Bad strut rod bushings?
- Thread starter Gabriel Larson
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Strut rod bushings.: Not ideal, but I've seen worse. So long as big chunks aren't missing, I'm thinking it's not your problem. (But did you check the back side of the bushings?)
You can't replace the strut rod bushings without removing the lower control arms. I didn't hear you say you replaced the lower control arm bushings, and am guessing you did not, since that would have been the logical time to replace the strut rod bushings. You need to crawl underneath to inspect the LCA bushings. I'll bet they are trash, since something is obviously loose. Will probably need to put the front on ramps to get it high enough to inspect the bushings.
You can't replace the strut rod bushings without removing the lower control arms. I didn't hear you say you replaced the lower control arm bushings, and am guessing you did not, since that would have been the logical time to replace the strut rod bushings. You need to crawl underneath to inspect the LCA bushings. I'll bet they are trash, since something is obviously loose. Will probably need to put the front on ramps to get it high enough to inspect the bushings.
Gabriel Larson
Well-Known Member
Put tire back on. Have someone put the brakes on and while looking from the top like you were doing rock the car back and forth. If the bushing is bad enough you will see it move a lot. (Like seeing the shaft between the bushing k frame)
If your pulling issue is while braking I doubt it is the suspension unless you have the alignment WAY off, or at missing parts.
My 321,000 mile dart needs front suspension rebuild bad. Everything moves, but it still stops streight ( OEM KH front disk)
If your pulling issue is while braking I doubt it is the suspension unless you have the alignment WAY off, or at missing parts.
My 321,000 mile dart needs front suspension rebuild bad. Everything moves, but it still stops streight ( OEM KH front disk)
Gabriel Larson
Well-Known Member
I don’t think the brakes are bad all are perfectly adjusted have checked the fronts 6 times now. Also have gotten 2 alignments done but no luck. It seems to pull right on acceleration and on hard stops. Will give the wheel trick a try to.
Well, your bushings need replacing for sure, although I'm inclined to agree with Dana67Dart that bad bushings probably are not the reason it pulls hard to the right when applying brakes. Grease on the brake lining on that side can make it grab. Other possibilities are brake lines that are rotted internally, one side more than the other. Or even a tire that has a tread that's about to fail and separate from the rest of the tire.
Edit: OK, now you are saying it pulls to the right on acceleration, too. That is not likely a brake issue, unless one side is failing to release fully for some reason.
If it were my car, I'd fix the LCA and strut rod bushings and then see where we are.
Edit: OK, now you are saying it pulls to the right on acceleration, too. That is not likely a brake issue, unless one side is failing to release fully for some reason.
If it were my car, I'd fix the LCA and strut rod bushings and then see where we are.
Gabriel Larson
Well-Known Member
I got new pads on order so will see if that can hopefully fix it. Is there a way to tell if they are contaminated? Brake lines are brand new and tires are too.
Crack????
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
It’s the clunking noise that sounds like the dead giveaway.
if everything else is brand new and the alignment is close that kind of narrows it down. Perhaps the driver side brake isn’t working at all could be a reason but my best guess is the lca bushing. You know what Dick at FirmFeel says ...the lca is the week link and can generally bend if you breath on em wrong...in your case where you slid in the ditch and caused that damage on the lower ball joint and your strut rods don’t look terrible...not good but not terrible...I’d be looking at taking a good look at the lca bushings. Good luck
if everything else is brand new and the alignment is close that kind of narrows it down. Perhaps the driver side brake isn’t working at all could be a reason but my best guess is the lca bushing. You know what Dick at FirmFeel says ...the lca is the week link and can generally bend if you breath on em wrong...in your case where you slid in the ditch and caused that damage on the lower ball joint and your strut rods don’t look terrible...not good but not terrible...I’d be looking at taking a good look at the lca bushings. Good luck
I don't know if I mentioned this in another posters post or yours.
But the backing plate could have groves worn into the pads where the shoes ride and that WILL cause brake pull.
I have seen, the upper especially, a "S" or "Z" shape
But the backing plate could have groves worn into the pads where the shoes ride and that WILL cause brake pull.
I have seen, the upper especially, a "S" or "Z" shape
Gabriel Larson
Well-Known Member
Gabriel Larson
Well-Known Member
no just hit it with a wire brush just build up of dirt
I've seen strut rods that looked straight while in the car, but on removal it was clear that they were bent where they went into the LCA on one end, and into the K frame on the other.
Same car, the K frame was bent and cracked right where the strut rod bushing hid it while it was all together.
Amazing thing was the car handled fine. But it got its K frame and strut rods replaced.
Sometimes you just need to get everything apart before you can see all the problems.
Same car, the K frame was bent and cracked right where the strut rod bushing hid it while it was all together.
Amazing thing was the car handled fine. But it got its K frame and strut rods replaced.
Sometimes you just need to get everything apart before you can see all the problems.
Were the brakes operating well before you went off road?
If they were then it's probable the accident has damaged something.
Just a little background...drum brakes are self-energizing and can be tricky to get right. Contamination on shoes from brake fluid or rear axle lube can cause them to grab. Usually by locking that particular tire up. Disc brakes are much more forgiving. One of the weak points of 9" drums, other than being on the small side, is that the lower ball joint is also smaller with smaller attaching bolts. 10" drums and discs use a larger lower ball joint. Oh, a small point, but drum brakes have shoes, and disc brskes have pads.
But you said it's pulling on acceleration too. It's possible that the combination of bad LCA and strut rod bushings is enough to allow the LCA to move fore and aft, in effect steering the car. The suggestion that Dana made in post #4 is a good one except maybe put a block in front of and behind the right front tire.
It looks like the general consensus is that the LCA and strut rod bushings should be replaced. It's curious that the alignment tech didn't mention that with 2 alignments.
Of all the components in a front end rebuild, the LCA bush is the most difficult. Unless you have a press, you'll have to take the LCAs somewhere to have them pressed in and out. Carefully inspect the LCA sockets in the K frame as they are prone to cracking and wear. It's the weakest part of old K frames. Make sure the idler arm is in good shape too.
Good luck!
If they were then it's probable the accident has damaged something.
Just a little background...drum brakes are self-energizing and can be tricky to get right. Contamination on shoes from brake fluid or rear axle lube can cause them to grab. Usually by locking that particular tire up. Disc brakes are much more forgiving. One of the weak points of 9" drums, other than being on the small side, is that the lower ball joint is also smaller with smaller attaching bolts. 10" drums and discs use a larger lower ball joint. Oh, a small point, but drum brakes have shoes, and disc brskes have pads.
But you said it's pulling on acceleration too. It's possible that the combination of bad LCA and strut rod bushings is enough to allow the LCA to move fore and aft, in effect steering the car. The suggestion that Dana made in post #4 is a good one except maybe put a block in front of and behind the right front tire.
It looks like the general consensus is that the LCA and strut rod bushings should be replaced. It's curious that the alignment tech didn't mention that with 2 alignments.
Of all the components in a front end rebuild, the LCA bush is the most difficult. Unless you have a press, you'll have to take the LCAs somewhere to have them pressed in and out. Carefully inspect the LCA sockets in the K frame as they are prone to cracking and wear. It's the weakest part of old K frames. Make sure the idler arm is in good shape too.
Good luck!
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67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
This is a definite possibility too. If the k is rounded out bad enough it could do what you describe.
Yes better idea, you won't be trying to move the car against the rear brakes. I would add trans in neutral will help too.
I had a 92 Chevy lumina and to change the rear spark plugs you put the car on park, unbolted the front upper torque struts and pushed the car till the engine rocked forward enough to put the bolt in another hole to hold it there. ( Fun with Chevys)
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