Are these swedged or not? help

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gdizzle

gdizzle

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I am trying to get going on a drum to disc conversion for my 66 dart. 9 inch drums. I understand I cant just beat out the hub, but I have to reuse the hub on the new disc. Also I need to put in new longer studs. So I removed the drum and took it down to a shop, who tells me these are not swedged on, and that they are welded on, and all I have to do is grind off the weld and then the hub should push right off. So are these swedged? they do appear to be welded on. And I think the studs are not original so someone must have pushed out the old studs and put in these new RH studs??
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the hub looks tweeked. probably not concentric anymore. might want to find yourself a new hub. did it have a catch spot when you rotate it by hand?
 
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Looks to me someone may have already drove the swedged studs out at one time to change em,(like you said) which enlarged the holes and then tack welded it back together. If thats the case just knock em back out(damage is done) and just find studs with a bigger knurl to put back together. If the hubs are still good.
 
I can't see if they are swedged or not but I agree with the above, but here's the thing..........there is no reason to either swedge or weld anything, unless the holes won't retain the studs. The drum itself can slip on/ off just like a rear axle.
 
Somebody tack welded your drums to the hub, maybe that is what the shop guy was talking about.
 
So maybe or maybe not swedged? I supposed I can start grinding off the weld and see what happens. Also any insight as to the 083 on the studs? Does that mean Dorman 610-083 that has a knurl of .563? Scarebird suggests the 9in hub takes a different stud than the 10in hub. and that I need longer studs. So I bought 610-114 which has a .582 knurl. Are those gonna be too big? Should I search for new longer studs that have the same .563 knurl?
 
gdizzle said:
So maybe or maybe not swedged? I supposed I can start grinding off the weld and see what happens. Also any insight as to the 083 on the studs? Does that mean Dorman 610-083 that has a knurl of .563? Scarebird suggests the 9in hub takes a different stud than the 10in hub. and that I need longer studs. So I bought 610-114 which has a .582 knurl. Are those gonna be too big? Should I search for new longer studs that have the same .563 knurl?
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I don't remember the knurl size , but Rock Auto has all kinds. Like under chevy trucks ect. I had to get longer ones also when I did the Disc conv on my van.
 
gdizzle said:
So maybe or maybe not swedged? I supposed I can start grinding off the weld and see what happens. Also any insight as to the 083 on the studs? Does that mean Dorman 610-083 that has a knurl of .563? Scarebird suggests the 9in hub takes a different stud than the 10in hub. and that I need longer studs. So I bought 610-114 which has a .582 knurl. Are those gonna be too big? Should I search for new longer studs that have the same .563 knurl?
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I went thew scarebird route. I like em. looks like you are staying 4" bolt pattern. I went to 4.5 bolt pattern though for more rim choice(yeah I filled and redid the 71/4 rear end too so I don't have mis-matched wheels. What I did was drill the backside of the stud using a 1/2" bit then chiseled off the head and drove my swedged studs out the front, I went to 2" screw in studs instead of redoing the knurled type fitting and swapped up to larger studs. in these pictures I'm test fitting the newer LBP rims on the longer studs to check what lugnuts I'll need .
yours don't look swedged and it gonna be fun grinding the weld out of there. I'd check and make sure the hub hasn't been damaged but beating out the studs , if it's still good then your good to go.
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Looking at it blown up, I found evidence of the old swedges cut off (black arrow) but someone reswedged the new studs. (red arrow). Why the HELL somebody would do that is anybody's guess. They were only swedged to keep the drum on the hub going down the assembly line.

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Update., So I ground down those 3 weld spots, and the hub dropped right out, not swedged to the drum. However the studs were still swedged to the hub, so that was fun.
I took it to a shop and they got them out, and pressed in new ones. Now it seems that the new studs have a shoulder that is not allowing the new disc to sit flush to the hub. Not sure what to do, unless maybe I need to enlarge the holes on the disc? They are 1/2, but the shoulder on the studs is more like 9/16? help?? These were the new studs that was suggested I needed because they need to be long Napa 641-1560 (Dorman 610-114) help?
 
You mean the holes in the drum? Those are drums, not discs. If the studs they installed will not allow the drum to seat all the way, they installed the wrong studs. But yes, there's no reason you cannot drill the holes in the drum out bigger, since the drums center on the center hole on the hub.
 
Hi RRR, what I mean to say is the holes in the new rotor. I am switching from drum to disc, which requires me to retain the old Hubs. Which also means I retain the old 5x4 spacing. The new rotor hat adds 1/4in to the setup, so I also had to get longer studs which is where I am at now. I am thinking maybe chamfer the rotor holes? That might get me flush to the hub. But in reality i think the stud hole in the rotor needs to be upsized.
 
I would carefully take it off the shoulder of the studs rather than enlarge the holes in the new rotors.If you **** up the studs they are easily replaced .Actually you could just press them out of the hubs and turn them down in the area where you need them to be reduced in a lathe easily then press them back in or just work with new studs. Pressing studs in is a simple thing and they are cheap
 
We use larger studs on lotsa racecars, we just drill out the rotors/drums as nec.
The center-hub is the "register" to center the wheel, - the studs/nuts, when tight, supply the "sticktion" to hold the wheel, rotor, tight to the hub.

Those hubs are getting scarce and look to have had the larger diameter studs, prob cuz someone beat the old studs out without removing swage.
 
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