anybody running a solid roller on the street

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davescuda

davescuda

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Anybody running a solid roller on the street as a driver?
I was going to run a hydraulic roller but my friend thinks I will not be happy with it the hydraulic lifters. That I should go solid roller.

here's my combo so far.

340 - 20 over
10.3 to 10.5 to 1 compression
379 crank mopar crank off set cut so i think its a 381 now
Compstar rods
custom ross pistons
W2 race head long valve 11/32 stem just a little work done to them
flow numbers stock are 260 so they should flow just a little more.
still have to flow them.
Harland sharp or T&D Rockers
Cam comp cams solid roller or hydraulic Roller???
Lifters comp cams ?????
Smith brothers push rods
forgot the name of the chain.
victor Jr w2 intake
750 carb
ATI balancer
8 bolt Ram flywheel




70 duster 4 speed 4.10 gears 27" tall rear tire
may go with passion 5 speed
 
Running one in my pink 71 duster. Stock 3.31 stroke .040 over 340 10.7:1 ported Eddy's that flow 275 @ .600, strip dominator, and 750hp. cam is on mild side .550ish lift w crane gold rockers. Running 3800 stall w 3:91s hooks and goes nice. Little ticky, but a blast to drive. Was dynoed @ 450 hp
 
swinger340 said:
Running one in my pink 71 duster. Stock 3.31 stroke .040 over 340 10.7:1 ported Eddy's that flow 275 @ .600, strip dominator, and 750hp. cam is on mild side .550 lift w crane gold rockers. Running 3800 stall w 3:91s hooks and goes nice. Little ticky, but a blast to drive. Was dynoed @ 450 hp
Click to expand...

you are running a solid roller
if so what did you set your valve lash at.
 
davescuda said:
you are running a solid roller
if so what did you set your valve lash at.
Click to expand...

.016 don't remember cam specs 100% was already in motor when I got it, but it is a lunati voodoo
I'm thinking It is the 40200730 .555/.566 231/237 @ .050 I'm very happy with this set up. I tend to attract a lot of attention every time I drive it. Its way to easy to hot rod. Revs up unbelievably fast, rev limiter a must
 
If a little valve train noise don't bother you, you will love the performance.
 
Depends on teh cam - which madates the valve spring pressures. Keep the pressures down and you'll just love it. I'd also bush the lifter bores if you haven't - but that's just me.
 
the updated comp cams lifters you do not have to bush them, thats whats nice.
 
There's more to it than that and if I'm spending the coin on the special solid roller parts I'll always bush them. It's not a wildly popular position so I'm out at this point - but that's what I'd do.
 
also just added ,going to oil up through the push rod. So Harland sharps are out going T&D or Jessel
 
I have a small solid roller in mine. My cam is Comp's XR286R (248/254 @ 0.05 with .576/.582 lift). The rest of the engine: stroked 360 (410ci), ported Edelbrocks, 750dp. The car runs mid 10's and can be driven all over town.

As far as maintenance goes, I adjust my valves in the spring....that's it. I check it throughout the year (since I'm a racer), but it only needs adjustment about once a year. I like that the "street roller" grind is relatively low maintenance and easy on valve springs...yet makes really good power. I have never dynoed it, but according to all the ET calculators it's making around 540-550hp...1/8 mile times in sig.
 
davescuda said:
the updated comp cams lifters you do not have to bush them, thats whats nice.
Click to expand...

My Bores are not bushed. Been running strong for 4 yrs now. I check the valve adjustment every spring. No adjustment was needed this past spring.
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
Not sure but your going to need a bigger carb.
Click to expand...

Not necessarily, my car is running mid 10's with a 750dp and Proform main body. One of my friends that I race with has a stroked small block in a Valiant. He bought a 950hp carb to replace his smaller 750 Demon carb....the car ran the same (6.60 1/8 mile), even after tuning...but his wallet was WAY lighter.
 
flyfish said:
Not necessarily, my car is running mid 10's with a 750dp and Proform main body. One of my friends that I race with has a stroked small block in a Valiant. He bought a 950hp carb to replace his smaller 750 Demon carb....the car ran the same (6.60 1/8 mile), even after tuning...but his wallet was WAY lighter.
Click to expand...

Was or is running a 750? You have a 950 on it now correct with the victor?
 
davescuda said:
the updated comp cams lifters you do not have to bush them, thats whats nice.
Click to expand...

Just watch out with Comp's lifters. My builder ordered a set for mock up and they wouldn't even go in the block. The link bar hits the block and requires modification. They other thing was that the rollers were not pressure fed. So we junked those and ordered a set of MRL's Pro Plus lifters with the larger rollers. These are pressure fed and advertise to drop in without mods. Dropping them off tomorrow and putting them in the block for mock up so that will tell me for sure if these are what they claim to be.

Lifters.jpg
 
clinteg said:
Just watch out with Comp's lifters. My builder ordered a set for mock up and they wouldn't even go in the block. The link bar hits the block and requires modification. They other thing was that the rollers were not pressure fed. So we junked those and ordered a set of MRL's Pro Plus lifters with the larger rollers. These are pressure fed and advertise to drop in without mods. Dropping them off tomorrow and putting them in the block for mock up so that will tell me for sure if these are what they claim to be.

Lifters.jpg
Click to expand...

might depend on what partnumber you order from compcams:protest: and how drunk the machinist where at the engineplant back in the day.

and to stay on topic,just do it,it works well.
 
flyfish said:
Nope, 750dp with a Proform main body. I don't have 950.
Click to expand...

Always saw in your combo mentions "soon to be 950dp" Guess it never happened. I wonder how much you would gain. I know on dyno it's like 7-10hp
 
I've always ran solid rollers in the past, and I'm doing it with a current build. Why not? It's free horsepower, and a good amount of it. As long as you do a good job of controlling the valve train, with good parts & have your geometry correct. You're good to go, in my opinion.

Don't skimp on anything. I'd recommend PAC springs with enough seat/open pressure, install height & max lift for whatever camshaft you go with. Good tool steel retainers from Comp or someone else is a good idea too. I wouldn't run titanium on the street, but that's just me. 10* locks are the way to go I think as well. I know Crane got a bad rep for a while right before they went down. But I think their new stuff is great looking. I just got a set of their Ultra Pro solid roller lifters, and they are very nice pieces. Fit in all my non bushed bores beautifully. I also went with T&D rockers. But for the money, I think the Comp Pro-Mag aren't a bad choice either. Especially for a smaller street roller.

Like I said, I think the trick to running a solid roller on the street successfully, comes down to parts selection and making sure you've got everything set up perfectly. Do your homework and don't buy anything that just barely covers your tolerances. You don't have to go overboard, but get what works for what your building. Good luck!
 
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