Alternator

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moparstud440

moparstud440

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Who's alternator are you guys using for your race cars? Looking for something that charges at a lower rpm (say 900-1200 rpm or so) that way it will charge while the car is idling.
 
moparstud440 said:
Who's alternator are you guys using for your race cars? Looking for something that charges at a lower rpm (say 900-1200 rpm or so) that way it will charge while the car is idling.
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Magnum or LA engine? I am useing the 120 amp factory on on my 360 magnum engine.
 
moparstud440 said:
440.
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On my old 73 dodge dart. That had a 440 with Indy EZ heads..I ran this alt. I had to make some new mounting bushings. To space it out so the belt was straight and had to cut down the main battery terminal some. But other than that it charged great and never had any problems. It keeps up with my electric fan, fuel pump etc.

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mopar65 said:
On my old 73 dodge dart. That had a 440 with Indy EZ heads..I ran this alt. I had to make some new mounting bushings. To space it out so the belt was straight and had to cut down the main battery terminal some. But other than that it charged great and never had any problems. It keeps up with my electric fan, fuel pump etc.

View attachment 1715724279
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I was hoping this had the internal regulator but the O'Reilly site lists this as using an external regulator....is that true?
 
I am using the power master 95 amp Mopar style 1 wire.
I have my idle set at 1100-1200 charges all the time car is running.
Extremely happy with it

part number 17519
Its the chrome single pulley one, dual pulley is a different part number.
I never need battery charged, even running electric fan and water oump between rounds
 
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race car? that smaller pulley will zing that alternator. I ran a generator on my 57 Ford and a few WOT freeway blasts the GEN light would stay on for about 5 minutes. Voltage regulator overheat?
 
I'm running the standard 3 wire chry alt. the local alt shop said that he could fix my alt so that it would charge at a idle.
and he did! It don't act like a normal chry alt. don't know what he did but it works.
Note it has the smaller pulley on it. BUT it had that pulley on it before i had him rebuild it.
 
I bought an alternator from Autozone back in 1993 with a lifetime guarantee...29 years later (having used that lifetime guarantee 5+ times) it is still what I use. I have never had battery charging problems when racing, so I assume it is working just fine.
 
Also to note, if you spin your alternator faster with a smaller pulley it will cost you some power....if you are good with that then that may be a solution for you.
 
flyfish said:
Also to note, if you spin your alternator faster with a smaller pulley it will cost you some power....if you are good with that then that may be a solution for you.
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haha… did the exact same thing on my W5 seal. Ate up 7 or 8 of them over the years. Lifetime autozone warranty.
99% sure where i wasted them was zinging them in the water box. Tried to be careful, but every once in a while the RPM’s can jump up in a big hurry..lol… those alternators didn't like going from idle to 7,000 in an instant
 
On the street I ran the toyota 4 runner internally reg one. Came with v pulley. Worked great.
 
What is the voltage at the battery with the current [ pardon the pun ] alt, engine idling? If it is more than ~12.8v, then the system is charging. If you are using a MSD 6 or similar CD box ign, they are usually regulated internally to work on about 10v.
 
I'm going to steal one from my Dakota or ram and also see if I can use other serpentine pulleys to work on my big block
 
I use a power master denso style alternator. They are small and considered mini alternator's. It charges at 1200 rpm and above.
 
I run a Powermaster 8060 (GM CS121) one wire on my street/strip Dart, it puts out 14.2-14.3 volts at idle, 12-1400 rpm's.
 
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