A question of originality

Brakes for your Classic Mopar

  1. Captainkirk

    Captainkirk Old School Mopar Warrior

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    Hey all, getting set to start ordering parts for my project, '72 340 Duster. Car has been off the road for decades. I'm planning on doing the rear diff (8.75) soon and wondering about brake parts. Classic Industries has most of the stuff I need such as brake linings, brake cylinders, spring and hardware kits, etc. Do most of you just buy new and install, or do you only replace what's bad to keep as much original on the car as possible? Example; rear drums. The old ones are rusty and probably need media blasting and turning. Local shop will turn rear drums and front discs for $25.00 each, and media blast for $25.00 each as well. Classic has new replacement drums for $30.00 each...it would be cheaper to buy new, slap on some paint and go. Same for hardware kit...new for 6 bucks. Seems like a no-brainer to start out with new, fresh components. But that means not reusing and rebuilding the original stuff. Same goes for rear brake cylinders...new for 20 bucks apiece, or rebuild the old ones? Already planning on using new stainless lines and such. Just not sure which direction to go here. Any suggestions?
     
  2. 70aarcuda

    70aarcuda Master Hoader of SBM FABO Gold Member

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    Drum wear out and can only be cut s many times......just like a lot of parts on the car...
    Replace the parts as needed......certainly brakes that are a safety issue...

    I crashed my car cause I could not stop...but hell...I had the original drums on it...lol
     
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    • Bodyperson

      Bodyperson Pedal to the metal

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      I'm beginning to think that all NEW brake drums and rotors should be turned.
       
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      • 72bluNblu

        72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        Depends. If you’re building a trailer queen show car that’s barely going to see any miles then you want as much original stuff as possible. That assumes of course that the drums weren’t replaced a handful of times already and aren’t original anyway. Got to check castings if you’re really worried about originality.

        If you’re actually going to DRIVE it, then buy new parts. Brakes wear out and they’re safety items. So you turn the original drums and drive it (like you should because it’s a car!) they wear out and you can’t turn them again, they’re junk. Better to run reproduction stuff if you’re actually going to use it. If you’re worried about the original stuff, save it.

        Otherwise I’m with 70aarcuda, having original, wearable safety items isn’t a good plan for the street and won’t matter when the car is wrapped around a tree.
         
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        • Captainkirk

          Captainkirk Old School Mopar Warrior

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          Thanks. Kinda the way I've been leaning. Planning on driving it like I stole it, so...
           
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          • 67dartgtgo

            67dartgtgo FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            New when it comes to brake stuff. Cheap enough. Same stuff just new.....unless you upgrade. Jmho...and what I do myself.
             
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            • Dana67Dart

              Dana67Dart Like a fine wine, only getting better with age! FABO Gold Member

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              Regardless of what you do, don't toss out the old stuff. Some times the new stuff is not completely correct or compatable.

              Also many folks would pay you a few bucks for the parts, think about the parts rustyratrod, of is it ratrodal, I get so confused sometimes, sell.
               
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              • volunteer

                volunteer Well-Known Member

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                Some OEM parts are worth rebuilding or reconditioning or refurbishing - whatever you wish to call it, but any part of brake system can definitely be replaced without fear of compromising originality. But I would suggest to shop around. C.I. not always best deals. Try R.A. or Parts Geek, etc. If master cyl. questionable, replace it with new or rebuilt part as it will be dependable and safe and totally look like original - not some silly 'upgrade' to eighties style aluminum unit. Another example is steering components. Common-sense says to replace only what's necessary but everything can be totally stripped and detailed. Tight ball joints and tie-rods need only cleaning, new boots and good grease. Engine? As much 'numbers' stuff as possible, for sure, including manifolds and (T.Q. - 6139) carb, plus electronic dist. If changing intake and/or exhaust, suggest save original stuff (unless already gone).
                My own belief is that a 'trailer queen' car more likely to have all new parts - since they mostly go to shows and have to 'sparkle' inside, outside and underneath. A 'daily driver' can look just as good and cost less $ to get that way and be totally safe and reliable. Most of us don't have deep pockets (like clients of Graveyard Carz), but we do make up for it by having extra time, patience, hidden talents and ingenuity. Suggest factory service manuals and resto books but not on-line video tutorials - as the latter full of very bad ideas and repair procedures. Take your time, make it safe and have fun driving it (yes, like you stole it).
                 
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                • 70dart340

                  70dart340 Well-Known Member

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                  I'm subscribed. I have an original, numbers matching 70 Swinger 340. I rebuilt the original, numbers matching 340, with all the correct parts, including the carb, distributor, and even the AC compressor. I shrink wrapped it, and put it in the corner. I'm building a 408 with modern components, including a Sniper EFI. I scored an A body 8 3/4 rear years ago, and i plan on taking my # matching rear out and rebuilding my replacement with a SG and rear disc brakes. I want modern performance with all the modern safety equipment, and keeping my # matching parts, with the build sheet, put away incase whoever inherits the car can restore it to the build sheet. The brake system is a big part of this, especially with the SBP pattern. I'm watching this one closely.
                   
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                  • halifaxhops

                    halifaxhops It's going to get stupid around here! FABO Gold Member

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                    • mad dog

                      mad dog Well-Known Member

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                      good advice, call Craig at mobilparts... he will take great care of you...Rich
                       
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                      • Captainkirk

                        Captainkirk Old School Mopar Warrior

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                        Great advise! I will probably keep the original parts based on this thought and store them, as-is, so that anyone in the future wanting to restore the car to original condition can do so if they choose, while allowing me to get the best performance and handling right now, while I'm still young enough (in my mind) to go rip up the blacktop. Anyone who has read my resto thread knows what a long, strange trip it's been. I'm already behind the game by not having a numbers-matching engine in this car, but I'm building the engine I want. Same should go for brakes and suspension, from my point of view. I just want to keep as much original as I can, but not at the sake of performance or safety. It's always helpful to get the opinions of others before jumping off the proverbial cliff and doing something I may regret down the road.
                         
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                        • volunteer

                          volunteer Well-Known Member

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                          Good attitude, however, be aware that there are stiff penalties against anyone caught ripping up the blacktop - unlike 40 + years ago when no cops, no radar, no security cams and, especially, no 'smartphones'. Today it's more about having a noticeable old vehicle, cruising with a nice grin and waving back to the hordes of people giving you a 'thumbs-up'. :steering: My old Signet gets plenty of :thumbsup: - while Challenger sits in storage - partly due to insurance and fuel costs.
                           
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                          • Captainkirk

                            Captainkirk Old School Mopar Warrior

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                            Let's just say there are times...and places...where one can let the dogs out for a good run now and again...I managed to discover quite a number of them with my motorcycles.
                            :lol:
                            Barring that, there's always the track, though I've never been a racer. More of a street hooligan.:poke: And an aging one at that.:steering:
                             
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                            • 67Dart273

                              67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                              Drums are especially troubling because many are not available anymore. When you turn a drum, you of course make it larger. But the shoes are designed for a specific diameter, so when you use shoes in an oversize drum, not all the lining makes contact, and the center of the shoe has to work harder, which will glaze it and vastly reduce effectiveness. "Back in the day" you could have shoes arced, or in some cases shims intalled between lining and shoe. "Good luck" finding anyone with either capability.

                              Like this:
                              Drum Brakes
                              drumbrake9.jpg

                              Arcing machine:

                              Corvette%2520Brakes%25208-28-13%2520009.jpg

                              Ends up like this:

                              drumbrake10.jpg

                              [​IMG]
                               
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                              • Captainkirk

                                Captainkirk Old School Mopar Warrior

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                                Classic Industries offers new 10" A body drums cheaper than I can get mine media blasted and turned.
                                 
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                                • dadsbee

                                  dadsbee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                  Brake and Equipment in MN still does this and will rebuild your OE wheel cylinders and master cylinders to like new. Not cheap.. but they're there if you need them.
                                   
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                                  • 70dart340

                                    70dart340 Well-Known Member

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                                    I've watched your thread on and off over the years. I bought my car because it was a rust free, true 340 H code car. I planned on mini-tubs, a reverse pattern shifter, and a hairy small block. On hearing rumors about where to look for the build sheet, I pulled up the back seat, and Bingo! It was a desert car, so the build sheet was in excellent condition, all numbers visible. That changed everything. I'm hot rodding it, but it has to appear stock, and any changes must be able to return to stock without any cutting or welding. If you think you're too old to rip up the black top, then sell the car I'm 63 in April, and I'm looking forward to watching the tach through my bifocals!
                                     
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                                    • halifaxhops

                                      halifaxhops It's going to get stupid around here! FABO Gold Member

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                                      I hope Craig chimes in there are issues with the new shoe materials eating up the new drums. He was telling me about it last time we met.
                                      @mobileparts
                                       
                                    • Demonracer

                                      Demonracer 71 Demon 00 Ram 16 Chrysler 300S 05 Caravan FABO Gold Member

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                                      I would have any drum or rotor checked, new. or used for run out. You have no idea who handled the new ones, or how they were handled before they got to you. Who knows, they may have had a 400 pound gorilla bouncing them off walls before they made the first stop in the transition to you.
                                       
                                    • halifaxhops

                                      halifaxhops It's going to get stupid around here! FABO Gold Member

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                                      I just got two nos drums for the cuda nad checked them on my friends brake lathe, they were way out of round. We always did that with new ones in the day.
                                       
                                    • Captainkirk

                                      Captainkirk Old School Mopar Warrior

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                                      No, I don't think I'm too old...that's why I'm building the motor!:lol:

                                      I'm the same age as you, BTW.:poke:


                                      I have the same idea about my H car. I don't want to mess up the originality (much)
                                       
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                                      • cudamark

                                        cudamark FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                        Internal brake drum parts....who's going to see them once installed anyway?
                                         
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                                        • Krooser

                                          Krooser Reform School Graduate

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                                          Most brake parts today are from Two Can Chew industries....
                                           
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                                          • SIX225

                                            SIX225 Well-Known Member

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                                            I know this sounds like a fairly original car, but now might be the time to consider upgrading to bbp disks if you're going to drive it. Probably wont cost that much more if you're into replacing some front end parts anyways. Opens up opportunity for better brakes, rims, parts availability. I know, project creep. Sometime just need to get these cars back on the road.
                                             
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