Adjust valves

-
Adjust lash COLD

Adjust the exhaust valves when the intake just shuts

Adjust the intake when the exhaust just opens
 
Just follow the chart.
BBM-Mopar-Valve-Lash-Adjustment-Chart.jpg
 
motorpirate said:
We always did it running.
Not as big a mess as you would think. And lots faster!!
Click to expand...
How in the name of Buddha did you get the lash set correctly ?
With a hydraulic cam I have done this and given them the 1/2 turn past quiet , but that was with stud mounted rockers.
Shaft mounted has to be an adventure.
 
tubtar said:
How in the name of Buddha did you get the lash set correctly ?
With a hydraulic cam I have done this and given them the 1/2 turn past quiet , but that was with stud mounted rockers.
Shaft mounted has to be an adventure.
Click to expand...
Chevy stud mount is a bit easier but it's really the same. Unless you set them running, the procedure is the same. Solids have to be adjusted from time to time.
 
I do the procedure detailed above......set the exhaust as the intake starts to open and the exhaust as the intake sets on the seat.
Doing it cold , you want to compensate for expansion when the engine is at operating temp.
O.K. , true confession time.
I had to edit because my memory failed me..........I went .015 tighter with aluminum heads to get the number I wanted , not what they recommended.
card calls for .026 , I wanted .018
.011 cold got me .018 hot. , so there is a .007 difference in my case.
Then I read some guys who say with iron head and block .001 to .002 tighter than spec. when cold will give you your number when hot.
And some who say that you can set the lash to the spec and it will not change when hot. I am dubious , but as they say , your mileage may vary.
I'd squeeze them a couple thou cold , and check them hot to see where it leaves you.
 
Last edited:
Not really your question, but for a daily driver you might prefer switching to hydraulic lifters so you don't have to regularly adjust them. I did so in my 1965 273. I installed an "RV Torque" camshaft and Rhodes leak-down lifters. Rhodes give a similar effect as VTEC in current engines. I bought shorter pushrods, I recall ones for the special 340 RT engine (~1972) fit and the adjustable rockers made setting pre-load on the lifters easy. I also set the cam for 4 deg advance for better mileage, low-end torque and to account for wear. Posted w/ photos years ago. Only driven the car once since, so can't comment and just theory for now.
 
there are 2 styles of 273 adjusters. I have seen both but the stockers are interference nuts (they hold themselves tight) and there are lock nut styles, possible aftermarket. To adjust while running, get an old T shirt on cuzz its gonna get messy: Idle until the car gets to operating temperature and then remove on valve cover. With any luck, your oil will not get everywhere but just a little puddling at the base of the valve cover rail. Now get your 5/16 deep socket on a universal joint and attempt to get it onto one of the rocker arms. you can also try with a 12 point offset box end but it will be moving, just hold either loosely. Now tighten it with a feeler gauge on the valve stem until you cant feel resistance dragging the feeler guage on the 'idle' cycle. Continue with all 16. If you want a cleaner safer way, just do it hot per the sticker and you'll get the same results.
 
tubtar said:
This is how I do it on mine and it seems to work.
Click to expand...


This is how comp cams recommends doing it and my engine builder does it this way as well.

To me it is the easiest way and also allows you to check any valve at any time, quickly and easily.
 
hot or cold ur stuff is solid. do as all have been done all solids set the same. as ur stuff worn out set same as new. ?its solids. 1and 1 makes two. lube keep all slick a good thick lube .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top