Well, now you made me break out my magnifying glass! I have large display of Littlefuses. All my low Amp ones say 250v. I will follow discussion.

 

So far as I know higher voltage fuses in lower voltage applications are OK. So far as I know "the big thing" with higher voltage fuses is so that when they blow, they leave enough gap that there is no possibility of arc-over

 

I thought the Formula was Volts x amps = watts. so then
2x32= 64 watts and
64/13.5=4.7amps
IDK
Pull a load thru it and see what happens?

 

Direct from wikipedia.

Rated voltage Edit
The voltage rating of the fuse must be equal to or, greater than, what would become the open-circuit voltage. For example, a glass tube fuse rated at 32 volts would not reliably interrupt current from a voltage source of 120 or 230 V. If a 32 V fuse attempts to interrupt the 120 or 230 V source, an arc may result. Plasma inside the glass tube may continue to conduct current until the current diminishes to the point where the plasma becomes a non-conducting gas. Rated voltage should be higher than the maximum voltage source it would have to disconnect. Connecting fuses in series does not increase the rated voltage of the combination, nor of any one fuse

 

Your math is good but the fuse will pop if it has 2 amps at 5 volts or 12 volts or 30 volts or 60 volts etc. 2 amps is 2 amps.

Analogy...
Amps ( flow of electrons) would be the volume of water flowing through the pipe. The water pressure would be the voltage. Watts would be the power (volts x amps) the water could provide (think back to the old days when water was used to power mills

 

That's right It is current that is "supposed" to pop a fuse. I could be wrong

Once I thought I was wrong, but it turns out I was mistaken LOLOL

 

As stated, the amps don't care what the voltage is in terms of the fuse blowing.