Alternator Mounting hardware/ Frame clearance in a Duster

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

Hello,

Looking at the alternator mounting on a 6.4 Gen3 hemi. I was able to bolt in one of the 3(?) bolts. The one I have in is from the Top side (pass fender well) and the other (2) look like they come in from the frame rail side. However there is less than an inch of spacing. I do have the frame marked as the flange lip is too close for liking, but other than that it clears.

The main issue is getting this locked down and getting the hardware in and out. Does anyone have any experience with this? I am not sure if running one bolt is the smartest, as I am not willing to try to do it. The only idea I have come up with is notching the frame with a small C notch and then this will allow clearance to insert and remove the bolts, but that's work I would like to avoid.

 

[BP27]

I move the alternator up with the Holley relocation kit

 

[Dana67Dart]

sometimes putting the bolts in the holes then setting the part in place then tightening the bolts is a way to overcome the issue your having. THIS IS JUST A GENERAL IDEA, not a tried on your particular situation thing

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

sometimes putting the bolts in the holes then setting the part in place then tightening the bolts is a way to overcome the issue your having. THIS IS JUST A GENERAL IDEA, not a tried on your particular situation thing

You are right. I can drop the engine and put the bolts in. I was thinking of a more logical solution, but this is less intense. Thank you

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

I move the alternator up with the Holley relocation kit

View attachment 1716571929

Does this include a whole new timing cover or just the mount for the alt?

 

[BP27]

It's Just the Mount It for the 1st gen dodge ram But it works for the a-body and you don't need to notch the frame rail

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

It's Just the Mount It for the 1st gen dodge ram But it works for the a-body and you don't need to notch the frame rail

But the 1st gen is non-vvt. Is your engine non vvt? looks like I didn't mention that.

 

[BP27]

The mount is made to put vvt car engine in to a 1972-1993 dodge truck

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

The mount is made to put vvt car engine in to a 1972-1993 dodge truck

I am going to drop the engine and then install for now. Do you have to remove the alt before removing the valve cover?

 

[DionR]

You are right. I can drop the engine and put the bolts in. I was thinking of a more logical solution, but this is less intense. Thank you

He wasn't talking about dropping the engine to put the bolts in. Put the bottom bolt(s) in the alternator and then see if it will slip in place, with the motor as it is.

I've seen plenty of people that have to notch the frame rail flange, but I have yet to hear that someone needed to make the notch bigger to get the bolts in the alternator. My guess is that is due to the bolts being short enough that they fit between the frame and the TC, so by slipping them in the alternator before setting it down into the engine bay, everything works ok.

 

[BP27]

No I don't have to remove the alternator to remove the valve cover. I have the Holley motor mounts that push the motor forward 1-3/4". If your motor is in the stock location that alternator mount may not work.

 

[DionR]

But the 1st gen is non-vvt. Is your engine non vvt? looks like I didn't mention that.

Says it fits both:

 

[DionR]

No I don't have to remove the alternator to remove the valve cover. I have the Holley motor mounts that push the motor forward 1-3/4". If your motor is in the stock location that alternator mount may not work.

View attachment 1716572458

Do you have a build thread? What did you do for a trans? PCM? Just curious, cool to see another Holley swap kit being used.

 

[BP27]

No Build thread A833 4- speed transmission Direct Connection PCM

 

[DionR]

No Build thread A833 4- speed transmission Direct Connection PCM

Any issues with the floor since the shifter moved forward? Did you go to a hydraulic clutch?

 

[BP27]

I used an e body transmission with a custom shifter mount and linkage to put the shifter in the stock location no floor modification. and yes it has a hydraulic clutch.

 

[SRT_DSTRHOLC]

He wasn't talking about dropping the engine to put the bolts in. Put the bottom bolt(s) in the alternator and then see if it will slip in place, with the motor as it is.

I've seen plenty of people that have to notch the frame rail flange, but I have yet to hear that someone needed to make the notch bigger to get the bolts in the alternator. My guess is that is due to the bolts being short enough that they fit between the frame and the TC, so by slipping them in the alternator before setting it down into the engine bay, everything works ok.

I am aware of that, his idea gave me the idea that I stated. The bolts I have are not short, the factory ones are too long to install with the engine in and aftermarket K. I have found my current solution.

 

[DionR]

I am aware of that, his idea gave me the idea that I stated. The bolts I have are not short, the factory ones are too long to install with the engine in and aftermarket K. I have found my current solution.

Just wanted to make sure you hadn't misunderstood.

 

[DionR]

I used an e body transmission with a custom shifter mount and linkage to put the shifter in the stock location no floor modification.

Brilliant! It was one of the reasons I didn't want to swap a G3 into my original 360 4 speed car, but never thought of using an E-Body setup and custom mount.

 

[racerjoe]

Hello,

Looking at the alternator mounting on a 6.4 Gen3 hemi. I was able to bolt in one of the 3(?) bolts. The one I have in is from the Top side (pass fender well) and the other (2) look like they come in from the frame rail side. However there is less than an inch of spacing. I do have the frame marked as the flange lip is too close for liking, but other than that it clears.

The main issue is getting this locked down and getting the hardware in and out. Does anyone have any experience with this? I am not sure if running one bolt is the smartest, as I am not willing to try to do it. The only idea I have come up with is notching the frame with a small C notch and then this will allow clearance to insert and remove the bolts, but that's work I would like to avoid.

You will likely need to trim the pinch weld off. Then just put the bolts into the alternator and put it in place. Start the top, then the bottoms and tighten them all. Piece of cake. You can get a Jeep alternator, which is supposed to offer more clearance, but I've never gotten a straight answer on how much space it saves. Sublime technologies sells pulleys to allow the Jeep alternators to work on the 6.4 belt spacing.

 

[DionR]

You can get a Jeep alternator, which is supposed to offer more clearance, but I've never gotten a straight answer on how much space it saves. Sublime technologies sells pulleys to allow the Jeep alternators to work on the 6.4 belt spacing.

Good info, I was unaware of the part from Sublime. As a plus, the bolts go in from the front of the motor instead of the side, so they should remove the issue of installing them for those that have that problem.

That said, my TC cover doesn't have the top hole drilled to the final size, so it's not a complete bolt on to use the older alternator for some.

Here's some pictures from @Ozyduster of his mockup:

 

[Ozyduster]

You will likely need to trim the pinch weld off. Then just put the bolts into the alternator and put it in place. Start the top, then the bottoms and tighten them all. Piece of cake. You can get a Jeep alternator, which is supposed to offer more clearance, but I've never gotten a straight answer on how much space it saves. Sublime technologies sells pulleys to allow the Jeep alternators to work on the 6.4 belt spacing.

Yep as the jeep alternator fits like a glove however its sits further back so either need to extend the pulley or machine the timing cover so can move the alternator forward. I looked on the sublime sight and couldnt see any pulley for sale ill email them

 

[DionR]

Yep as the jeep alternator fits like a glove however its sits further back so either need to extend the pulley or machine the timing cover so can move the alternator forward. I looked on the sublime sight and couldnt see any pulley for sale ill email them

The description kind of makes it a little cryptic, to me.

Billet Low Profile Offset Pulley - Late G3 Hemi

 

[racerjoe]

Good info, I was unaware of the part from Sublime. As a plus, the bolts go in from the front of the motor instead of the side, so they should remove the issue of installing them for those that have that problem.

That said, my TC cover doesn't have the top hole drilled to the final size, so it's not a complete bolt on to use the older alternator for some.

Here's some pictures from @Ozyduster of his mockup:

Pretty sure he just released the pulley a few months ago.

 

[Ozyduster]

The description kind of makes it a little cryptic, to me.

Billet Low Profile Offset Pulley - Late G3 Hemi

Ill flick them an email and check its correct, wonder if it puts much wear on the alternator with the pulley further out