Anyone Familiar With a Blue Wire w/ Yellow Stripe Along Firewall?

frumharlem

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I am still struggling to get my electrical issue with my 71 Dart resolved.

I changed my headers and had to remove the plugs and wires to access manifold. When I put back I accidentally mixed up the plug wires. I went through the flames out carb and starts with backfires.
Finally figured out that the plugs were mixed up and fixed that. But, since fixing order my MSD 6AL box (all was running for 3 yrs before headers.) toast. The MSD Helpdesk confirmed. I bought a new MSD coil and 6AL. I put in and found that I had no power to the MSD box. I burned my ignition switch out. I replaced that. Tech Support also walked me through getting rid of ballast. (or so I thought).
I regained power to the new ignition switch. I then replaced and added additional Ground wires. Rad core, fender, frame steering column bell housing to block and dash. Since replacing the 2ns Ignition switch and adding/replacing Grounds I now have an issue where power if fine, but as soon as I move ignition switch to accessory position, the main in-line fuse blows!

Now I am trying to figure that short out. I bought a short tracer set. But, now I realized I cannot use it, because it needs power in the blown fuse location to power the tone sender!

It is a shot in the dark about my wiring, since trying to eliminate ballast. I have the wiring diagram and cannot locate where on it shows a Blue Wire with a Yellow stripe.
F003E8B3-287D-4AB2-A78B-31CCF094CCE2.jpeg
 

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1969383S

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Blue and yellow trace leads me to Electronic ignition +12v to the module in run. Past the ballast! If required.
 

moparmandan

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Blue and yellow trace leads me to Electronic ignition +12v to the module in run. Past the ballast! If required.
Me too. It's definitely light blue and yellow. Usually ecu pin 1 to ballast. Not factory on a 1971 obviously. Hmmmm.
Was this was converted to factory electronic ignition at some point? Where was the ECU mounted?
Maybe some more pictures and info?
 
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Mattax

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a. This is a connector commonly used with a Chrysler magnetic pickup distributor
upload_2020-6-21_9-22-12.png

b. as mentioned, the blue with trace was commonly used on the connector used with a Chrysler/MP electronic control box connectors.

c.1. That '71 diagram is not a great one. Start with the ones in the factory service manuals.
c.2. You will need to draw your own ignitition circuit since your car has been modified twice.
c.3. There is no advantage in eliminating the ballast resistor when using an MSD. But if you want to, two piggyback terminals and a jumper wire will do it.

For c2, you can start with this schematic if it helps you with layout.
upload_2020-6-21_9-32-14.png


2.1 if the car has a chrysler ECU on it, then maybe its worth keeping the pentagon shaped connector and wires as back up.
d.2 If you're not going to use a Chrysler ECU as backup, consider removing the connector. Its just one more thing and extra connections to accidently ground or cause other wiring failures.
 

Mattax

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Now I am trying to figure that short out. I bought a short tracer set. But, now I realized I cannot use it, because it needs power in the blown fuse location to power the tone sender!
Are you talking about the fusible link blowing when the key is accessory?

FYI. In general.
Key in RUN powers both the Ignition 1 (run) wires and the Accessory wires.
* Ignition 1 wires power engine related items; alternator field, ignition, electric choke assist if present, throttle stop solenoid if present, etc.
* Accessory powers everything else that gets power only when the key is on. This includes wipers, heater fan, turn signals, etc.
 
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frumharlem

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Are you talking about the fusible link blowing when the key is accessory?

FYI. In general.
Key in RUN powers both the Ignition 1 (run) wires and the Accessory wires.
* Ignition 1 wires power engine related items; alternator field, ignition, electric choke assist if present, throttle stop solenoid if present, etc.
* Accessory powers everything else that gets power only when the key is on. This includes wipers, heater fan, turn signals, etc.


Thanks for you reply.
Yes, it was the "fusable link". However, in my case it was an in-line 25A blade mini fuse (aftermarket). I ended up just buying a new engine harness. Somehow, when I changed out to a new bulkhead connector, I jacked up some wires, with the whole reverse image in the service manual, based upon which direction you are looking from (inside or out at firewall).
Total user error on my part. But I am up and running!
 

Mattax

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Save your old harness, or if not interested, give it or sell to someone. Often useful for reference or parts.
 
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