After removing bulkead connectors to clean no start

[gtgto]

Wow, what a nightmare. I was waiting on a .8 OHM Ballast resistor to go along with my new MSD Blaster coil, Figured I would disconnect the bulkhead connectors and clean them up. After cleaning them and installing the new Ballast Resistor I get crank but no fire at all. My car used to at least run for a 1/2 hour before I had no spark and after it cooled off it would fire up. Now it just turns over and I have no spark from coil at all. Its hard to believe I made it worse but I did......Major step backwards. Where do I start now?

 

[67Dart273]

Start by making some tests. First, suspect that you may have pushed one of the terminals out of the connector. It's possible your problem has nothing to do with the bulkhead connector, or that you wiggled/ shook loose a connection nearby.

So what is it that gives the coil starting voltage?

What is it that gives the coil/ ignition RUNNING voltage?

Go to MyMopar.com. Download a service manual. While you are there download the simplified aftermarket diagram for your car, it's sometimes easier to follow, but often not as detailed

There are TWO sources for ignition voltage, IGN1 and IGN2 come from the ignition switch. IGN1, traditionally "dark blue" is ONLY hot in "run."

The IGN2, traditionally brown, is ONLY hot in "start." Stick a meter or even test lamp on your coil+ You should have "same as battery" during cranking, and at least 10.5V

 

[67Dart273]

WHAT DO YOU HAVE for an ignition system, exactly? Distributor? points? HEI? Mopar? Mallory? ?? ??? ????

 

[gtgto]

WHAT DO YOU HAVE for an ignition system, exactly? Distributor? points? HEI? Mopar? Mallory? ?? ??? ????

Car was changed over to Mopar electronic ignition before I purchased it. Except for the new MSD 8222 it appears to be all stock components. The distributor was recently replaced with a rebuilt one but was running fine before this.

 

[RedFish]

It's typical of failing ignition electrical components to stop when hot then work again once they've cooled. Applies to any brand. They will stop/fail for good eventually. Reads like that was your root problem. So no start after terminal cleaning could be coincidence. And...
Depending on what car, what loads have been added on, pushing the bulkhead connectors back together could have pushed a female terminal out of a melted port. The blue or blue w/white tracer from ignition switch feeds ignition, charging, electric choke, most everything under the hood. Aftermarket component and/or addons have cooked this circuit. Good luck with it.

 

[moparbud66]

I feel your pain gtgto!

 

[gtgto]

Start by making some tests. First, suspect that you may have pushed one of the terminals out of the connector. It's possible your problem has nothing to do with the bulkhead connector, or that you wiggled/ shook loose a connection nearby.

So what is it that gives the coil starting voltage?

What is it that gives the coil/ ignition RUNNING voltage?

Go to MyMopar.com. Download a service manual. While you are there download the simplified aftermarket diagram for your car, it's sometimes easier to follow, but often not as detailed

There are TWO sources for ignition voltage, IGN1 and IGN2 come from the ignition switch. IGN1, traditionally "dark blue" is ONLY hot in "run."

The IGN2, traditionally brown, is ONLY hot in "start." Stick a meter or even test lamp on your coil+ You should have "same as battery" during cranking, and at least 10.5V

Well I checked the bulkhead connectors once again and checked voltages at ballast and connector to ECU with key in on position and they were lower than the .5 volts lower than charged battery. Since I had replaced the ECU not long ago with a blue high rev one I decided to re install the blue box I had on hand. Tightened it down and connected it and pumped the gas twice and she fired right up, I put the newer blue box in and she would not fire up. SO what ECU is the best to use. I've heard orange are no good these days and since the new blue high rev did not last long at all should I go with a chrome one. I've heard they are good.

 

[RedFish]

I bought a used chrome box from a member here. It's been in use for 4 or 5 years now and I don't know how old it was when I got it. We don't know how/where those are built new today either
Good luck

 

[Daves69]

If it helps or to review, conversion instructions are posted here.......
Mopar Performance Electronic Ignition Kit Instructions

 

[KitCarlson]

If the connectors were cleaned , the female part may need to be crimped slightly for better contact. Beware, the contacts are often brittle, due to heat cycles and corrosion. They may not have the ability for a tight connection. The Packard 56 terminals are rated at only 5 connect and release cycles, so the best fix is replacement with tinned terminals from Waytek Wire or other sources. The tinned connectors reduce corrosion. The connectors are also in wire gauge, for the wire used, so one size does not fit all.

 

[gtgto]

I bought a used chrome box from a member here. It's been in use for 4 or 5 years now and I don't know how old it was when I got it. We don't know how/where those are built new today either
Good luck

I ordered a chrome ECU from Advanced Auto online. I got impatient waiting for it to arrive from CA to me here in CT so I looked online and Autozone near me actually had it in stock. I figured it will not hurt to have an extra ECU and .8 OHM ballast on hand to keep in the glove box. Mounted the new chrome box and pumped the gas twice and she came to life with a turn of the key. Weather permitting I should have a chance tomorrow to take her out for a ride.