR snapring on the input bearing, is thinner than the one that comes with a new bearing. Do not use that fat snapring; I have never tried to, but my guess is that if you did, you would break the retainer. And if it doesn't, then it will for sure leak.

                    There is a way to do it your way, but I have not had much success with it, unless you can install the input after the loaded M/S is in, like on a Saginaw, or a Ford. On the 307 bearinged A833, I usually end up exploding the front synchronizer assy and having to start all over.

                    Ok so best of luck to you.
                     
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                    • mcodecuda

                      mcodecuda Senior Member

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                      The baffle is not in the 64 service manual but it’s in the 66 manual. I’m thinking it has something to do with the location of the vent. The vent on the 64 with (no baffle) is located at around the 10:30 location when looking from the rear of the tail shaft housing and on the 66 and up transmissions (with vent) the vent is in the 12:00 location
                       
                    • Hyper_pak

                      Hyper_pak Old School Chrysler Fan

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                      The B&T does not create the pressure that a slip yoke can and does.
                      66 was the first slip yoke and the baffle was used.
                      The case is sol-ved to quote Inspector Clouseau.
                       
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                      • LO23M8B

                        LO23M8B Well-Known Member

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                        Hi there, Wondering if anyone knows can you get rid of the B&T on a 65 trans and go to the slip yoke?
                         
                      • eekvonzipper

                        eekvonzipper My Member is Legendary! FABO Gold Member

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                        Yeah, it requires a rebuild with a new Mainshaft and a Tailshaft. Nothin' wrong with a B&T tho...
                         
                      • LO23M8B

                        LO23M8B Well-Known Member

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                        I'll be making about 450+ hp I just don't know if it will hold up to it. And slicks.
                         
                      • eekvonzipper

                        eekvonzipper My Member is Legendary! FABO Gold Member

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                        You could leave the trans and do a
                        Ball and trunnion to u-joint conversion...

                        b n t.jpg
                         
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                        • LO23M8B

                          LO23M8B Well-Known Member

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                          Where would you buy this?
                           
                        • 67Dart273

                          67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                          I would think there is not a "tremendous" amount of fluid sling in that area. The rest of the box is separated by the big ball bearing, and other than the speedo, there's not much to stir things up in there
                           
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                          • 67Dart273

                            67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                            AND NOW YET ANOTHER ANNOYING STORY from the old days

                            In the mid 70's after I got out of the Navy, I had a friend who was swapping a Chev SB into an early Bronco, with a Ferd top loader. So there were lots of aftermarket parts and swappin' goin on

                            He gets it all together, and it won't move. The END of the story is he had the wrong clutch disk spine, it was way bigger than the Ford top loader.

                            So I'm down there, and we are fighting try to see into the scattershield and checking the TO and linkage, and at some point we ended up with the top off the "top loader." Can you see this coming?

                            Pushes in the clutch starts it up, and lets out the clutch. I never saw so much 90W "all over hell" in my life
                             
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                            • trapster

                              trapster Well-Known Member

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                              You may also have a problem getting a gear that will make your speedometer work.
                               
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