A500/A518 Cars, OD and L/U on a toggle or auto?

How to operate Overdrive and Lock Up switch?

  • Toggle/rocker switches for both

    Votes: 4 44.4%
  • PATC Conversion kit

    Votes: 4 44.4%
  • Auto for the overdrive, lock up on a switch

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Switched OD and L/U, with additional brake light switch disconnect

    Votes: 1 11.1%

  • Total voters
    9
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jrlegacy23

68 Barracuda
Joined
Jun 27, 2006
Messages
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Location
Laurens, NY
I am in the process of doing an A518 swap in my 68 Barracuda. For the guys running a similar set up, do you have toggle switches for the overdrive and lockup? Or do you run an automatic OD and L/U set up?
Which do you prefer and and why? I am looking at a PATC kit (link below), or running rocker switches.

PATC 727 to 518 / 46RH Conversion Kit. Click here for 727 to 46RH swap wiring diagram

IMG_0750.jpg
 
As you know, I'm setting up mine right now. I went with rocker switches just for simplicity.
I figure that will work fine for my driving style. I'm on the highway a lot, and just a little around town so I'll just drive it like a 3 speed in town, and flip the overdrive on when I hit the highway. I don't feel the need to have the overdrive kicking on when i'm driving "in town" kinda speeds 30 - 40, and I don't mind flipping a switch when I want it.
Mounted the switches in my console right behind the shifter, within easy reach. I was just setting up all my wiring today, for the lights in the switches and got my wires ran from the trans up into my console for the od - kd functions. Hoping to plug it all together tomorrow.

IMG_20200105_190700368.jpg
 
When I first did mine I ran simple toggle switches, then I made my own kit like the one above, I didn't need a vacuum switch because I used an output from my sniper injection to help control it. I then switched to the Compushift Mini. It works well in my application because I am running sniper injection and already had a TPS of course.

COMPUSHIFT Mini Converter Lock-Up Controller to suit Chrysler

Garth
 
When I first did mine I ran simple toggle switches, then I made my own kit like the one above, I didn't need a vacuum switch because I used an output from my sniper injection to help control it. I then switched to the Compushift Mini. It works well in my application because I am running sniper injection and already had a TPS of course.

COMPUSHIFT Mini Converter Lock-Up Controller to suit Chrysler

Garth

How hard was the Compushift to set up?
 
How hard was the Compushift to set up?

Well, I have my A500/42rh swap up and running. Like the switches and the location is right where my hand lands if I lay my hand down on the console.
Overdrive is working great, cruising at 3000 rpm, flip the switch and rpm drops to like 2100. Love it, but not having so much luck with the converter lockup. The first time I tried it I swear I felt it and got a small drop I'm rpm, but it has not worked since so I'll have to figure out what's going on there.
But love the O/D.
 
I would not count out those switches being the problem on that lock up either. I have had them heat up and stop working for 10 seconds or so.
 
It was pretty easy to hook up for me. Set up is through your phone via Bluetooth. Pretty cool actually and you can change or adjust it anytime.

What I have I guess is the Conpushift Mini II actually. I don't know if they sell the old model anymore. Here is the setup and instructions.

https://hgmelectronics1.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/CM2M/overview

have a look through, It will give you a good idea on setup.


Garth
 
I
I would not count out those switches being the problem on that lock up either. I have had them heat up and stop working for 10 seconds or so.
I'm not going to rule out the switch, but in this application, the only power going through this switch is for the lights in the switch. For the actual OD or Lockup function all I'm doing is using the switch to ground the wire coming from the trans. So I don't think the switch could overheat, but I guess it could be a bad switch. I have a basic toggle switch somewhere, I could just swap my wires onto that and try it, if it works then my rocker switch would be confirmed bad, if nothing changes, then my problem would be somewhere else.
 
Well, I have my A500/42rh swap up and running. Like the switches and the location is right where my hand lands if I lay my hand down on the console.
Overdrive is working great, cruising at 3000 rpm, flip the switch and rpm drops to like 2100. Love it, but not having so much luck with the converter lockup. The first time I tried it I swear I felt it and got a small drop I'm rpm, but it has not worked since so I'll have to figure out what's going on there.
But love the O/D.

What rear gears and tire size?
 
As you know, I'm setting up mine right now. I went with rocker switches just for simplicity.
I figure that will work fine for my driving style. I'm on the highway a lot, and just a little around town so I'll just drive it like a 3 speed in town, and flip the overdrive on when I hit the highway. I don't feel the need to have the overdrive kicking on when i'm driving "in town" kinda speeds 30 - 40, and I don't mind flipping a switch when I want it.
Mounted the switches in my console right behind the shifter, within easy reach. I was just setting up all my wiring today, for the lights in the switches and got my wires ran from the trans up into my console for the od - kd functions. Hoping to plug it all together tomorrow.

View attachment 1715454834
That's some good lookin' stuff and I really like the drink holder. @lkopaska
 
I am in the process of doing an A518 swap in my 68 Barracuda. For the guys running a similar set up, do you have toggle switches for the overdrive and lockup? Or do you run an automatic OD and L/U set up?
Which do you prefer and and why? I am looking at a PATC kit (link below), or running rocker switches.

PATC 727 to 518 / 46RH Conversion Kit. Click here for 727 to 46RH swap wiring diagram

View attachment 1715454712

I built a kit like the one you posted except the pressure switches I used are adjustable for when they switch.
If my two toggles are both on the trans shifts up and down fully auto.
Or I can shut either or both off manually.



Well, I have my A500/42rh swap up and running. Like the switches and the location is right where my hand lands if I lay my hand down on the console.
Overdrive is working great, cruising at 3000 rpm, flip the switch and rpm drops to like 2100. Love it, but not having so much luck with the converter lockup. The first time I tried it I swear I felt it and got a small drop I'm rpm, but it has not worked since so I'll have to figure out what's going on there.
But love the O/D.

The R's don't drop a lot with the lockup (300 maybe)
Don't forget to turn lockup off before you take an off ramp and come to a stop.:D

Also, dont know if you know this yet or not but OD will not come on unless you are in 3rd already since 3rd gear oil also supplies OD.
This is normal.
You can activate lockup whenever you want in any gear and any RPM though.:D

Hope lockup is just the switch, but by now I'm sure you know how to trouble shoot that.
 
Hey Y’all how’s it going?
I have a 42rh out of a Dakota. Where can I find a wiring diagram that shows what all the wires are?
Round plug with 3 pins &
Oval plug with 3 pins
Thanks in advance
 
I see the link to the kit above has a wiring diagram for the 3 PM round connector, I didn’t notice it said wiring diagram before. But I’m still curious about the oval three pin connector.
 
I see the link to the kit above has a wiring diagram for the 3 PM round connector, I didn’t notice it said wiring diagram before. But I’m still curious about the oval three pin connector.

The center wire goes to a 12v power source that turns on with a key.

The front wire is a ground for the overdrive, only comes on when in 3rd gear. I have a toggle switch run from that wire to a ground and can flip it on when in third gear and it electronically goes into overdrive.

The rear wire is the ground for the lock up. I also run that to a separate toggle and rarely use it. I only flip it on when on the highway at 70 mph and not accelerating.

Personally I would not run them both to the same switch because I do not use the lock up often and find the car chugging a little bit when it is activated at lower speeds.
 
Thanks, any info on the oval connector with 3 smaller pins & wires?
 
That is the one I speak of, plug looks like this:
46RH-Three-Wire-Pigtail-for-727-to-46RH-Conversion.png


The round one with the three pins is just a neutral safety switch

A-5182-pinplug_zpsc18420ae.jpg


upload_2020-10-4_22-29-55.png
 
Thank you very much. I had those totally backwards. I was assuming the solenoids would have the large pins and some sorts of logic circuits would be small pans. Thank You, With wiring, I like to follow the “know before you blow” rule.
 
I just put a A518 in my 79 Warlock with the 2 pin connector non lockup convertor. Was a little chore but got it going , I wired a toggle switch to blue wire hot and orange etc wire to ground . I have no overdrive , have checked hot wire using pin ground on frame ground and it’s all good . Trans feels firm and solid , bought it out of junkyard with 65,000 miles out of a church van . Going to service and replace overdrive solenoid but I am not sure if this will cure it . Any trans guys out there that can give me some ideas , I see a lot of people put switch on ground instead of hot but I have read people do it both ways . Thanks
 
I just put a A518 in my 79 Warlock with the 2 pin connector non lockup convertor. Was a little chore but got it going , I wired a toggle switch to blue wire hot and orange etc wire to ground . I have no overdrive , have checked hot wire using pin ground on frame ground and it’s all good . Trans feels firm and solid , bought it out of junkyard with 65,000 miles out of a church van . Going to service and replace overdrive solenoid but I am not sure if this will cure it . Any trans guys out there that can give me some ideas , I see a lot of people put switch on ground instead of hot but I have read people do it both ways . Thanks

The OD solenoid would be the first thing to check for sure.
If the pan was clean (only normal crap in it) the OD unit is probably ok.
Since OD gets it’s apply fluid from the 3rd gear circuit you know thats there.
Good chance it’s the solenoid.

As far as the electrical goes I used relays to do the ground switching for the solenoids and the hot is a key switched supply.
Also used adjustable pressure switches so with my cabin switches in Auto mode it shifts 123 OD at 60 and lockup at 70 fully automatic.
When slowing lockup turns off when below 70 and OD turns off at 60 and the trans returns to 3rd.
With both switches in the cabin in the off position the trans acts just like a 904 with the low geared first.

With Nitto 245/40-18 high performance tires in the back and 3.55 rear gears it ripped a stock driveshaft in half off a light.:D
 
The OD solenoid would be the first thing to check for sure.
If the pan was clean (only normal crap in it) the OD unit is probably ok.
Since OD gets it’s apply fluid from the 3rd gear circuit you know thats there.
Good chance it’s the solenoid.

As far as the electrical goes I used relays to do the ground switching for the solenoids and the hot is a key switched supply.
Also used adjustable pressure switches so with my cabin switches in Auto mode it shifts 123 OD at 60 and lockup at 70 fully automatic.
When slowing lockup turns off when below 70 and OD turns off at 60 and the trans returns to 3rd.
With both switches in the cabin in the off position the trans acts just like a 904 with the low geared first.

With Nitto 245/40-18 high performance tires in the back and 3.55 rear gears it ripped a stock driveshaft in half off a light.:D

Yikes! I'm worried about my 245/45/17's and 4.10's! Lol. I'm almost on the road.
 
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