anyone got pic of back of gauges/circuit boards for '68 barracuda/?

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Dave NEO

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trying to understand what I'm getting a few glimpses of with my head up under the dash..sort of. thnx
 
Like this?

IMG_20190529_161051939.jpg
 
OMG, perfect - that is ralley '68, right? I should have mentioned that. Either way will help get me on right track - got a loose fuel gauge wire I think and a number of bulbs to replace..and the headlight switch ...on and on
 
do you happen to know where fuel sender wire attaches or is maybe part of the plug conmnectors?
 
The fuel sending unit is part of the circular plug connector, in the photo above I believe it would be in the 12 o'clock position.
 
Get a schematic when doing this stuff.
No excuses when working on 50 yr.old cars.
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OMG, perfect - that is ralley '68, right? I should have mentioned that. Either way will help get me on right track - got a loose fuel gauge wire I think and a number of bulbs to replace..and the headlight switch ...on and on

it is bit of a hassel, but not impossible to take the complete cluster out, remove the front seats, you will have some room to lay on your back and reach up into the dash.
With the cluster out, ez to upgrade the voltage limiter, lightly re solder the pins to the circuit board, change out all the lights, generally R&R the whole thing.
 
The 2 large wires bolted onto the amp gauge are both firecracker hot at all times. You can do more harm than good trying to fix anything from underneath. If you do have a loose contact pin at a connector you'll surely have more than the one.
Free download factory service manuals detail how to remove the inst' panel for services. The headlight switch and wiper switch can be replaced without removing the inst' panel.
The pic provided above shows a aftermarket inst' voltage regulator added on. The OEM mechanical voltage limiter is inside this 3 post fuel gauge. This is the number 1 most common fault.
Pull the inst' panel. Repair and test everything at the workbench. Reinstall when plug and play ready. A solid state regulator, a dedicated ground wire, etc.., will make it better than original.
I don't stop short of 8 new bulbs and sockets. I replace wiper pivot seals while accessible and lube speedometer drive cable also. Everything I can do while in there.
I did work hard before I learned to work smart. Smart costs a lot more but... not only is this inst' panel more difficult to R&R than a standard panel but it is quite fragile and booby trapped in a couple of places too. There's a spot where circuit board is larger than the housing its on. Improper handling got me (can't find my pic). Anyway...
You don't want to R&R it repeatedly for one fault after another. My most recent mistake was cheap Ebay bulb sockets. Of course the first to fail was a turn indicator. Pretty much impossible to replace from underneath. Live and learn.
Everyone has their way of doing things. Service manual will state nothing about removing the seat. It isn't necessary.
 
Make sure you have someone to pull you out from under the dash when your done, ain't no fun!
 
Service manual will state nothing about removing the seat. It isn't necessary.

never said it was necessary,
I did say it makes a PITA job easier,
especially if one was doing the extras
like the wiper shaft seals like you mentioned....
 
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great info here. thanks all, very much. will have to be a winter project to give it proper attention.
 
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