Another converter thread

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Gr8polarbear

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In the process of getting a better converter there are so many options have no idea what to get. Have contacted two places, the first gave me a converter with 1800-2000 stall which seems low, the second place said yeah we have one it will be this much $. Emailed them about approx stall and never got back to me. So still up in the air on what to get. I know some people get high stall and say they are fine on the road this is not what i want i am guessing i want at least 2300 rpm or so stall. Just something that is a little better out of the whole and not a race converter. Anyone have recommendations or have similar set up? Here are some specs of the car.

1972 Plymouth Valiant
Weight approx. 3200-3400
Gear 3.91
Tire 225/70/14 26.4"
Engine: Chrysler 383, dual quad carbs maybe 1000cfm might switch to single 850, Stock cast 906 heads
Headers dual exhaust
Lunati voodoo cam, lift .494/.513, duration @50 226/234. lsa 110/icl 106
Compression 9.5 to 1
Trans 727 reverse manual valve body no trans brake
This car will be driven 98% on the street. Cruise at 55mph is about 2900 rpms i would like to be able to cruise at this speed for hours if needs be.
Converter in it now give a 3rd gear launch of 1900 rpm stall.
 
Put this in the wrong area is there anyway to move it to transmission forum?
 
Do a search. This subject has been beat to death.
 
I did a search but with each car has so many variables. I have done tons of searching including on here and most of the time i see where people are saying to put a really high stall and it will be fine. I am not looking to make a bunch of heat when not needed.
 
I did a search but with each car has so many variables. I have done tons of searching including on here and most of the time i see where people are saying to put a really high stall and it will be fine. I am not looking to make a bunch of heat when not needed.
That's not how modern converters work. There's zero extra heat involved until you get into a race situation.
 
have no idea what to get.
still up in the air on what to get
I know some people get high stall and say they are fine on the road this is not what i want i am guessing i want at least 2300 rpm or so stall
You admit to having no idea but guess it should be a 2300 or so? Why? 2300 ain’t worth the time and effort. Not at all.Not with what you have. Go with about a 3500 tight or even around 3200 tight (but definitely no less) by any number of manufacturers.
You call a company and ask for a recommendation with no idea yet focus on concerns about what you don’t want you’re going to get the low stall recommendations. It’s a street car, you want to cruise around normally without a lot of slip and mushy shifts (avoiding that is the reason you want it tight) yet when you hammer it you want to get the engine into the 3000’s.
Then you can get used to being giddy with a s@#t eating grin every time you hit it. Best thing is to read up, have an idea and then call.
 
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The main thing that i am worried about is the cruising at 55 mph and 2900 rpm. If the stall is above 2900 arnt you going to get slippage while running at 55 mph and cause heat?
 
You admit to having no idea but guess it should be a 2300 or so? Why? 2300 ain’t worth the time and effort. Not at all. Go with a 3500 tight or even around 3200 tight (but no less) by any number of manufacturers.
You call a company and ask for a recommendation with no idea yet focus on concerns about what you don’t want you’re going to get the low stall recommendations. It’s a street car, you want to cruise around normally without a lot of slip and mushy shifts (the reason you want it tight) yet when you hammer it you want to get the engine into the 3000’s.
Then you can get used to being giddy with a s@#t eating grin every time you hit it. Best thing is to read up, have an idea and then call.
I'm just gonna stop the preaching. Very few people ever listen anymore. This ain't the 70s anymore.
 
The main thing that i am worried about is the cruising at 55 mph and 2900 rpm. If the stall is above 2900 arnt you going to get slippage while running at 55 mph and cause heat?
Are you aware of: the countless posters here that have had the same concerns as you? And of the countless posters through the years who have tried to enlighten them based on experience? Set that worry aside.
Ask yourself, why so worried? What’s that worry based on? The last car you had with a loose converter? What you’ve read? Someone’s told you? The key word is “Tight” when it comes to a converter.
What’s the highest stall car you’ve driven or ridden in? One with a tight converter?
Once you’ve driven/ridden in a car with a tight higher stall converter you wouldn’t have worries or concerns. Positively 100%
That’s all I got. Hopefully other will jump in.
 
Do not buy anything less then a 3500 loose. If it were me I would buy a 4500 tight. factory 340 cars came with a 3000+ same converter as a Hemi or any HP Big block. 340 cars flash stalled at 2800-3200. Hemis and HP big blocks with the same converter 3000-3400
 
Are you aware of: the countless posters here that have had the same concerns as you? And of the countless posters through the years who have tried to enlighten them based on experience? Set that worry aside.
Ask yourself, why so worried? What’s that worry based on? The last car you had with a loose converter? What you’ve read? Someone’s told you? The key word is “Tight” when it comes to a converter.
What’s the highest stall car you’ve driven or ridden in? One with a tight converter?
Once you’ve driven/ridden in a car with a tight higher stall converter you wouldn’t have worries or concerns. Positively 100%
That’s all I got. Hopefully other will jump in.
Worries are if i choose the wrong one then the time and money it takes to change it out. Also if it is the wrong one and causes problems and something happens to the trans the time and cost of that. Been out of the hobby for many years and dont know about newer converters. The ones that i remember seem to slip a lot when taking off slowly such as on the street. From everything i have read those type of converters are loose converters and mainly used for forced induction so that they can spool up better. So mostly would not apply to me.

All of the cars that i have had in the past have had modified engines but all still with factory converters or manuals. I was told when i bought this car it has a stock unit in it. Brake stall is about 1200 3rd gear launch is 1900. Take off from stop seems to be around the 1900 and i would like it to be higher in the power curve.

I guess i am stuck in the mind set of stall over driving rpm produces heat which produces problems.
What i am getting is if i was to go with a tight 3500 I will have no problems even driving long trips at 2900 rpms and it will drive on the street like a factory converter.
If that is the case then that is the answer i am looking for.

Thanks for your advice.
 
Worries are if i choose the wrong one then the time and money it takes to change it out. Also if it is the wrong one and causes problems and something happens to the trans the time and cost of that. Been out of the hobby for many years and dont know about newer converters. The ones that i remember seem to slip a lot when taking off slowly such as on the street. From everything i have read those type of converters are loose converters and mainly used for forced induction so that they can spool up better. So mostly would not apply to me.

All of the cars that i have had in the past have had modified engines but all still with factory converters or manuals. I was told when i bought this car it has a stock unit in it. Brake stall is about 1200 3rd gear launch is 1900. Take off from stop seems to be around the 1900 and i would like it to be higher in the power curve.

I guess i am stuck in the mind set of stall over driving rpm produces heat which produces problems.
What i am getting is if i was to go with a tight 3500 I will have no problems even driving long trips at 2900 rpms and it will drive on the street like a factory converter.
If that is the case then that is the answer i am looking for.

Thanks for your advice.
You could get a tight 5000 stall and have none of those problems. Lots of people run them. Of course, you don't need all that. I think @Oldmanmopar nailed it.
 
Look over this request for information from Ultimate Converter Concepts. This is what every converter company should be asking to get the right stall for your vehicle and your needs. I have an Ultimate 5200 stall on my street/strip Dart and you would never know it was high stall. At idle I can put it in gear and the car moves. New technology is fantastic

Detail Custom Torque Converter Specs - UCC Ultimate Converter Concepts
 
I don't know where you are at in Ohio but call Perfect Converter Co. and talk to Bubba. Go a google search for the company phone number or PM me and I'll give his cell number to you. He will ask lots of questions so give him all the info you can on your car and he will build a converter to your needs. Nothing off the shelf will be the same. Something around a 3500 loose most likely would be a good guess. If your close stop by the shop and talk to him. Plus it will save you shipping.
 
You are never going to know what is truly correct for that car without all the car specs PLUS a dyno sheet, but, you can get really close and you will enjoy it a lot more.

The flash stall in a perfect world should be 500rpm over the peak torque. That isn't always possible and isn't always the best option.

With your car i'd recommend CALLING a quality convertor company. I've dealt with PTC, Ultimate and Coan. I've been happy with all of them, but Coan is at the top for me. If you look at a company and they don't sell a spragless convertor (which you DO NOT want for your application) they are behind the times.

My guess is they will set you up with a tight 3,500, which is plenty for your car. I doubt you are making peak torque above that. Matter of fact i'll bet money you don't. You will not notice any difference except when you mash it. It won't make excessive heat (and I actually data log my trans temps and had that exact setup.
 
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In the process of getting a better converter there are so many options have no idea what to get. Have contacted two places, the first gave me a converter with 1800-2000 stall which seems low, the second place said yeah we have one it will be this much $. Emailed them about approx stall and never got back to me. So still up in the air on what to get. I know some people get high stall and say they are fine on the road this is not what i want i am guessing i want at least 2300 rpm or so stall. Just something that is a little better out of the whole and not a race converter. Anyone have recommendations or have similar set up? Here are some specs of the car.

1972 Plymouth Valiant
Weight approx. 3200-3400
Gear 3.91
Tire 225/70/14 26.4"
Engine: Chrysler 383, dual quad carbs maybe 1000cfm might switch to single 850, Stock cast 906 heads
Headers dual exhaust
Lunati voodoo cam, lift .494/.513, duration @50 226/234. lsa 110/icl 106
Compression 9.5 to 1
Trans 727 reverse manual valve body no trans brake
This car will be driven 98% on the street. Cruise at 55mph is about 2900 rpms i would like to be able to cruise at this speed for hours if needs be.
Converter in it now give a 3rd gear launch of 1900 rpm stall.


so what companies did you call?

call a company that will spec one to your combo. dynamic, ultimate, ptc.....etc....

be 100% honest about your exact combo and your intended use.

not gonna be cheap but well worth the money.

my mild 360/904 3.23 gear combo has a 9.5" converter that flashes to about 3500rpm and cruises around town and on the highway like a stock converter. its not 1970 any longer.. converter technology has come a long way.
 
Contacted ptc and they said they have a 9.5 street/stip. Emailed them back on specs and have not got back to me. Tci said they recommend the saturday night special. Both places got the same information that i listed above. The one from ptc i know nothing about and the saturday night special, i might as well keep the one that i have in it.
 
Contacted ptc and they said they have a 9.5 street/stip. Emailed them back on specs and have not got back to me. Tci said they recommend the saturday night special. Both places got the same information that i listed above. The one from ptc i know nothing about and the saturday night special, i might as well keep the one that i have in it.
That saturday night special will be everything you don't want. Getting a good converter is a two way street. You need to listen to their recommendation, AND you need to tell them what you want. If you don't do that, you get what they want and that's usually not an off the shelf converter.
 
I had a TCI SNS 20 some years ago in a 727. Bearings went on it eventually as it developed a bad vibration. It’s name was befitting its quality:

“inexpensive, made of poor quality metal. Sometimes known as junk

Saturday night special - Wikipedia

Horrible name for a product when you think about it:rolleyes:

No B & M’s, no TCI’s, no Boss Hoggs and sorry to any Hughes users, none of those either.
 
I had a TCI SNS 20 some years ago in a 727. Bearings went on it eventually as it developed a bad vibration. It’s name was befitting its quality:

“inexpensive, made of poor quality metal. Sometimes known as junk

Saturday night special - Wikipedia

Horrible name for a product when you think about it:rolleyes:

No B & M’s, no TCI’s, no Boss Hoggs and sorry to any Hughes users, none of those either.
I SWEAR you should hear all the Chevy guys around here talk about "how good" the Boss Hogs are. They haven't a clue.
 
Contacted ptc and they said they have a 9.5 street/stip. Emailed them back on specs and have not got back to me. Tci said they recommend the saturday night special. Both places got the same information that i listed above. The one from ptc i know nothing about and the saturday night special, i might as well keep the one that i have in it.
If you didn't call, call and talk to Kenny. Give him all of your car's specs and what you're wanting to do with it. With enough stall a 9.5" will work great. I had a 9.5" Edge Racing Converters that flashed 5400 (do you know how to check the flash?), my car went 6.57 in the 1/8 with it. Unfortunately, it didn't last but about four years behind the 408. In the converters defense it only cost about $450 and made a bunch of 1/8 mile passes, in a street car it would've lasted a lifetime.
 
Contacted ptc and they said they have a 9.5 street/stip. Emailed them back on specs and have not got back to me. Tci said they recommend the saturday night special. Both places got the same information that i listed above. The one from ptc i know nothing about and the saturday night special, i might as well keep the one that i have in it.

Been down the TCI road. Junk, stay away.
PTC is legit. I've run a couple of them. Very good units and great people to deal with. PTC also has very competitive pricing.
 
The last convertor I had built I called 5 different places and got different recommendations from each. A few were close, but 2 were kinda out in left field. I had an idea of what I wanted before I asked, but wanted to see what the companies recommended. I ended up going with one that was close to what I thought I needed. It's a race only car and the new convertor didn't really pick up anything over the old one, but it's deadly consistent. Kind of like camshaft recommendation, just went thru that and had a few close together and 2 that were way different than the other recommendation. Find a reputable convertor company and tell them what you have and what you want to do with it.
 
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