anyone use powermaster alternator?

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furyus2

furyus2

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O.K. it looks like there's nothing wrong literally with my charging system. I just don't like my lights dimming at stops. I have seen the swaps with denso and chubby alternators, but I would rather keep the mopar style alt but I want one that charges at idle speed.Anyone use the powermaster alt? does it charge at idle? Thanks
 
I haven't used one myself, but I do know that the poor charging at idle is an inherent design flaw with the Mopar version alternator in general. Its probably one of the better ones you can get, but it will never work as good as a Delco SI series or the newer densos.
 
I have done the chrome PowerMaster Alternator upgrade, but I have also upgraded my system some to help with the dimming headlight issue. There are two upgrades that will make a significant difference to your problem. I suggest with an alternator upgrade, you do both.

First, the stock wiring will not be able to support the higher amp alternator. You will eventually burn something. The easiest fix is to run an 8 gauge or larger hot wire from the alternator + stud around to the large stud on the starter relay. Make sure you add a fusible link of the appropriate size of your power wire where you attach to that stud (these are available at your local parts house) This wire will do two things- provide a better connection for hot and charging for your battery, plus it will take some of the strain off the original power loop that passes through the firewall, through the inside gauges, headlight switch, etc. The downside is that your amp gauge will no longer be accurate (although you may still see some movement in it).

2nd upgrade and recommended no matter if your swap alternators or not, is to add relays for the headlights powered off that same stud you ran that new hot to. Those relays (one for high beam, one for low) will provide a shorter and stronger source of power to the headlights and will keep all the amps from having to run through the headlight switch and then to all your lights. Now the headlight switch will only have to run the parking lights, dash lights, and tail lights. You will notice that your dashlights will be immediately brighter (since all the amps for the headlights are no longer being pulled through the headlight switch). I went a step further and ran new heavier wire and connectors to the headlights from the relays. The original wiring is just now used to turn the relays on and off- very little power required.

Good luck and I hope this helped.
 
I used to have a chrome power master unit. Had the same problems you mention. I went with a GM one wire conversion unit I got from summit. The first one I fried because one of the damn mounting point slipped while installing it and it arced the battery. But it had a one year warranty so they sent me another. Been on the car for 2 years no problems and I run a hooligan bulb upgrade headlight.
 
Thanks for the replies. I think I will try the relays and upgraded wires first,then change the alt if I have to. Anyone have a wiring diagram for a 4 headlight system?
 
furyus2 said:
Thanks for the replies. I think I will try the relays and upgraded wires first,then change the alt if I have to. Anyone have a wiring diagram for a 4 headlight system?
Click to expand...

You should be able to use the one provided and just seperate the wires since one relay controls the low beams and one relay controls the high beam anyway.

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Before you go blaming your alternator for the dimming headlights issue, fix the problem that is causing it. Compare the voltage at the headlight socket to the alternator output with the engine idling. I'd be willing to bet it's actually lower than the static battery voltage (engine off). I've seen cars that drop below 10 volts at the lamps, and never get much above 12 when the alternator is producing 14.

Your problem is resistance within your wiring harness causing the voltage drop. Start at the headlights (and taillights) and work backwards cleaning the terminals, especially the ground wires. A ground down metal fingernail file helps to clean the connector sockets, and 220 grit sandpaper works great on the blades, terminal rings, and body metal. When you get to the firewall connector, inspect it carefully to make sure it hasn't overheated and melted (common). This is especially important to do if you do install a higher output alternator down the road.

Also, your negative battery cable should have a body ground pigtail. I've seen a lot of replacement cables where this isn't hooked up. Other things to look for would be crappy clamp on type replacement battery cable ends, crimp-on terminals and general wiring hackery.

A bigger pump won't help if the plumbing is clogged. The factory alternator has enough power to set the wiring on fire, a high output alternator will just do it faster.
 
This is how I did my relays. Hid them under my battery tray. (The third relay is for my Hella fog lamps). You can see my power from the relay going to the small fuse panel and to the three relays. In this photo, the new headlight wiring is not hooked up. Those are the wires at the bottom of the box. The ones coming in the top are the feeds from the factory wiring that trigger the relays.
relay_box.jpg
 
We have a chrome, one wire, 100 amp Mopar Tuff Stuff alternator on the Jensen. Headlights still lags at idle, about half as bad as the factory 73 mopar one.

I agree, run relays to power - operate any high load on the car first, run alternator to battery or starter relay post direct, then get a beefy alternator.

I ran a GM junk yard special on my Volare for years and it was outstanding on voltage consistency.
But, I also prefer very much the appearance and idea of the Mopar units though.

Someone on here recommended these folks for a good performing Mopar alternator:

http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/BPEalternators.asp

.
 
As others have said, there are MANY causes

1 If you have the later model squareback alternator, it in itself is not that bad, an improvement over the earlier roundback series

2 Poor headlight sockets, poor grounds at the headlights, and drop in the entire headlight harness, from the switch, through the dimmer, and the drop in the bulkhead connector. The answer is RELAYS. But do NOT ignore grounding, either.

3 Make sure the charging system is actually up to snuff, that is, that the alternator is putting out what it should, and the regulator is actually at the voltage it should be.

4 SERIOUSLY consider bypassing the ammeter. Read the MAD article for the hows and whys of what bulkhead connector drop causes

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Some of us, depending on what dash you have, have converted the ammeter to a voltmeter. On my 67 was an easy project:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=119480&highlight=ammeter+conversion

5 On my own car, which no longer has factory wiring, I used a junk Voyager relay box like the one below. You can also get similar boxes from Bussmann which can be configured in many ways. My box has relays for ignition/ charging, pump, headlights, and anti-theft, and fuses. It's all powered right off the starter relay stud, mounted on the left fender apron

image.php
 
Thanks for all the replies. I am waiting to hear back from Daniel Stern in regards to his relay kit. I will go through all the grounds as I rewire the headlight system with new headlight pluges and larger wire. After I do everything suggested, I will consider a different alt.if I'm still not happy.
 
Keep in mind that higher output alternators don't put out any more at lower RPM. They have a definite "curve". If you wan't more alternator output at lower engine RPM try a smaller pulley.
 
C130 Chief said:
Keep in mind that higher output alternators don't put out any more at lower RPM. They have a definite "curve". If you wan't more alternator output at lower engine RPM try a smaller pulley.
Click to expand...

Some do and some don't You have to look at the individual curves to find out. SOMETIMES, some of the "medium" range alternators put out better at low RPM than the heavier ones, and fall off at higher RPM. This is alternator shaft RPM, has nothing to do with pulley sizes or crank RPM.
 
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