Amazing what torquing some bolts will do

Suspension, Steering and Chassis

  1. Dana67Dart

    Dana67Dart The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble FABO Gold Member

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    for a while I have had a clunk in the passenger side front wheel / suspension area when I apply the brakes at a slow speed like moving forward at a light then re applying the brake. Only seemed to do it when moving forward

    I finally got the wheel off the ground by supporting under the LCA with the tire off. i could duplicate the clunk just by rotating the hub back and forth.

    I used a stethoscope, wood dowel and my hand to isolate the clunk. the clunk is most noticeable on the lower, outer tie rod end but when moving the steering wheel there is no clunk and no excess movement in the tie rod end.

    The next noticeable location is the lower ball joint. There is visible movement between the spindle and the LCA BUT as I under stand with the ball joint unloaded movement is expected. (I did not attempt to measure the movement)

    Next it the UCA bushings at the body, visible movement and audible clunking.

    I did not find any clunking at the brake pads (that is where I expected to find main clunking)


    Ok so the front suspension is in need of a complete overhaul but not today so I started looking at bolts / nuts

    the UCR (cam) bolts were only torqued to at best around 40lb, in the FSM the procedures call for the Cam bolts to be tightened to 65 lb. both sides were less than 65.

    One of the caliper half cross bolts (on the passenger side) looked loose so I torqued it to spec (it moved about 1/4 turn with minimal resistance before torqueing) and the upper on the same caliper was loose but not as much. So I torqued all the caliper bolts to spec, most were already there but a few turned before the click.

    Took the car for a test drive and what do you know, no more clunk while creeping forward.

    I don't know what was the specific bolt that did the trick. but it goes to show that checking the torque specs on the bolts is probably something we should all be doing once a year or so.
     
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    • 67Dart273

      67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      When I inspected the brakes on the 74 Scamp, which I have not driven other than "moving" I discovered (drum SBP brakes) that the spindle nuts were both very tight, like, maybe, 30-40 ft-lbs. Yeh!!
       
    • Ricks70Duster340

      Ricks70Duster340 Child of the King, widower FABO Gold Member

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      I've seen that too. Will sure kill the wheel bearings!
       
    • krazykuda

      krazykuda Well-Known Member FABO Gold Member How-To Section Editor

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      I always chase my threads with a tap or die and then torque to spec... It makes things go together much easier and they stay together.... :thumbsup:

      Get yourself a good tap and die kit and use the sh!t out of it... No Craftsman taps or dies, they break too easy... I've had a nice Hanson/Irwin kit that lasts for decades...
       
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      • CRUZE 418

        CRUZE 418 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        I too have a clunk in my aftermarket front suspension, but it's play in the Rack and pinion. Haven't asked if it could be adjusted out. Not that many miles, but has been two years since install. Probably just live with it, it's just annoyingly, doesn't seem to bother the actual steering. Did it right from the start, took awhile to realize where it was coming from.
         
      • Dana67Dart

        Dana67Dart The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble FABO Gold Member

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        that was the hardest part. it is really hard to replicate the conditions with the tire off and the suspension off the ground.

        I even put a gopro under there to see if I could see what was moving during normal driving conditions. It did prove that there was movement in that suspension side!
         
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