arp rod bolts and some spare engines

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67belevdere/225

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tearing down my engine and was missing the oil sling for the lower gear on timing gear
I was reding the slant six book and realized I didn't have one , I have 2 spares so looked at one and not there but one had it, yeah!. also someone put the front crank seal in the wrong way , it must a have leaked plenty. so I was fitting my arp rod bolts and did not fit.
I call arp tech and they stopped production cause they don't fit!!!, any way going to machine them a bit so they go in , maybe Im later models they reconfigured the rod ???
I have my original head and a newer peanut model side by side , the chambers look pretty identical so im going keep my head like it is . enjoy some pics

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There are different ARP con rod bolt sets depending upon if the rods are for a steel crank or a cast crank motor.
What is the part number of the ARP rods that you are attempting to use?
Also APR rods have a higher torque specification than the stock rod bolts.
Be sure to use a dial bore gauge to check to roundness of the con rod crank bores with the ARP bolts properly installed and properly torqued. They may need to be resized.
 
I've put ARP bolts in my last two slant 6 builds and had no problem. As John said, there are two different part numbers.
 
Sure as hell hope they haven't stopped makin' 'em over that...
:wtf:
 
They do have an interference fit as well. They are not specific to the Slant engine either, the bolts for the forged crank engines are actually originally for the 326-455 Pontiac V8 engines, they just happen to be the right length and the knurled length is the same also.
 
There are different ARP con rod bolt sets depending upon if the rods are for a steel crank or a cast crank motor.
What is the part number of the ARP rods that you are attempting to use?
Also APR rods have a higher torque specification than the stock rod bolts.
Be sure to use a dial bore gauge to check to roundness of the con rod crank bores with the ARP bolts properly installed and properly torqued. They may need to be resized.
Its for the forged crank , they acknowledge they had a issue , maybe the later model like after 1970 they worked ? , any way im sending them to the machine shop and having them resized
 
im looking at my 2 spare engines and the casting are different , I just notice 2 extra ribs beside the centre frost plug. there all 3 1967 models ( I think ) need to confirm tomorrow. with the slant six book.one the cranks someone grounded the **** out the end to most probably put the later lock up transmission.

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How many times can you torque a con rod bolt before its done? I heard 3 but maybe that's for lo-po stock bolts....and they already have 2 cycles on them when you get the motor.? Interesting topic. I'd just hit those ARP heads with a grinder and be done with them. Interesting casting irregularities on that same casting. Core numbers strike again? The C is the year, maybe 63? 59-60 was A IIRC for the slant. that "3 core plug" number is a 60-67 run.
 
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How many times can you torque a con rod bolt before its done? I heard 3 but maybe that's for lo-po stock bolts....and they already have 2 cycles on them when you get the motor.? Interesting topic. I'd just hit those ARP heads with a grinder and be done with them. Interesting casting irregularities on that same casting. Core numbers strike again? The C is the year, maybe 63? 59-60 was A IIRC for the slant. that "3 core plug" number is a 60-67 run.
Yeah, the date codes are in some of the pics he posted...
 
I did but there the rod fit is not great the cap dent go on right , and they need to be resized any way ,
I balanced them too they were all pretty close one was off by 6 grams now they weight the sane.
I have the wildcat adapter so I can use the 700r4 over drive. but im making a new spacer because the TC
barely touched the centering ring and had to shim it , had a vibration at 1400 rpm. very annoying.
 
the other block I have is from a old cop car from a 81 diplomat its the hyd lifter nodular crank.
that motor ran great and had ton miles and idling on it , I took it apart it was so cooked and warn, timing chain slacker than hell. what tough engine never giving up ,
 
cop motors are either clean as a whistle or beat to hell. Lots of idle time. IIRC the newer cars have a engine clock somewhere deep in the programming that you can bring up on the dash. I think there as a youtube vid that showed one motor with over 2,000 idle hours on it?
 
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