Ac conversion

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1973 Gold Duster

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I have a 1973 duster with factory ac and want to convert to r34. What thing do I have to do. Like what parts do I have to replace ect.
 
I have a 1973 duster with factory ac and want to convert to r34. What thing do I have to do. Like what parts do I have to replace ect.

Take the compressor off and dump the mineral oil out of it, not compatible with 134 freon. Dump a couple oz. of the new PAG oil in, work it around and dump that out too. Ready to reinstall the compressor, but first clean out the rest of the system and install a new Reciever Dryer. Couple of ounces of Pag oil in the empty compressor too, check how much pag oil to use.

Front condenser can be rinsed out with a fast dry brake parts cleaner and blow it out, then reinstall with new O-rings.

Buy 134 conversion fittings online or at local parts store.

If your compressor is questionable, now is a good time to put on a new mopar reman compressor so the system will work well. Check the magnetic clutch to see that it is functuoning too.

Reassemble, and pull down a full vacuum on the system and close it off for a half hour to make sure it does not leak down. Then recharge with the recommened ounces of 134 freon for your system, same as what it took for the r12.
 
You must replace the dryer original is not compatible with R134 and all black orings with green hbnr orings. I would also consider putting in a modern condenser and make sure you have a good fan and shroud.

Brian
 
I did nothing other than pull a vacuum and put R134 in them in multiple cars over the years. Seems to work just fine.

I added factory air salvaged from another car to my cuda. Replaced the drier and expansion valve with factory replacements. Dumped the oil out of compressor and replaced with pag oil. Blows so cold I have to turn it down.

Not saying replacing other stuff is not better, just not necessary.
 
As I understand, the purpose of the switch is a low pressure cut off in case the system starves on the low side. I think zero is zero with either refrigerant.
 
As I understand, the purpose of the switch is a low pressure cut off in case the system starves on the low side. I think zero is zero with either refrigerant.
Well, with R134 it needs to be an over-pressure limit switch also or you can blow the compressor like a hand grenade.
 
I did my 69 Dart. Cleaned out as much of the mineral oil as I could. Use the conversion fittings. Installed a new dryer. Installed 10 oz of pag oil. I forgot the amount of R134 I used but it is 80% of the R-12 amount. Seems like it was 50 oz.
 
Take the compressor off and dump the mineral oil out of it, not compatible with 134 freon. Dump a couple oz. of the new PAG oil in, work it around and dump that out too. Ready to reinstall the compressor, but first clean out the rest of the system and install a new Reciever Dryer. Couple of ounces of Pag oil in the empty compressor too, check how much pag oil to use.

Front condenser can be rinsed out with a fast dry brake parts cleaner and blow it out, then reinstall with new O-rings.

Buy 134 conversion fittings online or at local parts store.

If your compressor is questionable, now is a good time to put on a new mopar reman compressor so the system will work well. Check the magnetic clutch to see that it is functuoning too.

Reassemble, and pull down a full vacuum on the system and close it off for a half hour to make sure it does not leak down. Then recharge with the recommened ounces of 134 freon for your system, same as what it took for the r12.
 
1973 gold duster
Do you want to know the correct way or the "down and dirty" way?
I am a Certified A/C tech for auto, commercial, and residential. I have done both ways, on my stuff. I only do it the right way for a customer.
 
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Make sure you use PAG 100 oil as it is universal and mixes with all of it. That will increase your chances of being successful should you not change compressors.
 
1973 gold duster
Do you want to know the correct way or the "down and dirty" way?
I am a Certified A/C tech for auto, commercial, and residential. I have done both ways, on my stuff. I only do it the right way for a customer.
I want to know the best way that will last
 
I would use RedTek.
Yikes. This is why I don't answer AC question on an open forum. Just because something is sold/available does not make it a good product for an application. If you want my recomendation PM me. I will give you my phone number, as I need to ask some questions.
 
Yikes. This is why I don't answer AC question on an open forum. Just because something is sold/available does not make it a good product for an application. If you want my recomendation PM me. I will give you my phone number, as I need to ask some questions.

Yikes. Maybe I should have PM my opinion of something I’ve used several times without issues. Thanks for the flaming reminder that everyone has an opinion.
 
Yikes. Maybe I should have PM my opinion of something I’ve used several times without issues. Thanks for the flaming reminder that everyone has an opinion.
I never said it didn't work, There are several refrigerants that will work. This is why I asked the OP if he wanted to know the right way, or the "down and dirty way". I will only reccommend the right way, and will not do that on open forum, because of the statements like "I did it this way with no problems".
OK here is my take on Redtek or any hydrocarbon refrigerants.
1) flamable
1a) most good electronic leak detectors, state not to use them in a flamable enveroment.
2) usually proper fittings are not installed on the system, so the next person does not know what is in there
3)Illegal to use as a substitue for R-12 (can legally be used as a substitute for certain other refrigerants)
4)Voids manufactures warrenty of compressor.
5) most shops (including myself) have recovery/recycling machines, that could get contaminated if trying to recover without identifying it as being in the system. If found in the system, not being able to recover it, because of not have the dedicated recovery machine for that refrigerant.

I stated my position, and am now done with this thread.
 
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