A855 - 5 Speed

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matthon

matthon

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I meant to post something sooner, or during the install, but stuff happens, and too much to do in one day, etc.

Received May of 2018.
Trans marked Tested 10/31/17.
Stored in my house, and I would spin it occasionally.

Arrived in a wooden crate, new 5 speed shifter installed, tail shaft capped and taped off, speedo plugged with plastic cap.
Comes with backup light switch, does not include speedo pinion adapter.

Had some fluid in it so must have been tested.

Looks fantastic, shifter is extremely nice, need to source your own shifter handle and ball.

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Parts list below, all from Summit, waited for spend x amount get x amount off sale, free shipping, can't be beat.

A few notes:
Clutch info states it doesn't come with alignment tool, but it did.
Getting the old pilot bearing out was easy: Pilot bushing, need to replace?
Paperwork with trans states to use 75W140 rated for limited slip differentials, but for some reason, not knowing much, it didn't make sense. Called Passon, a change was made, use:
 
ARP bolts.
Use the ARP torque specs included with the bolts.
The ARP ultra-torque came with the flywheel bolts.

Flywheel - 75 ft/lbs for 7/16-20 bolts, Loctite 242 on threads, ARP ultra-torque under bolt heads.

Pressure plate - 45 ft/lbs for 3/8-16 bolts, with ARP lube.
 
Installed August 10, 2019.

New poly motor and trans mount, u-joints and straps recently installed.

Used stock trans yoke but had to clean it multiple times, the bottom was packed with buildup. I actually made a tool to clean using a new toothbrush and a file handle, as well as a dental pick.

Bought rebuild parts for the clutch linkage. Had to modify my stock bellhousing spacer to make the z-bar level in all directions, notched it a little - just remembered it wouldn't stay put, lock washers didn't work, I screwed a bolt in it to get home one night and there it stayed. I want to weld it up, but it's galvanized or something, doesn't rust.

Also had to grind the end of the z-bar clutch side to clear the header.

I had the overcenter spring on with the 4 speed and Centerforce clutch, new a few years ago, but it was holding the pedal down this time around. Tried unbolting pedal assembly, but even with the carpet and pedal pad removed it didn't give enough to free the spring. A large prybar worked, somehow.

Also had to bend the rod from the pedal to the z-bar near the pedal to get a perfect movement.

Linkage works great.

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Speedometer.
Used my original speedometer pinion adapter and gear, ordered new seals from Brewers.
There is a gm, I believe, o-ring seal that fits the pinion adapter perfectly, and it has a metal ring molded in as well as a spring.
I set the stock seal down in the pinion where it sits, and put the other one on top.
Seals better and supports the speedo gear better too.

I got it off ebag, cheapest by far and fastest shipping.

YOU MUST INSTALL THE SPEEDOMETER CABLE BEFORE INSTALLING THE TRANS.

I hope that is clear. I 'messaged' the floor as well as there is literally no space for the cable to even exist there without more space.
The cable has a straight metal section at the base, so it can't immediately make a right turn, Clyde.
In the future, I will be cutting an access panel in the floor.

My speedo cable is for a full size 67 Mopar.
67 is an odd ball year cable, screw on at both ends. I couldn't locate a 67 a-body cable, and the full size is longer, which is needed.

The 5 speed has the speedo on the top right, passenger side. I like it better as it seems it's less likely to leak, but make sure you have the speedo gear you want and new seals before installing.

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I took it for a test drive and it was fantastic, being a new trans and all.
Then it popped out of 4th.

I adjusted the shifter, the proper way, pin in it, it comes with a plastic pin but I used a steel one, set all the gears to neutral, turn the adjusters.
Adjusters are on the shifter side for 1/2 and 3/4, on the trans side for 5/R.
Checked the stops.

I put just over 200 miles on it, adjusted the shifter 2 more times, and it still pops out of 4th.

Half the time it will not pop out no matter what, change in speed, up or down shift, throttle, the amount of clutch, the amount of throttle when first in 4th, nothing.
The other half it pops out, sometimes immediately, most of the time slowly.

If I see the shifter start to move, I push the clutch, put it in neutral, back to 4th, 50/50 chance.

Once it's in 4th and not coming out, you know it. If it goes in to stay right from 3rd, you know it, and nothing will pop it out.

Shifter is always in the same spot, whether it's in and staying, or wants to go to neutral.

Called Passon last week, waiting for reply, will follow up tomorrow if no response by then.

To be clear, this is not a thread started to bash Passon.
I have had a difficult time finding real feedback since I ordered it years ago, so I thought this would help others.

I am extremely happy and deflated at the same time, but stuff happens, it's how you react to it, it's the only thing you can control.

Let's avoid complaining and 'I'd rather buy this or that trans' please.

Happy to answer any questions.

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Stuff happens and I am sure Passon will get it fixed for you.
 
Nothing to do with the 5 speed, but I prefer my original shifter.
Of course, the original shifter would have been an Inland, mine was the one year only a-body Hurst, bench, aftermarket replacement.

It's not a bolt in handle, or a push in, it has a bolt thru it front to back where it pivots.

It was way lower, and I realize now put me in a more relaxed position, or mindset maybe, and I used to keep my hand low on the wheel.
The higher shifter keeps my left hand on the top of the wheel at all times.

Plus, with the radio mounted below the dash the shifter is in the way.

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Fourth gear is direct, and as long as the input shaft cannot walk fore/aft this popping out business should not be able to occur
unless there is something going on in the shift-cover.

IMO you need to fix this ASAP before the input clutch-teeth, and slider, get damaged.Then it won't stay in at all anymore.
 
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That doesn't sound good.

If it is walking fore/aft, it's not going for a walk everytime.
 
Yeah I'm more inclined to think it's in the cover.I wouldda thought linkage but you seem to think that's OK.
>My first Go-To on that is; I would suspect the cover is too far back. Mopar covers are indexed to the A833 case by two special long-shanked bolts so this is not generally possible. But every once in a while a guy needs to pry the cover forward as far as it will go. IDK about Passon boxes.
>The next thing I would suspect is a loose external shift-lever on the stud. I usually fill that cavity with loc-tite before the special nut goes on; the one with the serrated teeth on the underside. Then after it dries, it will never wobble around on the shaft again. I use the low temp stuff, just in case I need to take it apart some day.
But there is one caveat; the loc-tite likes to migrate along the stud up into the cover, locking the works up solid. You have to prevent that. It can only wick up there until it is stopped by the O-ring seal; nevertheless, if it does, you will have to get out the torch and take it all apart for cleaning. No biggie; just time.After this, you would have to re-sync the neutral gate. And for street use, do not bias it.
>After that, the next Go-To would be a broken weld on the other end of that stud which would allow the internal lever to misbehave.

Once you have done the loc-tite thing to both the 1-2, and the 3-4 levers, you will be able to really slam that shifter about as hard as you care to, and the shifter will hold it's neutral gate for years. In fact, if you don't already have 1/2 or better shift rods, and it looks like you do, then they would be the next thing to change. But yours look pretty beefy and look to be in a nice straight shot. Just make sure nothing rubs on something it's not supposed to.

FWI; I don't see a shift stopper/over-travel limiter, on the shifter mechanism. If you plan on slamming the shifter often, then I think it would be worth it to install one, else the rooster-comb and interlock-pin are gonna take a heckuva beating
 
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I recall several reports of the A855 popping out of fourth gear. Contact Seth Garrett
GFI, 1800-880-9954 EXT# 104, 7:30 A.M. to 3:30 P.M. EST He'll get you underway to remedy the problem.
 
I have mine sitting in the garage, I've had it in and out of the car a couple times for mock up. The casting on the transmission where speedo cable comes out on the top of the transmission interfered with the upper trans crossmember, so I'm going to cut a notch for some clearance.

The popping out of gear issue, I think Jamie revised the shifter forks to solve that problem. You might have the older ones. Call him tomorrow. ;)

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mopardude318 said:
The popping out of gear issue, I think Jamie revised the shifter forks to solve that problem. You might have the older ones. Call him tomorrow. ;)
Click to expand...

Older based on what date?

Mine was tested 10/2017, received 5/2018.

It appears most, like me, have it for a while before installing, so knowing a cutoff date would help many I'm sure.

Also, those with the trans, did you receive the instructions stating to use 75W140?
 
A guy I know in Denver got an A855 from Jamie and it popped out of 4th occasionaly. He contacted Seth Garret and Seth had him ship it somewhere and it was back fixed within two weeks. He tells me it works like a dream now.
 
Who's Seth Garrett?
I just googled the phone# and nothing came up.

I called Passon today, 1 day short of a week since I left a message. I explained I left message on the 21st, restated why I'm calling, when I installed it - silence.
Can I get some feedback or direction, I don't want anything else at the moment and I'm willing to try anything.

Asked when did I purchase, if I adjusted shifter, and if I aligned the bellhousing.

I had the engine built a few years back, and had the pilot bushing, flywheel, and bellhousing installed. Pilot and bell done at machine shop because it wasn't something I was familiar with at the time, flywheel because it was dyno'd and needed for alignment.

I put the engine in the car, installed the clutch and the 4 speed.

Fast forward to the 5 speed, I swapped in a new pilot, flywheel and clutch, and left the bellhousing alone.

Passon informed me that the 4 speed has a roller bearing which is more forgiving to a bellhousing that's out of alignment.
The 5 speed has a tapered bearing, which is not forgiving at all - wish I knew that earlier.

I needed to verify it was not out more than .005, to which I replied I don't have anything on writing, and my worst fear is the machine shop either doesn't either, or they didn't do it.

Went there today, no records, original owner retired, no luck.
Spent the rest of the day trying to find someone who can do this for me - these shops don't even know what I'm talking about, can't find anyone, guess I'll have to learn it.

Came home, checked shifter again, all aspects, clearance, pulled rods, etc.

I noticed something, 3rd sometimes, 4th usually, it takes 2 clicks to get it into gear.

Now remember, I know nothing, so I turned the crank, tried again, and repeated, I don't know why.

A dozens times I turned the crank and manually shifted the gears with a wrench, never 1/2, never 5/R, once 3rd, everytime but twice 4th.

No idea if this means anything.
Pulling towards the camera is 4th.
At the end I tried to just flick it with the wrench, and it slips right into 3rd no problemo.
 
Seth Garret is most likely the guy who originally assembled your transmission. He would have then shipped it to John Huff's shop in Casper, WY for a road test. That's where it got it's tested date in marker put on it. One of the things they check for is popping out of gear since it is a known issue. Odd it was missed, or it started after testing. After testing, Jamie has it shipped to his next customer in line. Here's the website: 5SR by GFI
 
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And how much did this thing cost again?
 
Probably twice as much as a tremec, but I saved a ton reusing my speedometer pinion.

Add in flywheel, clutch, fluid, misc, plus I needed a bolt on shift handle, it was certainly an expensive endeavor.

In my case, original bb car, I didn't want to cut anything, and I wanted to do it myself with 'hand tools' as they say.

I'm not going to lie and say it makes it easy to change back to stock, because that's not happening while I'm around.
And I get that makes it sound dumber in a way, but I still didn't want to cut it up, deal with any potential issues or unknowns, like possible interference with the bench seat.

It's not the right choice for everyone, and just getting one or getting on the list doesn't ensure a successful install without issues.
Kind of why I wanted to post this, I see a lot of comments on getting one, having one, I know a guy, he loves it, hates it, and so on.

This guy got the call at the right time, loved to look at it, appreciates and admires the skill to create it, liked the ease of install, loves 5th gear, loves a new transmission.

I don't like bad info on the ppwk, referring to the wrong fluid, and no notification, whether directly to buyers or via media/website, of a change in fluid type.
I don't like the speedometer interference with the floor, I understand the placement is part of the design, and I like it higher, however stating to install speedometer cable before transmission doesn't solve the issue of two things trying to occupy the same space. Plus, changing the gear would mean removing the trans.
I wish I knew about the difference in the old roller bearing and the new tapered, and the hightened importance of bellhousing alignment.
And obviously I don't like 4th popping out, cause tbd.

That may seem like more dislikes than likes, but I would do it again.

As I write this, I'm thinking the speedo cable needs to be freed up.
I read somewhere when installing a trans, leave the mount bolts lose until the crossmember is bolted in, as the mount holes are elongated to allow for correct placement. Getting to the two bolts on the trans is impossible with the crossmember in, as far as I could tell just sliding my butt under the car, so I unbolted the single lower bolt last night. It wouldn't move in any direction and it was difficult to determine if the speedo cable was the culprit.
I'll have to take another look, thinking the two bolts s/b accessible thru the bottom of the crossmember.

I hope all my bs helps someone.

More to come.

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Calling Seth was the best call I've ever made.

Thank you @grimreaper

So I call the 800#, while leaving a message I received 2 calls from an unknown #, it was Seth calling from his phone apologizing that the business phone sometimes messes up.

26 minute call, listened too everything I had to say about all of the things I noticed, popping out, sometimes in 4th and no way it's coming out, sometimes not, I hear a slight sound in neutral sometimes, using a wrench on the gears, etc.

He explained the process for how these trans get manufactured, assembled, parts used, where they are tested, etc.
He explained how they have records on all the trans, testing, etc, and when my warranty ends.

Gave me the option to ship it back for warranty, or try 1 more thing - hold it in 4th.
My understanding is the gears need to seat and this will solve the issue in some cases.

We agreed that I would do this for the remainder of my 500 mile break in, and also that I'd probably be shipping it back.

The reasons -
Sometimes staying in 4th, the test I did in the above video, and I can 'feel' the trans in 4th, where every other gear is smooth, means something is up with 4th.
The noise in neutral could mean the bearing didn't seat correctly, not sure if I'm stating that correctly.

So, I asked, when I call back in a few weeks, do I have to go thru this all over again?
He said, the moments of silence are him taking notes, he needs my name/address and he wants me to wait while he looks it up to verify it's correct.

I told him I tossed the crate, he said he would ship me one, and ship the trans back, but I would have to pay shipping to him - ok.

He also said turn around time, at the moment, is a couple of weeks.

In retrospect, I had heard of GFI advertising the A855, but not selling or stocking them.
I asked if I could buy a trans directly from him, he said hopefully within a year, and hopefully that would lower costs.

My conclusion, night and day from the last call I made.

Customer service at it's best, personable, knowledgeable, and more important, instilled confidence and took responsibility.

More to come.
 
Ok that's good. My comment about cost was not aimed at the product itself, but yet the lack (until now) contact with customer service. Glad you got that part taken care of. Still a ***** to have to remove and ship it back if that has to happen. I assume return shipping is not on you. Good luck with it.
 
matthon said:
Calling Seth was the best call I've ever made.

Thank you @grimreaper

So I call the 800#, while leaving a message I received 2 calls from an unknown #, it was Seth calling from his phone apologizing that the business phone sometimes messes up.

26 minute call, listened too everything I had to say about all of the things I noticed, popping out, sometimes in 4th and no way it's coming out, sometimes not, I hear a slight sound in neutral sometimes, using a wrench on the gears, etc.

He explained the process for how these trans get manufactured, assembled, parts used, where they are tested, etc.
He explained how they have records on all the trans, testing, etc, and when my warranty ends.

Gave me the option to ship it back for warranty, or try 1 more thing - hold it in 4th.
My understanding is the gears need to seat and this will solve the issue in some cases.

We agreed that I would do this for the remainder of my 500 mile break in, and also that I'd probably be shipping it back.

The reasons -
Sometimes staying in 4th, the test I did in the above video, and I can 'feel' the trans in 4th, where every other gear is smooth, means something is up with 4th.
The noise in neutral could mean the bearing didn't seat correctly, not sure if I'm stating that correctly.

So, I asked, when I call back in a few weeks, do I have to go thru this all over again?
He said, the moments of silence are him taking notes, he needs my name/address and he wants me to wait while he looks it up to verify it's correct.

I told him I tossed the crate, he said he would ship me one, and ship the trans back, but I would have to pay shipping to him - ok.

He also said turn around time, at the moment, is a couple of weeks.

In retrospect, I had heard of GFI advertising the A855, but not selling or stocking them.
I asked if I could buy a trans directly from him, he said hopefully within a year, and hopefully that would lower costs.

My conclusion, night and day from the last call I made.

Customer service at it's best, personable, knowledgeable, and more important, instilled confidence and took responsibility.

More to come.
Click to expand...

Having to hold it in a gear is REALLY hard on shift forks.
Did you not loosen the side cover and push it as far forward as possible like J par said to do?
Sometimes the shift forks don't push the gear all the way into position and pushing the cover forward as far as it will go can help move the gear all the way in.
Popping out of gear and sometimes not is a clue that this may be the case, and as mentioned the more times it pops out the easier it will pop out.

Also I would make damn sure my warranty isn't going to expire while I'm waiting and putting those 500 miles on it.
 
I did not loosen the side cover.
I did ask Seth if there is anything else I can try, I gave a few examples, don't recall if that was one of them.
I do recall stating a few of the issues I heard about, I think one was related to the forks, but once again nothing from anyone with direct experience.

I can certainly try it, can't hurt. I wonder if it has any play in it to even push it forward.

Iirc, he said if anything sticks in his head and he recalls something he'll let me know.

He explained the reasons for holding it in gear, but I couldn't recount it with any degree of accuracy.

Warranty is good until May of 2020, or was it 2021, no worries, I'll have the recommended break in miles on it within a few weeks.
And as we discussed, it's been doing this since the first test drive, I won't be waiting that long, another 100 miles/week and it's coming out.

I'm not looking forward to this at all, but I'm thinking about this:
American Powertrain Hydramax Hydraulic Clutch Release Systems HMCH-01201G
 
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