A833 O/D Cover/Access-plate installation

[greymouser7]

When we are installing the cover plate onto the transmission (final assembly) how do we know that we have aligned the back shift fork {correctly}into the spring scizzor retainers? ( The two scissor like, spring loaded see-saw plate/bar pieces of metal which hold pressure against the back shift fork top)(also those bar’s pivot & attach point is on the back or inside of the cover plate-sorry my description is ignorant)

Does brewers sell the plastic ?speedo? Gear piece for that giant hole in the back bottom of the transmission?

Why do most of the ?brass? ?synchro? Rings provided from multiple rebuild kits have wide slots when I need the narrow slots (insert dirty humor here)?

THANKS BROTHERS and Rainy, hope that the FABO people are doing well.

 

[AJ/FormS]

The Struts HAVE to match the brass!
The pre71 transmissions had the solid metal narrow struts with matching narrow-slot brass. The 71 and later had the lightweight hollow tin struts and matching wide-slot brass.
Your cover is a 71 Up Scissor style.
To install the cover;
The reverse lever has to be installed into the case before the cluster goes in.
To install that cover lube the O-rings with Silicon grease, then install both of them into the cover. Put the trans in neutral. Install the 3-4 fork into the scissor with both blades on the pin. Install the 1-2 fork into the slider groove of the 1-2 synchronizer. Install the gasket onto the cover with a few dabs of grease to hold it.
Now the tricky part;
You have to drop the loaded cover into position while simultaneously indexing the 1-2 fork into the scissor. It's not that hard, but just tricky, and I recommend a couple of dry-runs without the gasket, to get the hang of it.
Sometimes I have to put both the trans and cover into Third gear. However you do it, ONE fork has to be already engaged with BOTH scissors.
After the cover is in position, go find the two bolts with long shoulders and install them in the deep holes that run at about the horizontal center-line of the cover. Run them down finger tight, then push the cover hard up and tighten them. Now try to shift the trans into reverse.
If it goes easy, you are in business, loosen the bolts and install the rest, without cutting the gasket. The three bolts near the reverse lever have no shoulders,but do have split washers; the rest are short shoulders, and I don't remember any washers on those. Then, once again, push the cover hard up while tightening those first two bolts, check reverse and if it still goes in then you can tighten them all.
Now, in the event that reverse binds and will not in-shift, or does so only with great difficulty, then you may have the wrong reverse lever installed. This only rarely happens and if the lever you installed is the same one that came out of it, then no sweat it should be fine.
But if not, then those levers come in two flavors, a long and a short and are coded..... but I forget which is which.

 

[rumblefish360]

It’s a PIA sometimes.
All the time for me….

 

[pomonamissel]

older setup is more trouble free . i change mine out for the early type every time .

 

[AJ/FormS]

Btw
Those synchronizers are a matched set. That is to say, all 9 parts must be used together, that is to say the hub, the slider, the two brass rings, plus the 3 struts and two springs.
I suppose you could get creative and modify the early rings to work in the late synchronizers, but ...... I've never tried it.

 

[pomonamissel]

i use the later steel forks in the early side shifter plate , i just cut off the smaller dia part of the shafts , they fit great . and wear less than the bass ones . surprised that aj/forms doesn't offer up this same modification . he's a gu ru on these a833's .

 

[AJ/FormS]

i use the later steel forks in the early side shifter plate , i just cut off the smaller dia part of the shafts , they fit great . and wear less than the bass ones . surprised that aj/forms doesn't offer up this same modification . he's a gu ru on these a833's .

Well that's because, on the street, which is all I do, if the synchros work, then the brass forks last just as long.
Besides, in my combo; with 3.55s and a 7000 shift rpm, the trans is almost always in Second gear. When I get into Third, the throttle is, of necessity, nearly closed .......... most of the time, lol.
But I must confess that I prefer the feel of the double-scissor, and IIRC, my Passon Performance side cover, is the late style, which requires the steel forks.
I know people used to say that the brass forks had a propensity to break, but since 1970 I have only ever broken one and I gotta blame that on BOTH the synchro which was not working properly anymore; and the shifter that had no stops; so who really knows.
If I was a racer, I would for sure put steel forks in, just for the peace of mind.