avoiding using relays??

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dustoff440

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Im totally rewiring my car doing my own thing. To avoid relays I am running much larger gauge wire and than necessary and just using an inline fuse for each component. Is there a problem with this??
 
You'll still be running the load thru your switches. With a relay, you're switches live an easier life because they are not seeing the applied load on the internals
 
running a relay does not mean you can run a smaller gauge wire. Headlights for example, if you run a relay, you run your large power wire into the relay and then on to the headlights. Your smaller wire to activate the relay comes from your headlight switch saving the contacts in the switch, reducing the current through that, the dimmer switch, and your bulkhead connector... so, what are you going to do about the switches and bulkhead connector?
 
running a relay does not mean you can run a smaller gauge wire. Headlights for example, if you run a relay, you run your large power wire into the relay and then on to the headlights. Your smaller wire to activate the relay comes from your headlight switch saving the contacts in the switch, reducing the current through that, the dimmer switch, and your bulkhead connector... so, what are you going to do about the switches and bulkhead connector?

no bulkhead connector at all I was going to run a 30 amp toggle on the head lamps one for low beam and one for high beam each fused
 
In general most people look for a way to use a relay not eliminate it.

cheapness and simplicity and less things to go wrong.....

I was under the impression that use of relays made it possible to not have to run more and heavier gauge wiring
 
cheapness and simplicity and less things to go wrong.....

I was under the impression that use of relays made it possible to not have to run more and heavier gauge wiring

This is basically true. but part of the trouble is the ignition switch and the switch connector, and if using heavier headlights, the load on the headlight switch and connector and the dimmer switch and connector. Only thing you have eliminated is the bulkhead

The argument "for" relays is to simply look at modern cars.......many (most?) modern cars use an underhood relay / fuse panel to shorten wiring and reduce loads on wiring going into / out of the interior.
 
cheapness and simplicity and less things to go wrong.....

I was under the impression that use of relays made it possible to not have to run more and heavier gauge wiring

Believe me, you will be sorry you did that if you follow through with it.
It's not as simple a solution as you think it is, and I'm already picturing dim lights and a burned thumb from the switch as some of the results.
 
I think relays work great for handling the load of any device. If you are running a high volume high pressure fuel pump the wiring alone just can't handle the current and in most cases the switches can't handle the start up current. What kind of switch would you use on the starter, some starter motors draw 250-400 amps. You need relays just to keep the wiring & switches from melting overtime. But good luck with your project.
 
relays are not a bad thing, and avioding using them won't harm anything, but its much easier on switches and stufff if you do use them; headlights tend to be brighter, and less heavy gauge wire has to be used, since the heavy load is from the relay to the headlights or whatever your running
 
The main advantage of relays is lessen the likelihood of cabin fires ( burning the beans/beings ).
When the relay is close to the item it supplies those heavy gauge high amp conductors are not only shorter but outside the cabin as well.
The pizzy little wires and inline fuses are comparable to manually operated switches inside the cabin that signal the relays.
The larger OEM wires though the OEM bulkhead connector are a very good example of what you don't want.
 
I think relays work great for handling the load of any device. If you are running a high volume high pressure fuel pump the wiring alone just can't handle the current and in most cases the switches can't handle the start up current. What kind of switch would you use on the starter, some starter motors draw 250-400 amps. You need relays just to keep the wiring & switches from melting overtime. But good luck with your project.

I was thinking of using a ford type solenoid for the starter
 
if the price of a few relays is going to break the bank on your build perhaps you need to find another hobby....
 
Redfish made a good point... Why not run relays? Personally I would like to keep the heavy amp requirements out from under my dashboard, and running relays can do just that. Relays are easy to replace, simple to wire in, and if you really want to be safe, run an entire fused electrical relay panel under your hood. Don't know about you but I hate having the magic smoke come from under my dash board...
 
I did just what you are proposing to do on one of my builds. And if I run my heater blower on high, the ignition switch is so hot I can't touch it. I am trying to learn from this and found a site called mad wiring ( I think) that helped me out.
 
Relays good. Car fires bad.

Money's an issue? Spend $2, go to the pick-a-part near you, fill your box (and your toolbox, natch) with all the relays and fuses you can fit. Buy a late-model fuse/relay block while you're there.

The price of high-load switches, heavy-gauge wires, and constantly refilling fire extinguishers will far outweigh the cost of using a fat stack 'o relays in your fancy-pants late-model relay block. On top of that, adding stuff later....cinch.
 
I was thinking of using a ford type solenoid for the starter

You ARE working on a Mopar, right? Mopar starters already have a built in solenoid. Or are you talking about replacing the starter relay? That again would be poorly advised, for a couple of reasons.

First, Mopar starter relays work just fine, and they integrate neutral safety switch or clutch safety switch features
 
Use relays.

I build relay kits for some components and there is no other way I'd wire headlights, electric fans, fuel pumps.

Takes a the load off the switch. That's a good thing.
 
With a relay, you're switches live an easier life

running a relay

In general most people look for a way to use a relay not eliminate it.

The argument "for" relays is.

Believe me, you will be sorry .

I think relays work great .

relays are not a bad thing,

The main advantage of relays is l.

the price of a few relays....

... Why not run relays? ...

I did just what you are proposing ............... the ignition switch is so hot...............

Relays: WHY AND HOW TO UPGRADE YOUR HEADLAMP CIRCUIT

Relays good. Car fires bad. .

Use relays..


I think the vote is overwhelming
 
Im totally rewiring my car doing my own thing. To avoid relays I am running much larger gauge wire and than necessary and just using an inline fuse for each component. Is there a problem with this??

I'll be lookin south for the smoke cloud.
 
When I first read the link I thought cool, someone is going to wire all of the high current stuff up through some Triacs (basically a solid state relay just doesn't go click click). Then I continued reading and visions of smoke curls from the dash shook me into reality. Like the poll says don't do it. Every wonder why old head light switches and heater blower switches were thing that seemed to break. High current causes heat in any connection or switch that is not absolutely at or near zero ohms. Lets assume for a moment that you are running standard sealed beam lights. High beam is 65 Watts and low beam is 50. At 13 volts that is 5 amps per side of a total of 10 amps through the switch. The is either 2 runs of 18 gauge wire (one to each light) or one run of 14 with a y connector feeding each light. Now I know your thinking 10 amps, a lot of switches will handle that and you would be right. But let that switch get just a little carbon build up and it then becomes a resistor that is having to dissipate the heat. The more it disapates the more likely it is build more carbon, and so on and so on. Just in case you're thinking that 65 watts doesn't get that hot, reach up and unscrew one of your 50 lamps at home. One last note, the above wire sizes have no safety margin built in. Remember the longer the wire the higher the internal resistance becomes and the less bright your light will be. This is the long version advising against doing it. Enjoy your car for a long time to come.
 
May as well light it on fire and call the insurance now. Be sure your policy is paid current.

The switched wire that activates the relay takes less than 1 amp to pull the coil in the relay. Think your going at it backasswards.
 
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