Back to the drawing board... stock low dollar 360

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I remembered you had talked about trying headers. When I went looking for the post, I found the ones where you had tried out the spitfires for fit.
Otherwise I was going to tempt you with a different set of headers. :D
I saved those headers from the dump :) They were going to be thrown away....
 
I saved those headers from the dump :) They were going to be thrown away....
From what I saw they have nicer merges of the tubes than some of the later versions. Glad you saved them.
I have a set of Headers by Ed that would be an interesting back to back comparison in the 1/4 mile. They're relatively easy install but hang too low for general street use.
 
From what I saw they have nicer merges of the tubes than some of the later versions. Glad you saved them.
I have a set of Headers by Ed that would be an interesting back to back comparison in the 1/4 mile. They're relatively easy install but hang too low for general street use.
I've never tried Ed's. I went manifolds only because of the room, durability, and simplicity. I may try to work with the drop downs on the spitfires, as they've been beat in quite a bit. LOL.
 
I've never tried Ed's. I went manifolds only because of the room, durability, and simplicity. I may try to work with the drop downs on the spitfires, as they've been beat in quite a bit. LOL.
My Ed's are pretty pounded too. But the flanges are all good. :) Just need to find them the right home.
 
I made my own plates and use 1 light/1 medium spring with no bounce.

Ace Hardware brass. Drill, Dremel rotary cutter, and file.
What I wanted was 16* advancement with the plate, and I used one light/one medium spring looking to have full advancement at 2400 rpm's. I'll have to take it apart and see what went wrong....
 
What I wanted was 16* advancement with the plate, and I used one light/one medium spring looking to have full advancement at 2400 rpm's. I'll have to take it apart and see what went wrong....
IMO the reason to use two different springs is to get an advance with changing resistance to rpm.
At this point I've lost track of which engine this is for! LOL.
But if your curious how this plays out to a 318 with fairly stock cam and good low rpm combustion rates, touched on that here:
1970 Dodge Dart 318 Distributor

273 Hi Perf package is a good example of a timing curve for a burn that needs a bit more spark lead in the lower rpms.
1967-273-4bbl-PP-Timing.png

In both cases, its better to have the long secondary curve into the rpms, especially with electronic ignition.

All of these are designed with vacuum advance in mind.
 
IMO the reason to use two different springs is to get an advance with changing resistance to rpm.
At this point I've lost track of which engine this is for! LOL.
But if your curious how this plays out to a 318 with fairly stock cam and good low rpm combustion rates, touched on that here:
1970 Dodge Dart 318 Distributor

273 Hi Perf package is a good example of a timing curve for a burn that needs a bit more spark lead in the lower rpms.
View attachment 1715247536
In both cases, its better to have the long secondary curve into the rpms, especially with electronic ignition.

All of these are designed with vacuum advance in mind.
I agree. I was setting it up for the 360. I tried it in the 318 for convenience. I do not run a vacuum advance on either motor. Timing mark would not stay still at idle, jumping around about 10*. When I revved it to full advance, it would hit full advance and then back off about 10*. LOL...
 
I agree. I was setting it up for the 360. I tried it in the 318 for convenience. I do not run a vacuum advance on either motor. Timing mark would not stay still at idle, jumping around about 10*. When I revved it to full advance, it would hit full advance and then back off about 10*. LOL...
With the stock ignition module?
 
I saved those headers from the dump :) They were going to be thrown away....
Why???
Put those headers on there! Make some horsepower! LOL:mob:
Take the cam out, send it down to Ken at Oregon cam grinding and I'll give you my same cam grind and special one off lobe separation. That thing will idle with the converter you have now and be a wildcat at about 2 Grand to about 6k...:thumbsup:
 
It's got a replacement ECU /coil is all, but using Chrysler system.
That MSD that I have makes the low idle timing Bounce Around. I was just wondering because I think that's because of the double spark thing that it does under three grand. It straightens out though for all in timing above 3 Grand and that's usually what I said anyways and let it drop down to wherever it goes. And I'm not saying that's the right way that's just the way I do it.
 
That MSD that I have makes the low idle timing Bounce Around. I was just wondering because I think that's because of the double spark thing that it does under three grand. It straightens out though for all in timing above 3 Grand and that's usually what I said anyways and let it drop down to wherever it goes. And I'm not saying that's the right way that's just the way I do it.
there is very little gains in ignition components - unless it's not working properly. I know a guy that went 9.20's off of the mopar performance electronic ignition.
 
And I might add I never seen a Performance gain using the MSD system at all. Had I done it over I probably just would have left the stock stuff, but I can't say I'm not happy with it's performance and it's an extra add-on features so it will stay.
 
Why???
Put those headers on there! Make some horsepower! LOL:mob:
Take the cam out, send it down to Ken at Oregon cam grinding and I'll give you my same cam grind and special one off lobe separation. That thing will idle with the converter you have now and be a wildcat at about 2 Grand to about 6k...:thumbsup:
Maybe this whole build will change. Maybe I'll go 11.50's so I don't need to put in a cage. It's a long winter here, i'm sure many ideas will pop in my head.

The plan was/is to go 12's with 2.94 gears, manifolds.
 
Maybe this whole build will change. Maybe I'll go 11.50's so I don't need to put in a cage. It's a long winter here, i'm sure many ideas will pop in my head.

The plan was/is to go 12's with 2.94 gears, manifolds.
I already cut my roll bar back out because it was pretty much useless. Unless I wanted to spend a bunch more money. Honestly getting the car to do under 11-5 consistently enough to get the track officials attention is going to be costly.
With a full interior car and a freeway gear I think it's going to be a long time before you wear the badge of honor, that is being warned about going under 11.5. I've done it once. At 119 mph and 3000lbs with me, there was a whole lot of room to improve. Like 3k for rear suspension and 3k for Edelbrock heads and 1k for this and 2k for that and..........:BangHead: and done.....LOL
I'm done spending, I just want to enjoy what I have.
 
I already cut my roll bar back out because it was pretty much useless. Unless I wanted to spend a bunch more money. Honestly getting the car to do under 11-5 consistently enough to get the track officials attention is going to be costly.
With a full interior car and a freeway gear I think it's going to be a long time before you wear the badge of honor, that is being warned about going under 11.5. I've done it once. At 119 mph and 3000lbs with me, there was a whole lot of room to improve. Like 3k for rear suspension and 3k for Edelbrock heads and 1k for this and 2k for that and..........:BangHead: and done.....LOL
I'm done spending, I just want to enjoy what I have.
LOL...…… Lately I've been racing my friend at the strip at test/tune. His 340 Duster goes 11.50's. Went my way, though, last day I beat his LS truck with my 318 Duster :D

P.S. - I wouldn't spend near them thousands to go 11.50's
 
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I do not run a vacuum advance on either motor.
Then heck, bring it in quicker, at before whatever rpm it sees max load.
Something like the tach drive setup but with a steady initial through 750 - 850 rpm.
The blue dashed line illustrates what might be achievable with a moderately soft primary spring and heavy long looped spring.
upload_2018-11-11_14-6-7.png


DC/MP springs and advance shown over here for some eyeball comparisons.
P4120701 Small Block Mech Tach drive
 
That MSD that I have makes the low idle timing Bounce Around. I was just wondering because I think that's because of the double spark thing that it does under three grand. It straightens out though for all in timing above 3 Grand and that's usually what I said anyways and let it drop down to wherever it goes. And I'm not saying that's the right way that's just the way I do it.
Likely the multispark playing games with the inductive signal.
 
You guys know the secret held by the slant sixers. Right?

Chrysler-3755201-Distributor-Dissassembly-_32.JPG
 
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