Aligning door

Mopar Body and Trim

  1. Backally

    Backally FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    80BB1D81-B824-4961-BC10-0B3E36B86E44.jpeg B7AA58B6-3F28-453B-955C-DF9E09CDB7F9.jpeg I got a pass side door on a 70 Duster that hasn’t been lined up since I got it. I know minimal on body work. It lines up with the rocker panel at the front of the door, but the back sticks out a good 1/4”. I believe the rocker panel was replaced before I got it. The top of the door lines up with the quarter panel. Watching videos no one talks about this condition. Is this correctable? And all the YouTube’s I see all have the front fender off, is that necessary or can I adjust this with the fender on, then adjust the fender if it needs it?
     
  2. str12-340

    str12-340 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    The post that the door latches to has a captured nut in the quarter panel and play in the system to adjust. since the door is aligned top to bottom, mark the post and the quarter so you don't let it drift up or down when adjusting. Loosen (do not remove) the post with the requisite star bit and then move it toward the inside of the car so that the door closes where you want it in the back and then check the front edge to be sure you didn't throw it out of alignment there...

    I'm assuming that the door sticks out at the top and bottom in the back. If it just sticks out at the bottom then the door hinge at the bottom of the door IN THE DOOR, not the body frame, need to be loosened and the bottom of the door moved in.

    In both cases don't over loosen things, so that you have to exert pressure to move the post or door, get it too loose and it will be even more difficult to get in the right place. Move, check, move, check. One thing to watch for is getting the door too close to the front fender and peeling the paint off the edge when making your checks.
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2020
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    • Backally

      Backally FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Thanks. The door just sticks out on the bottom, and just the back of the door. The top is fine, and the front is good top and bottom. Also the bottom front does line up with the rocker panel. If I move in that bottom hinge, won’t the front of the door not line up with that rocker panel? I guess that’s my concern and I don’t want to screw it up worse.
       
    • MoparLeo

      MoparLeo NRA PATRON LEVEL LIFE MEMBER FABO Gold Member

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      Here are the pages from the FSM.
       

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    • Kendog 170

      Kendog 170 Let the boy go !

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      I have the same issue on my Convertable and haven't been able to adjust it out. It's almost like the door is Tweaked. Fender lines are good and Top of door and Quarter is flush. The Rocker is Original and New rear quarters. I'm tempted to try a different door or maybe put a new skin on it . It's Black so paint match isn't a problem. As said move your bottom door in some and maybe bottom of the Fender too. Good Luck.
       
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      • Oldmanmopar

        Oldmanmopar Going left turning right FABO Gold Member

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        This happens to doors when they are damage or closed on something hanging out the door. I had this several times and made a tool to straighten the door if already in paint. He was born in 1985. LOL

        There are 2 rubber stops top and bottom of the back of the door. Without the striker in place see if you can push the door against and the stops are touching. use carpenter framing chalk powder.
        There are different stops I have seen on doors some shorter then others. They look to have been trimmed at the factory when the car was built so the door when latched would be even. Doors do twist without much force use the rubbers to even the top and bottom without the latch pin and then install the latch pin to pull it tight. There are times you'll have to get someone with muscles to twist the door a little.

        I had doors shorter then others and was pulling my hair out trying to fit the fender and get the front edge of the fender even with the hood. I couldn't close the fender to door gap and still have the hood where it needed to be at the cowl. Days of adjusting and my son at age 13 playing with the tape measure found the problem. I was teaching him how to measure and he was walking around measuring things in the darage.

        At first I told him he was wrong because he wasn't measuring them at the same angle. He was right 3/16 difference side to side.

        Your door is an easy fix do not loosen the hinges if you are fine with the front of the door and fender gaps and the top to bottom door gap in the rear. Its only twisted a little and most are. Just not everyone cares. That is why the rubber stops are there.
         
        Last edited: Oct 21, 2020
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        • Kendog 170

          Kendog 170 Let the boy go !

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          :popcorn:
           
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          • str12-340

            str12-340 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            Yes, that is absolutely correct. I like oldmanmopar's ideas above, but 1/4 inch is a long way. You might see if you can get at least a bit closer moving the bottom of the door in, without creating a noticeable difference at the rocker. The bottom of the fender is easy to to adjust with (you guessed it) fender washers, so I'd concentrate on the back of the door and the rocker. It's possible that the rocker got moved a bit when installed. Sometimes you just have to split the difference and get as close as you can in multiple locations, paying most attention to the places that would catch your eye and that back of that door is definitely an eye catcher...

            Let us know how you get it right so others can use those thechniques
             
          • 4spdragtop

            4spdragtop CONGRATS NORTH AMERICA! FABO Gold Member

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          • Kendog 170

            Kendog 170 Let the boy go !

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            I couldn't get my door to budge by twisting it.
             
          • George Jets

            George Jets 1967 Dart 2 Door FABO Gold Member

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            One advantage to the door sticking out at the lower rear.

            It guides the small stones coming off the front tires past the leading edge of the quarter panel so as to not chip the paint off the quarter.
             
          • Backally

            Backally FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            oldmanmopar’s explanation made sense, I could totally see closing the door on something bending that out. What I did was put a short 2x2 up by the top jamb and push in on the bottom, trying to bend it back. Did this a number of times, I did get it to move maybe 1/2 of the distance I wanted. I’m my testing after every push I noticed I could push the door in a little more than the latch held it. I readjusted the striker, it pulled the top in just a hair but I’m probably the only one that would see it. But it pulled the bottom in enough it’s way better than it was. That bottom sticking out has been bugging me for a long time, I’m happy with it now.

            As always, I appreciate the responses!
             
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            • cosgig

              cosgig MoBro Inc. FABO Gold Member

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              In order to close the gap at the bottom rear of the door, the top hinge would need to be bumped out a smidge, and the lower hing would need to be bumped in. If there is any change to the front margins, loosen the top fender bolt that is hidden between the door and the fender and readjust that until you’re satisfied. Then go to the bottom of the fender and loosen that pair of bolts and adjust the margins there, which must be done with body shims. Use OMM’s advise on the stops, and work in very small increments, a little at one end adds up to a lot at the other end.
               
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