Any way this isn't a crack?

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Cuda416 said:
Dang it, the "run" distracted me. Thanks for spotting that...


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Honestly I'm pretty sure your kid wants to drive the car, I would redo the head and run it find another block in the mean time to build and when the time comes at least you have a redone head to slap on your fresh block. I had a simlular scratch in the bore and just ran it that way. That crack at least didn't turn out to be a crack which is good.
 
Slantsix64 said:
Honestly I'm pretty sure your kid wants to drive the car, I would redo the head and run it find another block in the mean time to build and when the time comes at least you have a redone head to slap on your fresh block. I had a simlular scratch in the bore and just ran it that way. That crack at least didn't turn out to be a crack which is good.
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Well you're not wrong, he's chompin' at the bit and I don't blame him. I am concerned we're going to throw this thing together and it could toss a rod though the side. Probably not likely with the 60 hp this thing might produce on steroids, going downhill with a 80 Mph tailwind, but still a blow.

When you say the "crack didn't turn out to be a crack", did you see this post?

Any way this isn't a crack?

That's what has my attention at the moment. The original "crack" just turned out to be a stain of some sort.

Thanks
 
I have seen that sort of transverse "crack" develop when atmospheric moisture, condensed in a cylinder that had open to atmosphere valves, and sat in the cylinder over a long period of time. Granted I have only seen it in a V8; but a slanty is half a V12 right?. The moisture etched the wall, and it looked like a crack, and I could even sorta catch a fingernail in it, cuz metal was in fact missing. But it wasn't a crack.
I have seen what happens to a cylinder when water freezes in the jacket, and the frost-plugs didn't pop. And it can be ugly. Your crack, if it is a crack, ain't that kindof crack. So what kind of crack could it be? That left everything else intact?
IMO, it's too far down to affect the engine performance in any way. As soon as the head is back on, you can pressure test both the cylinder and the cooling system, and see what's what. And all it costs you if you don't fully torque the headbolts, is time. And not even a whole lot of that.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I have seen that sort of transverse "crack" develop when atmospheric moisture, condensed in a cylinder that had open to atmosphere valves, and sat in the cylinder over a long period of time. Granted I have only seen it in a V8; but a slanty is half a V12 right?. The moisture etched the wall, and it looked like a crack, and I could even sorta catch a fingernail in it, cuz metal was in fact missing. But it wasn't a crack.
I have seen what happens to a cylinder when water freezes in the jacket, and the frost-plugs didn't pop. And it can be ugly. Your crack, if it is a crack, ain't that kindof crack. So what kind of crack could it be? That left everything else intact?
IMO, it's too far down to affect the engine performance in any way. As soon as the head is back on, you can pressure test both the cylinder and the cooling system, and see what's what. And all it costs you if you don't fully torque the headbolts, is time. And not even a whole lot of that.
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Sounds like a good plan. I'm going to pick up the head tomorrow and we'll go from there. If it doesn't work, then I have a new head for the next one.

Thanks everyone for all the input on this.
 
dingle ball hone it and run it. Ive seen rust stains eat into the cylinder wall that even a stone wouldnt erase. Its a slant, it probably wouldnt care if were a person.
 
Cuda416 said:
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If that was a crack, the piston, combustion chamber and valves would be clean as all hell from coolant getting into the cylinder. Also, cracks don't scrape off. It's not a crack.

My guess is, it has a broken ring and that's a carbon trail from the space in that ring. Seen it before.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If that was a crack, the piston, combustion chamber and valves would be clean as all hell from coolant getting into the cylinder. Also, cracks don't scrape off. It's not a crack.

My guess is, it has a broken ring and that's a carbon trail from the space in that ring. Seen it before.
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I'm not even sure there is a broken ring. The thing sat for quite some time and when the "stain" scraped off, I knew it wasn't a crack. However, this was spotted..

Any way this isn't a crack?

Which looks like a crack but like you and others pointed out, the carbon would have been steamed away. The theory I'm going off of now, is the imperfections in the link provided are a result of some past corrosion caused from this thing sitting somewhere for a very long time. The motor might actually be a low mile unit, the odometer indicates in the 60k region and that may very well be true based on the fact there is virtually no "ridge" at the top of the cylinder where the top ring stops. Once the carbon is cleaned up, you can't even catch a finger nail on it.

So, I'm going to pick up a head tonight after work and just go for it. If we get it running, reliably for a while, good deal. If not, then we'll need to locate another /6.

Thanks!
 
That's not a crack, either. That's some pitting. Dingleberry it good as you can get it and run hell outta it.
 
Just ask your machinist for some dye that he would use to magnaflux with. Or where to get some. Clean up that cylinder with some steel wool or wire wheel and check it. Simple deal.
 
RAT ROD AL said:
Just ask your machinist for some dye that he would use to magnaflux with. Or where to get some. Clean up that cylinder with some steel wool or wire wheel and check it. Simple deal.
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yeah, you just brush some dye "penetrant" on there. It's thin like water, and you would only need 1/4 cup or so. Then you wipe it off, or wash it off with brake cleaner on a rag. Then you lightly dust it with the "developer" powder (which just looks like white talcum powder to me), and the dye will seep back out of the cracks, and will be readily visible to the naked eye. I don't know for sure, but it doesn't look like it's very expensive, and it doesn't take any extra equipment, or much expertise to use.
 
Dye? I've never seen nor heard of that. The "magnafluxing" I've seen used an actual electromagnet and iron dust. A crack attracts the dust differently than a non crack area...
 
Cuda416 said:
...….This is how I've seen it done....
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IMO, between magnetic or penetrant methods for open surface defects, either is reliable done correctly. The circled indication in post 19 should show up like a sore thumb with either method. Determining the depth of the defect is something else as well as IDing any subsurface defect. It gets a bit more involved in training on just what to look for and determining what is or is not acceptable.
 
I totally agree the process is more involved than "this works and that doesn't" and largely depends on the situation. I'd juts never seen the "Dye" method before.
 
Cuda416 said:
I totally agree the process is more involved than "this works and that doesn't" and largely depends on the situation. I'd juts never seen the "Dye" method before.
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I once worked as a machinist in a company that cast SS and bronze propellers. They used the crack-checking dye all the time to detect surface cracks which appear frequently in the casting process. Once detected, they would grind or electrically "scarf" out the crack till they find solid metal, then weld it back up.
 
Cuda416 said:
Dye? I've never seen nor heard of that. The "magnafluxing" I've seen used an actual electromagnet and iron dust. A crack attracts the dust differently than a non crack area...
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Back years ago when I worked in Trailer shop , Would have to find and repair leaks in Tankers and ect, We would use something similar , As I remember it was A purple dye in a spray can, simply spray it on the suspected area and if any cracks the dye would penetrate the crack. Not sure if its the same stuff as the machine shops use. And maybe they don't even use it anymore .But a machinist I used back in the day did.
 
Like the post I saw a few days ago... "I learn something new every day around here!"

Thanks for the info on the "Dye" method
 
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