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i have changed the seal but still leaking
Did you by chance put a new sending unit in and use the lock ring that came with it. If so, that might be the problem, the replacement lock ring is thinner and and doesn't seal as well.
I made a washer/spacer out of the side of a WW fluid jug, using the gasket for a pattern. I put it under the aftermarket lock ring and tightened it up. All fixed.
You will know when the gasket pack you make is thick enough, by the difficulty required to insert the lock-ring and turn it. Usually I have to use a hammer and punch to secure the ring far enough up the ramps, to squish the gasket into sealing mode.
@MOPARMITCH has NOS ones!
I've had to pull my sender out a couple of times so I made a little wrench for snugging up the lock ring.
Look close,perhaps the solder joint or electrical connector is the issue. Have seen 2 with leaking solder joints around the tube where gas line connects.
Mine leaked around the fuel hardline where it passes through the body of the sending unit. I cleaned it really well and soldered it up. It's been holding leak free for over a year.
JB Weld would probably do the trick if you are nervous about soldering something that has been soaking in gasoline for fifty years...
Thanks everyone for your help I think I might. Need to solder round fittings as have new gasket and ser
you should sell those. Lead solder has a melt point of 395 F, Gasoline has an ignition temp of 495 F, you'll be OK soldering.
Mine just started leaking from the rubber grommet that the wire passes through. Do I have to drop the tank to change the sender or is there enough clearance between my axle housing and the tank to wiggle it out?
Stands under the frame so axle hangs down. I place one stand under drivers side so remaining fuel goes to low side, and can work the sender out.
Did it today, very easy. So easy that I did it twice! Turned out that the plastic screen strainer dealey on the end of the pick-up tube had been shoved on all the way at the factory effectively plugging the end of the pick up tube. Found that out after leaving my driveway and promptly running out of gas... The second installation went much better after I yanked off the strainer and tossed it away. Now I know why the one that came out had no strainer on it... I'm not the first to go down this road apparently! The longest part of the job was draining the tank, the re-and-re (and-re) was barely a ten minute job. All good now. No leaks and my gauge even still works. Win!
That's cool... You should sell them...
I think that you can wiggle it... (that's what she said... )
Why not put some silicone sealer on the wire and grommet to seal them... I would try the clear RTV... Then you also don't have to pull the sending unit...
(that's what she said... )
The strainer keeps large chunks of dirt and debris from getting into your fuel system, running without one may open you up for dirt and debris from damaging the fuel pump and/or clogging your in line fuel filter... There is a reason that it's on there.... I would put it on and make sure it's installed on the tube in the proper position so it can filter the gas and not restrict your flow....
Ive had to double up on the gaskets on the last two Ive done.
Use nos or oem usued lock rings.
I'd rather that any gunk in the fuel system clogs the clear inline filter upstream of the mechanical pump in the engine compartment where I can easily see (and replace) it than clog a fine-mesh strainer hidden inside of the tank.
In the beginning, a single screen/filter in the systems beginning was considered enough. For those systems without mechanical pumps, that never changed. Another screen/filter after the mechanical pump to protect carb was deemed necessary. Many of todays vehicles have gone back to the single screen/filter in the beginning/tank.