Band adjustment methods?

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Corrupt_Reverend

Corrupt_Reverend

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Okay, I've got the 904 completely torn down and getting ready to rebuild, and do the transgo tf3 MVB conversion.

In preparation, I'm reading through the MVB instructions and came across a note on "the best method for band adjustment".

I've read of this before but only once and thought it might not be a good way to go about things.

It's the whole deal where you lock up both bands, then loosen one until you can just start to turn the driveshaft, then back off half a turn. Change directions and do the same for the other.

The other method that I thought was the go-to way was tightening to 72 in/lbs then backing off two turns (or whatever it was).

I figure transgo knows a thing or two about this stuff so I'm not really sure which way is better.

How do you guys do it? Play it by feel, or use a torque wrench?
 
I always torque the set screw to 8 LB FT then back off 2 turns and lock her down.
 
I have tried the method of tightening the band till it locks the drum then back it off until theirs no drag on the band at all then back it off 1/2 turn more. Worked just fine for me. One time I did a comparison of the two methods and found the adjuster came out in nearly the same place each way I did it
 
Some just snug it up with a short spanner and then wind it out.
 
Exactly right ^^^^^. All you are doing is making sure all the slack is out of the band. In fact, on some cars I remember not having room to get a torque wrench on the kick down adjustment so I just used a 5/16 open end wrench and snugged it down good.

Now, one mistake I see people doing. Some people adjust the bands a little tighter, thinkin that will firm up shifts. That is incorrect. With bands in a Mopar transmission, it's how quickly the band releases that can speed up the shift. So they need to be adjusted correctly.
 
What I noticed is you have to able to wiggle the band fore and aft after the adjustment. If you can't it's too tight and you do need to be able to gain clearance between the arm and the servo with hand pressure. Don't over think it......
 
Just throwing this out there. Remember that unless you have one of those fancy electronic wrenches, a torque wrench becomes less accurate the farther from the center of it's range you go (becoming even less accurate at the lower end than the higher end due to how it's tension system works) always good just to have multiple torque wrenches rather than using one at the very extreme of it's range.
 
I don't think the adjustment is near as finicky as people may think. The manufacturers had to throw a number out there. The 72 lb/in and back off two turns is what they threw out there. Think of the ratio on your kickdown lever. Shouldn't this totally blow the two turns number out of the water?
 
This is one of the most misunderstood procedures there is when it comes to Chrysler transmissions. Most people will shy away from this method simply because it does not involve torquing the band adjustment screw to "X" in. lbs. and then back it off "Y" turns. However, in my opinion and from my experience, using this method will give you results far superior to the factory specified method. What people seem to forget about the factory method is that the technicians at the dealership weren't concerned with performance shifts. They were more concerned about having a transmission shift smoothly to suit the customers.

To do this, all you'll need are wrenches for the lock nuts and a socket for the adjuster screws. You can also use this if you just want to adjust one band. First, assuming you'll be doing both bands, loosen both lock nuts and snug the adjusters. You should now notice that you can no longer turn the drive shaft in either direction. Loosen either of the adjusters until you can barely turn the drive shaft by hand. Once this happens, loosen the adjuster another ½ turn and tighten the lock nut. Now, do the same with the other adjuster, only this time you should be trying to turn the drive shaft in the opposite direction. Once you can barely turn it by hand, loosen the adjuster another ½ turn and tighten the lock nut.

Not only is this procedure just as easy as the factory one, it's also more accurate. I've always been of the opinion that the factory specs made the bands too loose - especially the front one since that's the only shifting band that makes a difference in shift timing. If you're still skeptical about how well this procedure works, try the factory procedure and notice how the shifts are. Then try this one and I would be willing to bet that your shifts will be firmer. This method not only works on Chryslers, but on any transmission that has a band adjustment.

This is a quote from a online discussion about band adjustments. Interesting that Trans Go recommends the same procedure.
 
I would like to try it but I already have my pan buttoned up and the driveshaft is still out for a freshening up and a balance.
 
just remember...double wrap rear band in a 904 gets 4 turns backed out...Not 2 turns as the single wrap bands gets..
 
Dart/Valiant said:
But don't botch the job like they often do. Read carefully your service manual. Torque setting may vary depending of year.
Click to expand...
I've only watched a couple vids cause I already knew how to do it. Neither of them botched it. I have seen writings where some tell you the setting on the rear band on all 904's is the same when their not like Tony pointed out above
 
Is the driveshaft still hooked to the diff while turning it ?
Should the average guy be able to barely turn it or is he be a muscle laden brute with Popeye forearms...lol

Some clarity please
 
mbaird said:
Is the driveshaft still hooked to the diff while turning it ?
Should the average guy be able to barely turn it or is he be a muscle laden brute with Popeye forearms...lol

Some clarity please
Click to expand...

What I did was jacking the rear up and put transmission in neutral. This procedure is for only adjusting the front band.

First loosen the lock nut, then you just turn the adjuster screw in and at the same time turn the driveshaft at both direction with the other hand. You need to turn the driveshaft both ways because when you only adjust one band the driveshaft will only lock in one direction and spin freely at the other direction. You will notice when it starts to grab and when you notice it gets harder to turn then you back up 1/2 turn.
 
Unbelievable how something SO simple can get hacked all to pieces.
 
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