Advice Needed

Mopar Body and Trim

  1. domdart

    domdart FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    I am going to paint the roof of my 72 D100. I am not doing a restoration but I want it to be white like it was originally. What do I do with the channels? I am thinking sand them, then POR 15 them, put a big bead of seam sealer, then paint. Please give me some advice. Lets "pretend" I don't know what I am doing. IMG_1809.JPG IMG_1812.JPG
     
  2. George Jets

    George Jets 1967 Dart 2 Door FABO Gold Member

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    You have it right.

    Sand and clean the channels, small drill bits with drill helps clean out the deep rust spots, small roll-lok discs to grind rust out, wire wheels on drills, sand with 80 grit.

    Prime with good primer surfacer mopping it into the open seams. Let surfacer dry properly, then autobody seam sealer in the channel to seal it. Let it dry at least over night.

    Then put your favorite automotive finish over the top.

    Good as new.
     
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    • Bodyperson

      Bodyperson Keep yer nose to the wind

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      3m makes a wire wheel for a 1/4 inch arbor that chucks in a drill. It is impregnated with some kind of resin that keeps the wires from folding over like they do without the resin, thus becoming ineffective. I searched the web and could not find them so I finally took some pictures of my own. They are really effective in your situation. Your best fix would be getting rid of all of the rust and use epoxy on the bare steel. Sandblasting being the final step before a direct to metal primer. Fusor 800 is an awesome seam sealer. It is direct to metal too.

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    • JDMopar

      JDMopar Well-Known Member

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      @Bodyperson I'm guessing the Fusor seam sealer is paintable. Is it better than 3M Fast-N-Firm? How long before you can paint over it? Thanks.....I've gotta do the same thing as the OP, but to a 65 Barracuda.
       
    • Bodyperson

      Bodyperson Keep yer nose to the wind

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      The fusor is paintable immediately or up to 30 days without scuffing. I can't imagine scuffing I because I drys super stretchy. I've used a lot of fast and firm. That product isn't near as good as the fusor 800 TM. The problem with any of them is contamination after applying. Its definitely the last step before paint. I have a problem painting it immediately but it says you can. It's a urethane and is cured my moisture. Basically the same thing they glue windshields with. It holds good to vertical surfaces and tools easily. I usually use my finger or an acid brush or two brushes taped together. You can let it set for an hour or so and wet your finger and iron it out real smooth if you need to. Which ever product you use, make sure you use a sealer before the paint.
       
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      • JDMopar

        JDMopar Well-Known Member

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        Thank you. I will definitely seal before painting. I wouldn't have thought to make it a last step before paint, so I appreciate the heads up on that! :D
         
      • Bodyperson

        Bodyperson Keep yer nose to the wind

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        91+jKY8b1BL._AC_UL320_ML3_.jpg I finally found this on Amazon. It's call a skinner. search "autobody skinner" awesome tool to have. You will probable need to buy the one with the arbor. They last a good long time too. Like 10 years for me and I used it a lot.
         
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