RAYS 69 MOPAR
Well-Known Member
The flywheel that you attached to weight to what are your feelings about putting the weight screwed on ???
Any one use the 440 source flywheels
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yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I've never had bolt on weight on a FW, but I can't tell you how many cranks I've balanced with bolt on weight on the damper.
Never had an issue with it.
Use lock tite on final assembly and don't look back. And of course, torque the bolts.
Never had an issue with it.
Use lock tite on final assembly and don't look back. And of course, torque the bolts.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
BTW, unless you are down on power, have a 2.44 first gear, a 3.08 rear gear or all 3, why not aluminum?
Those heavy FW's just beat the tire up.
If it's just a DD, steel is ok.
Those heavy FW's just beat the tire up.
If it's just a DD, steel is ok.
RAYS 69 MOPAR
Well-Known Member
It's behind mild 360 car shows and A few scratches here and there
RAYS 69 MOPAR
Well-Known Member
PS how can you be at 150 shipped to your door
adriver
Blazing Apostle
So you need an externally balanced flywheel? (Not "neutral")
All I can tell you is that I bit the bullet and had Brewer's sell me one a new one.
They balanced it for a factory cast 440 motor and it worked like a charm.
People were not encouraging about just hanging a different flywheel on the motor.
But I figured this is done all the time with torque converter being swapped around, why not with a fly wheel?
Brewer's knows their stuff.
If I had a local machine shop drill a flywheel it might not have worked.
All I can tell you is that I bit the bullet and had Brewer's sell me one a new one.
They balanced it for a factory cast 440 motor and it worked like a charm.
People were not encouraging about just hanging a different flywheel on the motor.
But I figured this is done all the time with torque converter being swapped around, why not with a fly wheel?
Brewer's knows their stuff.
If I had a local machine shop drill a flywheel it might not have worked.
daliant
Befuddled
The weight they give you is generic and a little heavy but for a street driver it'll be fine. Like the ad says Brewers sells a more accurate weight if your worried about it.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
It's hard to beat.
Concerning the balance part of it. I can tell you, the factory balance job is so sorry you can barely say it was balanced. I was told Chrysler used "mass balancing" and I never spent any time doing the research on it. Point is, the balance is so far off that if you have one that shakes, I would say the crank was never even up on a balancer.
I did all my balance jobs to 4 grams on the street and tried to get down to a gram on the race crap but you are really picking the pepper out of the fly poop. To get both ends of the crank to a gram, especially with a clutch is just about unreal. Most people don't balance the disc. You should. They can be off a bunch. Every time you push the clutch in, the disc and the crank change position, thus changing the balance.
Again, hundreds of thousands of clutches and flywheels get changed without a balance job and an amazingly high percentage of them never have an issue.
You should be ok with the 440 source stuff and the bolt on weight.
j par
Well-hung Member
My 360 is neutrally balanced and I bought the 440 Source flywheel and threw out the wight to leave it neutrally balanced and it has worked fine for me. I recall it being around 179 plus shipping.
marksmopar1
Well-Known Member
The 360 I built required the balanced FW, I took a zero balanced used unit from a 318-340 and had a machinist drill the three holes in the correct spot. The specs are in the Mopar Performance book, Chassis one I believe, work like a charm,,,,never an issue. But if you have your 360 now zero balance....bolt it on and go with a zero balance FW
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