Alternator wiring 66 Dodge Dart
- Thread starter tom jargstorf
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I don't comprehend hieroglyphics. What is the question. Do you have wiring diagrams? If not wander over to "MyMopar" and download one of the two-page aftermarket diagrams. These are not often as detailed or complete as OEM but somewhat easier to follow at times
Also wander around there and see if they have a 66 service manual posted. You may have to settle for Doge / vs Plymouth, etc
The two you have in your hand appear to be the ammeter connections. BE CAREFUL. They are hot at all times, large amp capacity, and ARE NOT FUSED. If you are trying to fire the car with the instrument cluster out, bolt then together and tape them off.
I haven't a clue what you are getting at in the bottom photo
Also wander around there and see if they have a 66 service manual posted. You may have to settle for Doge / vs Plymouth, etc
The two you have in your hand appear to be the ammeter connections. BE CAREFUL. They are hot at all times, large amp capacity, and ARE NOT FUSED. If you are trying to fire the car with the instrument cluster out, bolt then together and tape them off.
I haven't a clue what you are getting at in the bottom photo
tom jargstorf
Member
tom jargstorf
Member
Sorry for the slow reply I had trouble texting what I wanted to ask and I could only add the pictures, was looking to upgraded to a higher amp alternator and wires also bypassing the ammeter. The thing that's confusing me is some images that I've seen on the internet show three wires on one side of the ammeter(black wire) and one single one for the red, and mine only has one on each one so my question is the black wire from the alternator (which is the one I want to upgrade to a higher 10awg wire) have any other wire spliced into the black wire before he gets to the ammeter. The one thing that gives me a little bit of problems with working on this car is this is a Canadian 66 Plymouth Valiant which is the body style of a USA 66 dodge dart not sure the wiring are different from one or the other. Sorry again for the slow delay was off work last week so had a rough day on the first day back.
tom jargstorf
Member
Would like to add that I was going to change to electronic voltage regulator from mechanical regulator so I would like to know if I should upgrade the green wire from the alternator field to the voltage regulator and also would it be a good idea to upgrade from the blue wire coming out of the voltage regulator going to the firewall plug and inside the car. Also was going to go from the alternator to the starter relay with an 8awg fuse link wire. Hope I'm not confusing the hell out of you but I probably am...lol. I would also like to thank you for sending me the wire schematics 67dart273.
On your '66 Dart, you are seeing the standard wiring for that car.
The Black wire from the alternator does not go directly to the ammeter. It goes to the main splice.
The main splice is a welded junction joining the power sources (alternator and battery) with the feeds to the circuits.
Power circuits for a '66 Dart (hardtop or sedan)
The Black wire from the alternator does not go directly to the ammeter. It goes to the main splice.
The main splice is a welded junction joining the power sources (alternator and battery) with the feeds to the circuits.
Power circuits for a '66 Dart (hardtop or sedan)
Some information on how the two regulation systems work here:
Identifying Chrysler Alternators (1960-1976)
Purpose of fusible links discussed here
Fusible Links in Charging Systems with Ammeter
An 8 gage fusible link will not protect 10 and 12 gage wires.
Identifying Chrysler Alternators (1960-1976)
Purpose of fusible links discussed here
Fusible Links in Charging Systems with Ammeter
An 8 gage fusible link will not protect 10 and 12 gage wires.
tom jargstorf
Member
Thank you for your help Mattax this is the alternator that came with the car
tom jargstorf
Member
tom jargstorf
Member
Can I ask you then would I be able to disconnect the wires off the welded Junction and just add them to my new 10 gauge wire I was planning to add through the firewall with a ring connector and then continuing the 10 gauge wire to the starter relay
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
OK that alternator is a later model known as "isolated field" and often incorrectly called "dual field." That started in 1970 with the electronic regulator. By adding one wire you can convert from the old 66 style wiring/ regulator to the 70 and later electronic
So you have two options
1....If you have a good VR that belongs on the 66 (pre 70) you can ground either of the two field connections, connect your green field wire (from the VR) to the remaining field, and of course the black no 10 output wire to the stud. I have no idea what might be spliced in
2....By adding a second "switched ignition run" wire, that is 12V that comes alive from the key in "run" and run that to one of the alternator field connections, you can then convert to a 70/ later electronic regulator
So you have two options
1....If you have a good VR that belongs on the 66 (pre 70) you can ground either of the two field connections, connect your green field wire (from the VR) to the remaining field, and of course the black no 10 output wire to the stud. I have no idea what might be spliced in
2....By adding a second "switched ignition run" wire, that is 12V that comes alive from the key in "run" and run that to one of the alternator field connections, you can then convert to a 70/ later electronic regulator
It originally was an isolated field alternator.
Is it now?
Verify with an ohmeter. (see Identifying Chrysler Alternators (1960-1976) if you havent yet.)
You may need a brush with terminal and insulator to convert it back to an isolated field if its not and that's what you really want.
If you want to run a parallel wire to the alternator output wire (R6), yes it can be attached to the ammeter's stud with a ring terminal. Be sure to have excellent crimps and well insulated and routed. If running parallel, 12 gage is plenty and will be easier to work with. If running as a new R6, then 10 ga SAE or 10 AWG (better) will be a good idea assuming factory loads.
I don't see why you would need to a 10 ga wire to the starter relay bypassing the ammeter and fusible link. The battery doesn't run the car. It just for starting and when the alternator can't supply power. The ammeter shows how much its charging or discharging. If its discharging while the engine is running, then there is something wrong withthe alternator or alternator circuit.
Is it now?
Verify with an ohmeter. (see Identifying Chrysler Alternators (1960-1976) if you havent yet.)
You may need a brush with terminal and insulator to convert it back to an isolated field if its not and that's what you really want.
What are you trying to accomplish?
If you want to run a parallel wire to the alternator output wire (R6), yes it can be attached to the ammeter's stud with a ring terminal. Be sure to have excellent crimps and well insulated and routed. If running parallel, 12 gage is plenty and will be easier to work with. If running as a new R6, then 10 ga SAE or 10 AWG (better) will be a good idea assuming factory loads.
I don't see why you would need to a 10 ga wire to the starter relay bypassing the ammeter and fusible link. The battery doesn't run the car. It just for starting and when the alternator can't supply power. The ammeter shows how much its charging or discharging. If its discharging while the engine is running, then there is something wrong withthe alternator or alternator circuit.
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Just to be clear.
Made some corrections to the insulation colors based on the Plymouth FSM and your photos.
Power circuits for a '66 Dart (hardtop or sedan):
A is Battery Circuit
R6 is Alternator Output
J1 is key switch feed
J2 is Ignition (switched run)
Q is for accessory circuits (almost everything other than ignition and alternator power)
Made some corrections to the insulation colors based on the Plymouth FSM and your photos.
Power circuits for a '66 Dart (hardtop or sedan):
A is Battery Circuit
R6 is Alternator Output
J1 is key switch feed
J2 is Ignition (switched run)
Q is for accessory circuits (almost everything other than ignition and alternator power)
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tom jargstorf
Member
First thing I would like to thank you two gentlemen for all your information and help it has been about 30 years since I've been doing any kind of upgrades to a car just getting back into it and I've never worked on a car this old...lol. things I'm trying to add to this car is a good sounding stereo with amps, Love My Music, upgrade my distributor from points to Pertronix and msd L6(which already added) and runs amazing. Also thinking of adding an electric cooling fan( so I won't feel nervous when I'm stuck in traffic when it's + 40) which we had a lot of this summer even in Toronto. Thanks again for the links too, points me in the right direction of what I should be looking at Reading
tom jargstorf
Member
Thought I post a picture of what I am working on, older picture of the engine
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
VERY nice
In theory you should not NEED any electric boost for cooling. That thing should sit there and idle all day long
If it doesn't puke coolant out of the overflow, first thing I'd suspect is accuracy of the gauge, or maybe you are just reading it "a little apprehensive". Borrow an ifra red gauge or other means to determine actually what the temp is. If nothing else, tape a thermometer to the upper hose temporarily, then tape something over that for some insulation.
In theory you should not NEED any electric boost for cooling. That thing should sit there and idle all day long
If it doesn't puke coolant out of the overflow, first thing I'd suspect is accuracy of the gauge, or maybe you are just reading it "a little apprehensive". Borrow an ifra red gauge or other means to determine actually what the temp is. If nothing else, tape a thermometer to the upper hose temporarily, then tape something over that for some insulation.
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