Adhesion promoter suggestions?

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Rice Nuker

Rice Nuker

Let the Coal Roll!
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Well, I decided to change the color of my car right after blasting it all, degreasing, epoxy and base / clear. Fortunately I am only on the under side and have finished the interior re-paint.

I did a good job of sanding with 320 and very detailed scotchbrighting followed by de-greasing the interior to repaint, but am more concerned about the underside regarding long term adhesion.

Any one have experience with adhesion promoter over an existing paint? The existing is base coat with SPI production clear that is about 6 months old.

I am wanting to go with adhesion promoter after and in addition to the 320 and scotchbright detail. I am going back on with underside with single stage urethane 2k.

Couple pics..

Any experience with adhesion promoter over clear coat on standard rigid panels would be nice. Not talking about fish eye eliminator or painting over plastics..

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I would give Barry at SPI a call and see what he recommends, if anything. You may be able to find what you're looking for on their forum also. SPI makes an adhesion promoter as well.
www.spiuserforum.com
-Jon
 
my buddy who is a body guy uses prep all before painting anything, and he swears by bulldog adhesion promoter. never tried it myself
 
fenderman33 said:
I would give Barry at SPI a call and see what he recommends, if anything. You may be able to find what you're looking for on their forum also. SPI makes an adhesion promoter as well.
www.spiuserforum.com
-Jon
Click to expand...
I'd do just as fenderman said go to their site register find the correct forum and ask the question .I'd be suprised if you don't have a answer from Barry K (owner) within a couple of hours!
 
I talked to SPI, they recommended shooting my single stage directly over my scuffed clear.

I was asking him several times if adhesion promoter would be better and he said no.

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Rice Nuker said:
I talked to SPI, they recommended shooting my single stage directly over my scuffed clear.

I was asking him several times if adhesion promoter would be better and he said no.

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Promoter No,
Sealer Yes!
PPG has a line called Shopline, I have had good luck with those sealers too at a good price.

I wouldn't chance not using sealer IMO......
 
CUUDAK said:
Promoter No,
Sealer Yes!
PPG has a line called Shopline, I have had good luck with those sealers too at a good price.

I wouldn't chance not using sealer IMO......
Click to expand...


This I also agree with, seal it with a good epoxy and paint it.
 
I think some people get a little confused by the term Sealer.

An overly simplified explanation:

Primer is for sanding.

Sealer is for adhesion.


A sealer will give you the adhesion you are looking for.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
I think some people get a little confused by the term Sealer.

An overly simplified explanation:

Primer is for sanding.

Sealer is for adhesion.


A sealer will give you the adhesion you are looking for.
Click to expand...
Good explanation!
I do however use a good adhesion promoter called Bull Dog. Mainly used for plastic, vinyl or aluminum. I used it on my steering wheel and horn button.
 
Yea, okay, I have plenty of spi epoxy 2k. After scuffing all the crevices, I will probably thin it a little and put a medium coat on for additional stick and adhesion, let it flash 30 minutes and put the single stage over it. I like that idea quite a bit. :)

Rock N Roll!

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Rice Nuker said:
Yea, okay, I have plenty of spi epoxy 2k. After scuffing all the crevices, I will probably thin it a little and put a medium coat on for additional stick and adhesion, let it flash 30 minutes and put the single stage over it. I like that idea quite a bit. :)

Rock N Roll!

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Click to expand...


You got it dude. And I would suggest letting thinned epoxy sit a couple hours minimum if not overnight if you have the chance. Also let that epoxy sit in the gun for 20-30 minutes before you spray it.
 
ad promoter is for certain kinds of plastics..... thinned Epoxy primer aka sealer is what you put down first then base clear or single on metal, and most plastics.
 
67Dart440GT said:
You got it dude. And I would suggest letting thinned epoxy sit a couple hours minimum if not overnight if you have the chance. Also let that epoxy sit in the gun for 20-30 minutes before you spray it.
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Roger that. Let it set up before coating over it. Let it sit in the pot before spraying. I have heard this from my painter friend who follows the books and gets long lasting results.

. Thx!
 
Rice Nuker said:
Roger that. Let it set up before coating over it. Let it sit in the pot before spraying. I have heard this from my painter friend who follows the books and gets long lasting results.

. Thx!
Click to expand...

two different activators one is instant and one takes half an hour sitting the pot. Use the half hour one for better results.
 
67Dart440GT said:
Also let that epoxy sit in the gun for 20-30 minutes before you spray it.
Click to expand...

??

Better use a slow hardener! Its a beeatch to get "Kicked" epoxy out of a gun! I think I would let it sit in a mixing cup then pour into the gun.
 
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