Alternator upgrade?

[darndart]

What’s everyone doing for alternator upgrades? I am getting ready to install the Edelbrock Proflo 4 EFI on my 72 Duster, and wanted to make sure my charging system is up for the task. I would like to retain the factory wiring, but if that’s not possible, I am not opposed to doing some rewiring for a better charging system. Let me know what you’ve got.

 

[jbc426]

Hard to beat a Denso & kit. Just don't run high amp draw through the bulkhead connector, and run a larger charging cable with either a fusible link or fuse setup from the the alternator output to the starter relay lug or add a 12V distribution lug and wire that up.

 

[Ricks70Duster340]

I like the power master 100A one wire alternator.

 

[MadScientistMat]

I used a 1989 factory Dodge truck alternator. The only gotcha on later small block alternators is that some have a serpentine belt pulley. Otherwise they fit and wire up like a stock unit.

 

[dano]

What’s everyone doing for alternator upgrades? I am getting ready to install the Edelbrock Proflo 4 EFI on my 72 Duster, and wanted to make sure my charging system is up for the task. I would like to retain the factory wiring, but if that’s not possible, I am not opposed to doing some rewiring for a better charging system. Let me know what you’ve got.

So you have stock heads or aluminum? Clearance becomes more of a concern for aluminum heads.

 

[darndart]

So you have stock heads or aluminum? Clearance becomes more of a concern for aluminum heads.

I have stock 915 J castings

 

[darndart]

I used a 1989 factory Dodge truck alternator. The only gotcha on later small block alternators is that some have a serpentine belt pulley. Otherwise they fit and wire up like a stock unit.

Did you retain your stock external voltage regulator? I found this one on Rock Auto for a 1989 D150. It says externality regulated, and it has two bolt on style eyelets in the back, is that where the original field wires would go?

 

[dano]

Did you retain your stock external voltage regulator? I found this one on Rock Auto for a 1989 D150. It says externality regulated, and it has two bolt on style eyelets in the back, is that where the original field wires would go?

I followed this when I did mine but its for an internally regulated version.

Denso Alternator Installation

 

[jbc426]

These guys offer a lot of options, and are Made in USA!

https://alternatorparts.com/

 

[MadScientistMat]

Did you retain your stock external voltage regulator? I found this one on Rock Auto for a 1989 D150. It says externality regulated, and it has two bolt on style eyelets in the back, is that where the original field wires would go?

Mine's a new Bosch but otherwise is the same.

I initially tried using it with the stock 1966 points regulator. The regulator had been sitting too long and was frozen, so I switched to the 1970 and later style. Currently running a prototype for my own stock replacement regulators - the parts store one I initially used had water leaks.

 

[darndart]

Mine's a new Bosch but otherwise is the same.

I initially tried using it with the stock 1966 points regulator. The regulator had been sitting too long and was frozen, so I switched to the 1970 and later style. Currently running a prototype for my own stock replacement regulators - the parts store one I initially used had water leaks.

Cool, I have a newer, Solid State style regulator, so hopefully that will be fine. Thanks for the info.

 

[MV8]

It doesn't require an alternator upgrade but you should consider EMI that can interfere. Solid state regulator, good grounding, clean inside the cap, resistor plugs and spiral core inductive plug wires routed away from it all help to reduce the noise.

 

[slantsixdan]

The '88-'91 truck/van alternator is a wise pick, preferably the (Nippon)Denso 40/90 or 50/120 unit. The 40/90 is more than plenty unless you're running massive amounts of electrical equipment (giant stereo, lights everywhere, dual A/C, etc). The lower first figure indicates output capacity at idle, higher second figure is the max output rating at speed.

All '70-up regulators look alike, but are not all the same; none of the pre-'79 ones will dependably or durably handle the higher field current draw of the '79-up alternators, and there was another field current upgrade in '89. So to avoid cooking the regulator and conking out the charging system while you're in the middle of using it, install this kind of HD adjustable regulator.

To avoid an expensive and sad car-b-que (wire fire), read this (skip the halfaѕѕed, crummy advice from those dillweeds at Mad Electrical) and pick your charging circuit upgrade method/s (and do them) before you proceed with the alternator upgrade.

Choose your alternator carefully; the "100% New!" units are just as variable in quality as the "remanufactured" ones.

 

[matthon]

Installing efi should go hand in hand with charging, power, ground, wiring upgrades, imo.

 

[darndart]

The '88-'91 truck/van alternator is a wise pick, preferably the (Nippon)Denso 40/90 or 50/120 unit. The 40/90 is more than plenty unless you're running massive amounts of electrical equipment (giant stereo, lights everywhere, dual A/C, etc). The lower first figure indicates output capacity at idle, higher second figure is the max output rating at speed.

All '70-up regulators look alike, but are not all the same; none of the pre-'79 ones will dependably or durably handle the higher field current draw of the '79-up alternators, and there was another field current upgrade in '89. So to avoid cooking the regulator and conking out the charging system while you're in the middle of using it, install this kind of HD adjustable regulator.

To avoid an expensive and sad car-b-que (wire fire), read this (skip the halfaѕѕed, crummy advice from those dillweeds at Mad Electrical) and pick your charging circuit upgrade method/s (and do them) before you proceed with the alternator upgrade.

Choose your alternator carefully; the "100% New!" units are just as variable in quality as the "remanufactured" ones.

Thanks for the excellent advice, I think I’m gonna do pretty much exactly what you just stated. Sounds like a great plan to me.

 

[darndart]

The '88-'91 truck/van alternator is a wise pick, preferably the (Nippon)Denso 40/90 or 50/120 unit. The 40/90 is more than plenty unless you're running massive amounts of electrical equipment (giant stereo, lights everywhere, dual A/C, etc). The lower first figure indicates output capacity at idle, higher second figure is the max output rating at speed.

All '70-up regulators look alike, but are not all the same; none of the pre-'79 ones will dependably or durably handle the higher field current draw of the '79-up alternators, and there was another field current upgrade in '89. So to avoid cooking the regulator and conking out the charging system while you're in the middle of using it, install this kind of HD adjustable regulator.

To avoid an expensive and sad car-b-que (wire fire), read this (skip the halfaѕѕed, crummy advice from those dillweeds at Mad Electrical) and pick your charging circuit upgrade method/s (and do them) before you proceed with the alternator upgrade.

Choose your alternator carefully; the "100% New!" units are just as variable in quality as the "remanufactured" ones.

One more question, do you leave the existing power wire hooked up to the alternator and then add the twin 10 gauge wires with fuses? Or do you not hook up the original power wire and just use the twin 10 gauge wires with fuses?

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

Careful there,
slantsixdan said; “You can do it quickly and cheaply by running two 10ga wires with ring terminals at each end directly from the alternator's output terminal to the battery + terminal. Each of these 10ga wires must have two 50A fuses, one located within inches of the alternator output terminal and the other located within inches of the battery + terminal.”

That’s a variation of the old lazy “Shunt wire” approach, very dangerous, as it not only bypasses/defeats the ammeter, it also bypasses/defeats all factory circuit protection for all unfused 12ga dash harness wiring (the stock fusible link), when paralleled over the top of the stock charge path. Wires will burn in the event of a short anywhere in the stock unfused wiring with this shunt wire in place, no matter if the shunt wire(s) contains its own fuse(s)/fusible link(s). There are much better ways to upgrade this charge/load distribution path wiring and keep full and correct circuit protection in place for the rest of the stock wiring.

 

[MadScientistMat]

The adjustable regulator I came up with doesn't look as nice as the one in Dan's link, but I designed it around controlling the later truck alternator and you can adjust it while installed with the engine running.

 

[slantsixdan]

One more question, do you leave the existing power wire hooked up to the alternator and then add the twin 10 gauge wires with fuses? Or do you not hook up the original power wire and just use the twin 10 gauge wires with fuses?

Leave the original power wire off; just tape it back. And oh yeah, DERP, get @MadScientistMat 's regulator!

 

[slantsixdan]

the old lazy “Shunt wire” approach, very dangerous, as it not only bypasses/defeats the ammeter, it also bypasses/defeats all factory circuit protection for all unfused 12ga dash harness wiring (the stock fusible link), when paralleled over the top of the stock charge path.

…which is why the stock charge path is taken out of the system by not connecting the original B+ wire to the alternator.

 

[abodyjoe]

i went with a denso.
MRE - 60 amp Alternator Kit
MRE - Denso Pigtail Harness for Denso 210-0106 Alternators

i have a @crackedback charge wire kit too..

 

[crackedback]

And away we go... LOL

EFI, you might need to pull power at the battery, using it as a buffer, to quiet noise from interrupting your EFI controller. The Denso alternators are all I run on my stuff, toyota pu alternators with a single pulley or get the larger one and find an alternator shop and trade a serpentine pulley for a grooved. Easy swap.

I do the shunt wire and have done things different now that incorporates the factory protection (does the factory link really protect anything, said many cooked dash harnesses over the years). Whether it gets smoked by 40-50 or 70-80 amps, it's still burnt. The Ign wire is a real trouble spot in the dash harness.

IMO, the OEM design/path is a trash can approach. Potential for a 50amp load going through a connector that shouldn't see more than about 20, maybe 25... very smart. Bean counters.
Plenty of mopars with AC in warm environments met an early boneyard death because of the charging system.

Pick your parts, pay your money.

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

…which is why the stock charge path is taken out of the system by not connecting the original B+ wire to the alternator.

Where is this mentioned in your linked slantsix.org posting from 24-years ago, not seeing it. Simply disconnecting the stock alternator wire only, leaves all stock running loads at the main splice drawing current through the ammeter from the battery via the bulkhead Packard terminals. Haven’t really addressed the weakest link in this system, charge path BH terminations. And current stressing the ammeter and related connections, other changes need to take place with this "shunt wire" approach.

 

[goldduster318]

Delco 12SI, 94 Amp, 1984 305 Camaro Application, Remy 91053. It makes 70 amps at idle, I have 14.3V virtually always. I had run the 78A 12si for years, it was an auto parts cheapie and still ran everything alright, just started to have some squeaking from the bearing.

I run a 6 GA wire from there to the starter relay. This is a 3-wire application so you feed the original blue wire to one of the pins.

I welded part of a GM universal chrome bracket to the original lower bracket, and you flip the original bracket with 3 bolt holes upside down and trim off one of them, longer bolt, and some spacers and you're set.

 

[slantsixdan]

Where is this mentioned in your linked slantsix.org posting from 24-years ago

Yep, good point; I've edited that post to make it explicit; thanks.

Simply disconnecting the stock alternator wire only, leaves all stock running loads at the main splice drawing current through the ammeter from the battery visa the bulkhead Packard terminals.

Sure, and that's a separate set of upgrades addressed with a bunch of options in the .org posting.

Haven’t really addressed the weakest link in this system, charge path BH terminations.

That's addressed by taking the stock charging line out of service. The double-fused lines from alternator to battery bypass the bulkhead.