Alternator and Ignition help needed.

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rod7515

rod7515

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Working on a 66 Dart that has an original style alt with a field wire and hot wire. Its installed in the car with battery moved to truck and charging system is fine at 14.0-14.3. I bought a serpentine belt kit that included a one wire internal regulator alternator. (chrome plated) The directions say to remove the field wire and dont use it on the new alternator. If this is the case do I have to do anything with the regulator that is wired up or do i just terminate the field wire? I can get pics of new alt if needed and also copy of instructions can be posted.
DSCN0085.JPG


As for ignition question, I am using a procomp box and distributor. Was wondering what I should gap spark plugs at. Should it be the old .032 -.035 or do I go to .045 or .060?
Thanks Rod
 
Just unhook the regulator and "safe off" the blue IGN wire to the regulator. The green only goes one place..........from the F terminal on the regulator to the field terminal on the alternator
 
Thanks for the reply, what do you mean by "safe off"? Are you just saying tape the end really well?
On the spark plug question, should I regap plugs to a wider gap or let them at the .032-.035?

Thanks Rod
 
Yes just make sure it doesn't short. The blue is power to the regulator and the entire ignition supply is unfused, so you don't want "that."

I would gap them 35, no more than 40
 
If the Procomp box is HEI (like GM, Pertronix, ...), I would gap the plugs 55 mil. If it is like the Mopar ECU, I would gap them 40 mil. You will know the gap is too large if the engine starts missing at low speed and wide-open throttle, since that gives max cyl pressure which is the hardest place to jump a spark (sparks easily jump many feet in a vacuum chamber). As example, my 1996 2.4L Mopar started missing bad when accelerating hard on an interstate on ramp. I lowered the gap from 60 to 55 mil and no more mis-fire. That was from a TSB for the turbo version of that engine. With boost, cyl pressures increase so requires an even smaller gap (or ignition w/ more kick).
 
Disagree Bill. I think the reason "they" got on wide plug gaps was to help smog numbers. (Back in the mid 70's) Running wider gaps WHEN NOT NEEDED puts a lot of stress on wires, cap, rotor, and other HV components. The wider the gap (or leaner) the higher the secondary voltage goes. And with other external factors like moisture, dirt, etc, at some point it will flash over and or carbon track, or "punch through."
 
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