A833 18 spline 4 speed crash box.

[SuperStock426]

I just remembered, with the Quick Time I had to buy an extra block plate an cut the center out of it, to space the bell out enough for the swing on the counter weighted levers on the pressure plate.

Some of the error is in the block. The bellhousing gets blamed for it.

Some of the error is in the block. The bellhousing gets blamed for it.

I heard that the old Ansen bellhousings had a pretty good fit.

 

[Jeremiah (jd)]

Ihave had excellent service from my aluminum cased, face plated a833. It's much less clunky with Redline shockproof gear oil. That said, I remove it for inspection every winter. My main issue has been ball bearing skidding/galling. I modified a precision/aerospace grade 308 (front) and ordered a microblue 307 for this season. Stamdard 307 and 308 bearings are only rated to 6000RPM maximum. The higher emd units are rated to 9500RPM. I also Precision lapped the ends of the cluster gear to hopefully mitigate thrust washer wear. They were taking a beating.

I am currently running a RAM sintered 10" (Defiant) adjustable sintered iron cluth with a Browell bellhousing. My 511" low deck has 2-1/8" TTI headers. I use their modified torque shaft (z bar). It needed some tweeks for the scattershield (previously ran a QT RM-6073 & Ram Powergrip HD clutch).

My old boss from the Road racing shop back in WI called a few weeks ago. He's 72 and starting to clean out the shop. He saved me a G Force 101a with four gear sets and extra cases, shifters etc. Luckily the Browell is drill for a 101a too : D

I'll always run a clutch tamer. I'm pretty aure that is the only reason my a833 has held up.

 

[SuperStock426]

Ihave had excellent service from my aluminum cased, face plated a833. It's much less clunky with Redline shockproof gear oil. That said, I remove it for inspection every winter. My main issue has been ball bearing skidding/galling. I modified a precision/aerospace grade 308 (front) and ordered a microblue 307 for this season. Stamdard 307 and 308 bearings are only rated to 6000RPM maximum. The higher emd units are rated to 9500RPM. I also Precision lapped the ends of the cluster gear to hopefully mitigate thrust washer wear. They were taking a beating.

I am currently running a RAM sintered 10" (Defiant) adjustable sintered iron cluth with a Browell bellhousing. My 511" low deck has 2-1/8" TTI headers. I use their modified torque shaft (z bar). It needed some tweeks for the scattershield (previously ran a QT RM-6073 & Ram Powergrip HD clutch).

My old boss from the Road racing shop back in WI called a few weeks ago. He's 72 and starting to clean out the shop. He saved me a G Force 101a with four gear sets and extra cases, shifters etc. Luckily the Browell is drill for a 101a too : D

I'll always run a clutch tamer. I'm pretty aure that is the only reason my a833 has held up.

View attachment 1716412972

View attachment 1716412973

How did that Browell bellhousing fit?

 

[Jeremiah (jd)]

How did that Browell bellhousing fit?

It fits excellent. I had to trim the flanges on both sides. Passenger side for the header primary tubes and driver side to clear the clutch linkage. Prepare for sticker shock : D

 

[SuperStock426]

It fits excellent. I had to trim the flanges on both sides. Passenger side for the header primary tubes and driver side to clear the clutch linkage. Prepare for sticker shock : D

It fits excellent. I had to trim the flanges on both sides. Passenger side for the header primary tubes and driver side to clear the clutch linkage. Prepare for sticker shock : D

That's the whole issue with building a car today. These manufacturers have priced it out of reach for a lot of people. I remember the days when you could buy a Duster, Dart etc out of someone's yard for a couple of hundred dollars go to the junk yard and buy a 440, 340 or whatever for 50-75 bucks and maybe spend 1500 on the engine and have a hot rod. I've talked to numerous people that say they've priced it out of range for them to afford it. It's amazing how a few years can change everything.

 

[Jeremiah (jd)]

That's the whole issue with building a car today. These manufacturers have priced it out of reach for a lot of people. I remember the days when you could buy a Duster, Dart etc out of someone's yard for a couple of hundred dollars go to the junk yard and buy a 440, 340 or whatever for 50-75 bucks and maybe spend 1500 on the engine and have a hot rod. I've talked to numerous people that say they've priced it out of range for them to afford it. It's amazing how a few years can change everything.

I hear you around here we don't call them hundreds anymore we call them big tens. Due to the fact that I don't use any money from my day job for my car hobby I have to run a shop on the side and flip cars to make the race car thing happen. I priced a drum of 110 a while back and it was over 700 for a 55. I'd switch to E85 or e98 but it is corrosive and after seeing what has done to some of my friends fuel systems I'm skeptical. In some aspects you guys sure had it good back in the day. My uncle came home pretty messed up from the Vietnam War so that always sticks in my mind when I think about the grass being greener on the other side.

It just comes down to being creative and not shying away from hard work to get it done these days.

It took me 2 years to save up for the bellhousing and the trick clutch. Then it took me two more years to save up for the S60 new wheels and tires and a roll bar kit. My non-gearhead friends think I am insane LOL. They all like to go to places like Hawaii and Belize on vacation every year but I don't do any of that gold chainer ****.

 

[SuperStock426]

I'm 57 years old and grew up in the 70's and 80's. Born in 68, that was a good year, 68 Hemi Dart and Barracudas..lol....But yes it seems that a lot of things were a lot more affordable back then.

 

[Ironmike]

Grind every other tooth off the synchros and put them back in the with dogs and springs.

It will drive like stocker and shift exactly like it’s Slick Shifted.

There is no sense in driving on the street, holding it in gear, blipping the throttle downshifts and **** like that.

So how exactly does a slick shift shift?

 

[Dave999]

can't tell if you are asking how it feels to shift, or what is it or what does it do when shifting

this is how it was explained to me.... maybe using wrong terms but at least along the right lines. hard to picture until you pull a transmission apart, at which point you will amazed that anyone ever got from A to B its kinda brutal in there.

think of a picket fence
you drive past it at 10mph you have a good chance of sticking a pool cue through the fence
drive past at 100mph and the chances are greatly reduced
if you took out 50% of the fence planks the gaps are bigger
at 100MPH you chances of launching your pool cue through a gap is again increased

in a trans, your gears have teeth on them purely for use with the synchro hub and syncro to allow you to slow the gear and eventually lock the trans into a specific gear. The teeth lock up with the synchro as you change gear. you have to mesh two sets of teeth together to be in gear...


apply the same idea
low rpm pool cue through fence, lots of teeth, lots of gaps, low rpm, easy to mesh.
higher rpm shift, harder to do, the chances of a tooth bouncing off tooth rather than fitting into gap is greater
remove some of the fence to make it easier again. Grind off every other tooth to make the gaps bigger.. easier to aim a single tooth at a space 2 teeth wide than one, bigger gaps easier to hit a space.

basically a modification to ease shifting at rpms way above the normally accepted use for the transmission...i.e going on a fishing tip or to the shops.

face plate gets rid of these teeth in total and replaces the set up with a flat plate with 6 or 8 gaps locking into a flat plate with 6 or 8 gaps... they slide over and lock in akin to a big tooth but even bigger gaps. bit clunky but works

in this case you basically threw most of the fence away you just have a few mighty bollards or fence posts left.

Your input shaft drives the countershaft that rotates all of the gears on the main shaft all the time . you need to slide a synchro hub and lock one of the gears to the main shaft to be in gear. so to do that each gear you choose to be IN needs to be slowed or sped up to the speed of the main shaft so it can slide and lock. a synchro is like clutch it slows the gear to the same speed as the synchro hub which is splined to the main shaft and then you can lock teeth between it and the gear.. locking the gear to the main shaft instead of allowing it to partially free wheel meshed with the cluster like all the rest that are not in use

its all about the meshing of tiny tapered teeth

dave

 

[66Valiant528]

Just a couple of reminders for you....if you are planning on racing your car faster than 11.8 I think, be aware that you will need to ship your McLeod soft locker assembly with flywheel to them every 2 years for recertification. Im in Massachusetts and it costs me 300 bucks freight round trip to south Cali. And when they get it they will probably recommend a rebuild. This usually costs about 700. My Browell bell is now a 5 year recertification but again shipping that heavy piece is about 200 round trip to Lafayette Indiana plus the recertification fee ,I think 125 for 5 years. If I weren't committed to the soft locker I'd have gone with a Ram because they are on the east coast and freight would be less. Just something to consider when picking a set up.