AFTER MARKET JUNK!!!!

Brakes for your Classic Mopar

  1. wolfhammer

    wolfhammer Well-Known Member

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    I noticed a lot of posts on this issue and would like to add to it cause I'm pretty pissed right now.
    I just spent 2 weeks intermittently trying to get my car going. I did a K-H disc brake swap, new lines and a new combination valve. Front brakes were fine but rears wouldn't bleed.
    I did everything possible to get fluid to the rear but no luck using vacuum, buddy bleed, even a syringe to force fluid in from the rear bleeders. Nothing worked so I did the loosen a front brake bleeder trick to get the shuttle valve centered but nope nothing.
    Today I took the combo valve off for dissection, this is what I found.
    The lower part of the shuttle valve is jammed in the bore as if it was forced in, I could not even get it out using 150 pounds air pressure!!! The upper part of the shuttle is also a bit tight but it came out ok. The bottom plug leaked and the crush washer as well so as you can see I had to use hydraulic sealer or (goose poop) as some call it. $90.00 useless part I can't return so I'm screwed. Just want you all to be aware of these valves and if you purchase one take it apart to make sure everything is in order and not stuck. thumbnail.jpg thumbnail (1).jpg
     
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    • 66fs

      66fs FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      That is why I'd rather get a 50-60 year old part than buy new Junk. Glad you found it. I learned long a go, that "new" does not mean it is good.
       
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      • wolfhammer

        wolfhammer Well-Known Member

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        Yup and I'm putting an original factory one in. This is a safety issue and these parts should need D.O.T. approval before being marketed.
         
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        • my68barracuda

          my68barracuda Well-Known Member

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          Why can’t you return the defective part for a refund or credit?
          Did the seller refuse, if so who is it?
           
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          • burdar

            burdar Owen's Dad

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            There have been issues with the reproduction prop valves for years. Original ones can be taken apart and rebuilt with new o-rings.
             
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            • chryslerfat

              chryslerfat Well-Known Member

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              I discovered this 5 years ago. The one on my sons 1st car was too rusty for me to reuse when replacing all the lines. It gave me nothing but trouble for a year including leaking out the button and then not leaking after a bleed till a few months of use then leaking again. I ended up going to a junkyard with older cars and buying an original and trouble free since.
               
            • mvh

              mvh FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              I returned one because it leaked, and the replacement leaked, too. Replaced a washer and it was OK. The copper washer had a huge nick in it like it had been hit with a chisel. Can't imagine anyone thinking that it was OK for assembly — they must have employed blind people at the factory.
               
            • wolfhammer

              wolfhammer Well-Known Member

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              Cheap chinesium JUNK
               
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              • wolfhammer

                wolfhammer Well-Known Member

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                I bought it 3 years ago and no receipt
                 
              • d1970

                d1970 TODAY IS A GOOD DAY TO HAVE A GOOD DAY

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                I had a new one from Inline Tube that leaked right away. I had no problem returning it and they send me another one. No problem with it. They have a 90 day warranty. I guess it is hit or miss on these.
                 
              • wolfhammer

                wolfhammer Well-Known Member

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                The part circled in red is whats stuck in the bore and blocking the ports. This photo is from musclecarresearch.com
                mopar-70-76-combo-rebuild-5.jpg
                 
              • RustyRatRod

                RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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                I totally agree. When it comes to brakes, especially. No way do I want new, Chinkesium metallurgy that you never know when it might break when I can get a 50 year old part, made from good metal and rebuild it. It's one less piece of Chinkesium bought and a little less business done with them. They're our enemies. We shouldn't be buyin squat from China.
                 
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                • SMCARNUT

                  SMCARNUT Well-Known Member

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                  Let us know where you bought the part so we do not make the same mistake please.
                   
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                  • MoparMike1974

                    MoparMike1974 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                    This is why I was happy when I found a place selling the rebuild kits for these prop valves.
                     
                  • wolfhammer

                    wolfhammer Well-Known Member

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                    I don't remember what vendor but manufacturer stamp is INL
                     
                  • triumphman

                    triumphman FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                    I have the same issues with the new valve. They are junk. Anything Chink is trash. Now even new "Mopar" parts are made there. How sick.
                     
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                    • AxeMan

                      AxeMan Member

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                      Did you install a Hold off Valve for your rear drums? I had the same problem as you!! It stumped me for a long time,the only way I could get the rear brake to bleed was to do a gravity bleed one at a time.
                       
                    • bc3j

                      bc3j Member

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                      I needed 3 wheel cylinders to get one that didn’t leak from China. For bleeding, provided the master is bled, the safety switch is functioning and the rear line from frame to rear axle is internally ok, have used the Motive power bleeder. The FSM recommends pressurizing the hydraulic system. Was an easy one man job once the crap cylinders didn’t leak. Was aggravating doing something three times, but in the end a solid pedal.
                      F4A5C911-BE37-4155-BB2B-0CE2E385AAB9.png
                       
                    • 67Dart273

                      67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      I have always been a big advocate of pressure bleeding rather than vacuum or gravity.

                      Even on my junk Ram/ Dakotas, or the 04 GMC I bought an extra filler cap, drilled and tapped to take a 1/8 pipe fitting and pressurized it
                       
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                      • my68barracuda

                        my68barracuda Well-Known Member

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                        Interesting, and what fitting is put into the 1/8 pipe fitting? And are you using something low volume like a hand bicycle pump?
                         
                      • 70dart340

                        70dart340 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                        I'm printing this out so my wife doesn't make me sell any more of my parts!
                         
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