Adjustment linkage at an angle

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duster360

duster360

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Should this clutch adjustment rod have this much angle?

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I would think that the alignment is much more critical when your clutch is depressed!! That's when all the load is on the linkage. Have someone depress the clutch and take another pic ....make sure you're at the same level (vertically) as the linkage when you take the pic, if you take the pic at an angle you get some parallax (new word for you).

PS - Make sure your car is not on an incline when you're under the car and your friend depresses the clutch.....OUCH!!!Treblig
 
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I can see the problem from here,lol
That lever is too far to the rear, and too far up. Mine hangs qute a bit lower under the T-bar.
Conversely, the engine and or trans are not in the factory location.
The way it is now, the lever is too short and will not give you the departure you need. And also, as the lever moves to the rear, the angle with the work will grow larger, and some of the lever travel will be used up with that motion.

Also the fork is a tad too far forward, but if it's off the fingers, then it will work.... it's just hard to install the boot, and the boot may get cut by the returning fork.

Did you install the frame-end ball pivot your self?
If no it was already FACTORY installed, then check the Z-bar orientation with respect to the horizontal, between the ball-ends; it should be very close to parallel to the pavement. And it should be very close to being 90* to the frame.
Then with factory engine and trans mounts, the bellhouse-end should match the frame end in height and fore/aft location.
The quick-check is to see the downrod in the oval firewall cutout cycling up and down with pedal movement and staying reasonably well-centered.

But if you installed the frame-end ball pivot, then they could both be too high.

But Ima thinking that Z-bar is just wrong.

There was a thread started here a few months ago that gave the measurements of the various inboard lever lengths. I'm gonna see if I can find it. What I remember I think, was that on the correct Z-bar, both levers were the same EFFECTIVE lengths. If you like, you can measure yours while I'm gone.
One thing I'm pretty sure of is that it's not gonna work the way it now is.


OH crap, I bet the trans is not installed, and the rear of the engine is way too low!! That would mess up the adjuster-rod angle, and parallax could be messing with the lever drop. That would only leave why the lever is so far to the rear.
And as for that there are just two possibilities; 1) the pedal is not parking on the factory provided pedal-stop, or 2) the downrod is too short.I guess there is a third possibility; the lever is welded on wrong
END
 
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Well, I guess if I had the transmission attached to the engine it might straighten things out a little. Been in too much of a hurry multitasking around the homestead today. :realcrazy::BangHead:
 
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AJ/FormS said:
I can see the problem from here,lol
That lever is too far to the rear, and too far up. Mine hangs qute a bit lower under the T-bar.
Conversely, the engine and or trans are not in the factory location.
The way it is now, the lever is too short and will not give you the departure you need. And also, as the lever moves to the rear, the angle with the work will grow larger, and some of the lever travel will be used up with that motion.

Also the fork is a tad too far forward, but if it's off the fingers, then it will work.... it's just hard to install the boot, and the boot may get cut by the returning fork.

Did you install the frame-end ball pivot your self?
If no it was already FACTORY installed, then check the Z-bar orientation with respect to the horizontal, between the ball-ends; it should be very close to parallel to the pavement. And it should be very close to being 90* to the frame.
Then with factory engine and trans mounts, the bellhouse-end should match the frame end in height and fore/aft location.
The quick-check is to see the downrod in the oval firewall cutout cycling up and down with pedal movement and staying reasonably well-centered.

But if you installed the frame-end ball pivot, then they could both be too high.

But Ima thinking that Z-bar is just wrong.

There was a thread started here a few months ago that gave the measurements of the various inboard lever lengths. I'm gonna see if I can find it. What I remember I think, was that on the correct Z-bar, both levers were the same EFFECTIVE lengths. If you like, you can measure yours while I'm gone.
One thing I'm pretty sure of is that it's not gonna work the way it now is.


OH crap, I bet the trans is not installed, and the rear of the engine is way too low!!
Click to expand...

AJ, you guessed it.
 
I had someone press the pedal and I watched the arm come down and the angle also got worse. Now that I have everything stable and straight I can only get around .030" of gap at the disc. That is with the bearing against the pressure plate.
 
Well, there you go
Perhaps post #3 was accurate
That will definitely put the inboard ball in the wrong place
But the positioning of the outboard ball may have to be moved, to maintain the Z-bar parallelism to the ground and 90* to the frame, with the downrod still centering in the firewall window.
Once you get all that done, the fork action should drastically improve
 
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