Backfire through carb - first start

[ScampNYC]

I meant jumping to the not-coil side.

 

[nm9stheham]

Ok, verified with the finger over the plug hole that I am not 180 out.

Got my timing set to 10 BTDC using the marks on the timing cover, and rotating the dizzy till I saw a spark on the number 1 spark plug with the plug resting on a ground.

Now the thing that is baffling me is that the ignition-on wire only shows about 9.2v. So on one side of the ballast I have 9.2V and the coil side I have 6v. The instructions with my dizzy say I need to have at least 8v at the coil. Seems I have a voltage drop somewhere from the path of battery voltage from battery, through ignition switch, and out to the ballast. I did verify I have 12v before and after the fusible link on that circuit.

I kinda want to figure that out later, and get the engine started now.

If I attach a jumper from the battery to the ignition side of the ballast, I get 8.8v on the coil side. Can I use this jumper to start the engine so I can move the car, then figure out the voltage drop situation? Any harm in that?

As above, yes, it will be OK as a temporary fix if you jumper to the ignition switch side of the ballast. You have run down that low voltage as a problem so that is a step in the right direction. Just make sure it is in a place where you can rip the jumper off in case something goes awry!

You probably know this already but if it starts, you want to run the RPM' s up to around 2k + or - to get the oil flowing. With the roller cam, that is one less break-in item to worry about.

 

[TT5.9mag]

Check all of your grounds. With the engine being removed, and replaced, sometimes grounds get removed and not put back. That will cause voltage problems.

 

[ScampNYC]

To eliminate all possible voltage drop, weird wiring issues, can I do the following?

Battery --> Hot (12v) side of ballast
Battery --> relay for fuel pump
Battery --> Alternator
Jumper from 12v side of ballast to coli side of ballast, remove once it starts
Disconnect all bulkhead wiring to eliminate possible issues

Sounds like it may help me get started?
I verified ground with multimeter at engine and body, multiple points.

 

[crackedback]

It's barfing back through the carb so the ignition system is working. JMO, worrying about things that don't matter much right now - voltage across the ballast..

Jumper wire from battery to the non coil side of ballast and start the car with a remote switch or screwdriver at starter relay. Kill running engine, pull jump wire from battery.

 

[TT5.9mag]

It's barfing back through the carb so the ignition system is working. JMO, worrying about things that don't matter much right now - voltage across the ballast..

Jumper wire from battery to the non coil side of ballast and start the car with a remote switch or screwdriver at starter relay. Kill running engine, pull jump wire from battery.

This^^^^^x100

 

[RustyRatRod]

NONE of this is going to work if it's out 180 or the firing order is off.

 

[ScampNYC]

NONE of this is going to work if it's out 180 or the firing order is off.

Yeah, it won't work if I forgot to put the pistons in too. I'm not 180 off.... nor is my firing order off.... We kinda went over that a few times.

Anyway.
I got it started! Running my simplified wiring situation, plus getting the initial timing set up better per your instructions, seems to have done the trick. Now I will have to figure out why my ignition 1 circuit was so damn low on voltage. I suspect bulkhead or ignition switch. Thanks guys! I'm very happy

 

[RustyRatRod]

Yeah, it won't work if I forgot to put the pistons in too. I'm not 180 off.... nor is my firing order off.... We kinda went over that a few times.

Anyway.
I got it started! Running my simplified wiring situation, plus getting the initial timing set up better per your instructions, seems to have done the trick. Now I will have to figure out why my ignition 1 circuit was so damn low on voltage. I suspect bulkhead or ignition switch. Thanks guys! I'm very happy

Did you check the voltage right across the battery to make sure it's not low?

 

[crackedback]

If that distributor has a separate OEM style box, those boxes will usually run on 6-7 volts.

Careful with the blue wire that fires the coil and loading things on it. That wire likes to melt inside the instrument harness... poof...

 

[junkyardhero]

Yeah, it won't work if I forgot to put the pistons in too. I'm not 180 off.... nor is my firing order off.... We kinda went over that a few times.

Anyway.
I got it started! Running my simplified wiring situation, plus getting the initial timing set up better per your instructions, seems to have done the trick. Now I will have to figure out why my ignition 1 circuit was so damn low on voltage. I suspect bulkhead or ignition switch. Thanks guys! I'm very happy

goodnewseverybody.gif

way to go man! now chase down those loose ends and you'll be well on your way.

 

[furrystump]

The bulkhead connector has a main power feed that tends to corrode then melt the connector. You can clean the connectors or by pass the power feed around the connector. Also the ignition switch has the total voltage feed through it. So dirty ignition switch can cause havoc. I think the total voltage load also goes through the voltage gauge in the dash. I know in 68 it does. I by passed my power around my connector and run relays for the headlights to limit voltage going through the switch.