Alternator bracket pic request

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polarman

polarman

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Hey folks. I'm at the stage where I'm mocking things up on the new engine to get it ready for the Dart. It tore this apart over 9 years ago, and I took pictures but the low quality of them makes it hard to see. Can someone kindly post some pictures of the alternator brackets , spacers, and assembly to make things a little easier? If not, no biggie as trial and error will get it done.
 
It may be an issue with the Edelbrock heads, they don't sit flush with the block like the cast iron heads did.
 
Syleng1 said:
Maybe start with what year and engine size you have?
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Right. Silly me. It was a 68 318 with 340 heads, now it's a BP 408 stroker built from an early 90s 360 with Edelbrock aluminum heads. I got it on, and it looks like it will line up okay, but the alternator touches the cylinder head. I don't like that.
 
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Do your pulleys line up? Plus the alternator will be higher with the belts tensioned, above the head.
 
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move it low and get rid of the mopar alt. I used the power steering bracket to mount it and a turn buckle for belt adjustment. It does not hit anywhere and only takes one short wire to the battery. Shuts off when it stops turning. Turns on as soon as it hits 800 rpms. 100 amps.

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Do you have a single or double pulley alternator? If double and you are not using two belts on the alternator (as in your rank pulley is for 1 belt) then they will not line up properly. If single pulley then you need to get it spaced correctly to line up and clear. I have aluminum heads and a double pulley round back alternator that would not line up and clear the head. I went with the small 60 Amp Denso. It lines up and clears the head by about 1/32" on one of the cover bolts. I could grind it down for more but it wasn't needed for me. I also used my CVF Alternator brackets without the mount for the stock alternator, the tension rod bolted up to the Denso with a smaller bolt and shorter belt.
 
If your pulley's line up and your problem is with the head hitting now that I looked at you picture . I would clearance the head to give it room.

But we have a machine shop.

If I did not have access to a mill here is what I would do

If you use a AC alternator with dual belt pulley and use a spacer to move the alternator front. Then use the rear belt V on the alternator You will move the alternator and won't have to move the rest of the pulley's front. The spacer I believe will be 1/8-3/16 longer Get another long front spacer and cut what you need. You will have plenty left to screw it up to make different lengths. Or just add a washer or two depending on the thickness of the washers. A dual pulley on a AC alternator the rear groove is closer to the alternator by 1/2 the groove.

I have Pulley's if you need one they rent the tool at autozone to pull them off. But you will need to split the alternator to press the pulley on so you are pushing on the shaft and not the housing. The draw back is you will have a empty front grove not being used . But I can turn one down and take the front off on the lathe. If you want a picture of the alternators compared I can send you one. Here is an AC alternator the same except for the pulley. And also a non AC.
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I have them both here in the garage right now if you want measurments. I also have a bunch off if you want side by side pictures.

Don't think that you are going to machine the back off . You will reduce the Press fit. It will come off
Also you will need to cut the middle spacer to move the alternator front. What you cut off the middle spacer add the same length in front of the bracket behind the bolt . You can make all the spacers using one extra long spacer that I also have . Some one must have these parts near you. I am in North east PA.

Remember the dual grove pulley is closer to the alternator and lets you move it front.
Good luck . Steve

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I tore it back down last night to paint some parts before final assembly. It's a single pulley unit as my car is bare bones. Just a water pump and alternator. When I put it back together, I'll push it all the way to the end of the adjuster to see if it misses the head. If that's the case, a longer belt may be a simple solution. I'll let you know how I make out...
 
If you still have clearance issues. You could make spacers like wheel spacers for the crank and water pump pullys. And for behind the alt bracket and make a longer spacer for the round spacer between alt and engine.
 
Where's the alt hit the head. Either a longer or shorter belt I remember helping me out with Eddy heads and stock pulleys and brackets. I used the 70-up timing cover, water pump , brackets and pulleys.
 
I took my Gran Torino to a car show on Saturday, and as luck would have it there was a 69 Barracuda that has Edelbrock aluminum heads and the stock alternator brackets. The fix is so simple that I felt kind of stupid. Instead of mounting the adjuster to the inner lower hole on the bracket, you simply mount the adjuster to the hole that is higher and in the center of the bracket. Of course, I'll need a loner belt but I wasn't going to reuse the old one anyway. It's still close, but it just misses. And a miss is as good as a mile.
 
Getting closer. I'm down to a fuel pump, T stat, distributor, wires and motor mounts. Poverty sucks, so I'll buy a part at a time as I can. Thanks for the helpful replies!

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All of your clearance issues may stem from whether you reused the 68 brackets and pulleys from the cast iron pump style, and are trying to use them on the aluminum water pump style.
 
The alternator belt should come off of the water pump at almost a 90. Not enough wrap on the pump and it may slip? In your last picture it looks like all three pulley's are in a row.

There are times if you see someone jump off a cliff. You should look over the edge before you follow to make sure there is water down below.

Making the belt to tight to compensate slip may ruin the bearing in the alternator.

The AC alternator pulley would have worked perfect. I see your way is easy but I would be concerned about belt slip . V-belts should always have a at least 1/4 turn of wrap on any pulley.
I guess you'll see how long the belt lasts if it stays on . It may work if you keep the RPM's down and replace the manual fan with and electric one. Good luck.
 
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Oldmanmopar said:
The alternator belt should come off of the water pump at almost a 90. Not enough wrap on the pump and it may slip?

Making the belt to tight to compensate slip may ruin the bearing in the alternator.

The AC alternator pulley would worked perfect. I see your way is easy but I would be concerned about belt slip . V-belts should always have a atleast 1/4 turn of wrap on any pulley.
I guess you'll see how long the belt lasts if it stays on . It may work if you keep the RPM's down. Good luck.
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That is a very valid point that I had not considered one bit. It never even crossed my mind, but you're absolutely right. Thanks for your input!!
 
cosgig said:
All of your clearance issues may stem from whether you reused the 68 brackets and pulleys from the cast iron pump style, and are trying to use them on the aluminum water pump style.
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I don't know man. The water pumps appear identical other than the new on having an extra port on top. The alt and water pump pulleys line up well. I tried a single crank pulley that won't work, so I have to snag the double crank pulley off the old engine.

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