Am I cooked like this wire?

[MountainMan73]

This mark on the front housing doesn't look right.
View attachment 1716524944


You could check the resistance from the Batt terminal on the alternator to the housing. It should be isolated.

On the back we see the three positive and three negative diodes. The positive three are isolated from the housing. One looks like it may be out of place?

Since its already off the car, and I'm a little suspicous of that mark on the front and the diode, for now lets hold off on field current check.
You could remove the grounded brush, and then check for short in the field circuit by touching one probe to the fiueld terminal and the other proble to the housing.

You could check the resistance from the Batt terminal on the alternator to the housing. It should be isolated.

On the back we see the three positive and three negative diodes. The positive three are isolated from the housing. One looks like it may be out of place?

Since its already off the car, and I'm a little suspicous of that mark on the front and the diode, for now lets hold off on field current check.
You could remove the grounded brush, and then check for short in the field circuit by touching one probe to the fiueld terminal and the other proble to the housing.
[/QUOTE]
That mark I bet is from the bracket where that bolt goes through. I just tested the VR and I had resistance checking it the way you recommended.

 

[MountainMan73]

Yes a shame about the wiring. I think the electric is challenging for many, even those mechanically inclined. I only got a better understanding in the past 10 or 15 years. A big help from "Nacho" on moparts and some of the guys here too.

The damage to the green wire is pretty typical. Obviously the ring terminal is a repair or the replacement.
One thing that doesn't help is when we do mechanical work and the wires are "in the way". They get shoved, yanked and pulled. When you put a new harness in, try to route and support it like the factory. All those supports and strain relief were for a reason! A lot of us didn't appreciate that - I was guilty as any.

The damage at the connector is a lot more than just the ignition wire.
View attachment 1716524953

I could be completely wrong but it looks like when he or whoever did this bypass they took a solder gun and melted that wire into the connector so it wouldn’t move I guess. But like you said that whole dang connector looks awful.

 

[Mattax]

I could be completely wrong but it looks like when he or whoever did this bypass they took a solder gun and melted that wire into the connector so it wouldn’t move I guess. But like you said that whole dang connector looks awful.

Its possble there was a wiring short. Is there an electric choke?

 

[MountainMan73]

Its possble there was a wiring short. Is there an electric choke?

Yes I found a green wire that was cut. And another wire that was tied into a wire on the wiper motor Im guessing a switched source that went to the electric choke. Im honestly now after learning from you guys and diagnosing in agreement with that. Especially seeing that bulkhead connector condition. Two wires somewhere touched and that J2 wire just happen to catch all the load. Im probably wrong but that to me seems way more likely. That circle is where the electric choke was getting fed from.

 

[Mattax]

A1 is the batter feed and A1C was the fusible link. But this wasn't smoking as far as we know. On the other hand maybe the fusible link melted because of the short and without it, the J2 wire was next.

R6 is the alteRnator output and it looks like its been nhot enough to melt the seal some time in the past. One way this happens is using the alternator to recharge a low battery. Could also be regulator failed caused the voltage to increase with rpm. When that happens every item draws more power than normal.

J3 looks OK

G2 is to the temperature sender. It should not have got hot at all.

 

[Mattax]

Yes I found a green wire that was cut. And another wire that was tied into a wire on the wiper motor Im guessing a switched source that went to the electric choke. Im honestly now after learning from you guys and diagnosing in agreement with that. Especially seeing that bulkhead connector condition. Two wires somewhere touched and that J2 wire just happen to catch all the load. Im probably wrong but that to me seems way more likely. That circle is where the electric choke was getting fed from.

That one you may have to repair yourself. Wiper harness is probably not included with the engine harness. 1969 was first year for the combined neutral safety and reverse light switch. That three wire harness is available because I've bought it. That then ties into the another plug. I'll post drawings later. I got to work on dinner.

 

[MountainMan73]

That one you may have to repair yourself. Wiper harness is probably not included with the engine harness. 1969 was first year for the combined neutral safety and reverse light switch. That three wire harness is available because I've bought it. That then ties into the another plug. I'll post drawings later. I got to work on dinner.

No worries enjoy your dinner sir!

 

[Mattax]

No idea what the extra yellow is. Or the black line on the inner fender

 

[MountainMan73]

View attachment 1716524961

No idea what the extra yellow is. Or the black line on the inner fender
View attachment 1716524963

The black one is just an extension cord for my work light. The others I will have to trace and report back.

 

[Mattax]

This mark on the front housing doesn't look right.
View attachment 1716524944


You could check the resistance from the Batt terminal on the alternator to the housing. It should be isolated.

On the back we see the three positive and three negative diodes. The positive three are isolated from the housing. One looks like it may be out of place?

Since its already off the car, and I'm a little suspicous of that mark on the front and the diode, for now lets hold off on field current check.
You could remove the grounded brush, and then check for short in the field circuit by touching one probe to the fiueld terminal and the other proble to the housing.

Grounded brush has no terminal because it ground to the housing.

That recessed diode is correctly positioned. So check for shorts and the alternator may be fine. If no shorts then you check rotor resistance or do a field current draw.


Battery
This is another one of those words. All power terminals are marked B, Bat or Battery. It's just accepted. Same way we call it a 12 Volt system.
When diagnosing we need to be more specific. The battery should be at 12.5 Volts. The system should run at 14.2 Volts. That's because the alternator supplies the power when the engine is running.

 

[CRUZE 418]

OP, they will tell you to wait for a 20 or 30% off from Year One, but in all of there add on charges, it will come right back up.
Will Pzm you. Yes, that wiper harness, 3-speed or variable has it's own attached harness, not like a two speed.

 

[Mattax]

here's the 3 wire harness from the neutral safety and reverse light switch.

It may plug directly into the bulkhead connector or it may plug into an intermediate connector.