band saws

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pishta

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So looking into buying a used bandsaw, like a 10" or 12" Ryobi or Delta bench model. Question is the 24 tpi blades for metal. Any issue cutting up to 1/4 inch with these light weights? can I go a little more aggressive or do I still have to follow the 3 teeth contact rule? Jig sawing a 16 inch piece of 1/4 is a chore when your cutting like an inch a minute.
 
So looking into buying a used bandsaw, like a 10" or 12" Ryobi or Delta bench model. Question is the 24 tpi blades for metal. Any issue cutting up to 1/4 inch with these light weights? can I go a little more aggressive or do I still have to follow the 3 teeth contact rule? Jig sawing a 16 inch piece of 1/4 is a chore when your cutting like an inch a minute.
 
So looking into buying a used bandsaw, like a 10" or 12" Ryobi or Delta bench model. Question is the 24 tpi blades for metal. Any issue cutting up to 1/4 inch with these light weights? can I go a little more aggressive or do I still have to follow the 3 teeth contact rule? Jig sawing a 16 inch piece of 1/4 is a chore when your cutting like an inch a minute.
I think the rule is 1.5 teeth engagement at all time. You can use any tpi that is available for the bandsaw. The problem becomes overloading the motor. The 24 tpi takes a smaller bite than a 11 tpi blade.
 
I think the rule is 1.5 teeth engagement at all time. You can use any tpi that is available for the bandsaw. The problem becomes overloading the motor. The 24 tpi takes a smaller bite than a 11 tpi blade.

This is untrue.

Keep it to 3 tpi engagement at BARE MINIMUM. Any coarser than that, and you won't be cutting very fast at all because the rule isn't for the motor overload, it is what keeps the teeth from breaking off.

If you're cutting 16 inches of metal, a tabletop bandsaw is probably the wrong tool for the job. Make parts, not chips.
 
Those are woodworking saws, right? A woodworking bandsaw runs far too fast to cut steel of any thickness. They work OK for aluminum but make a lot of racket. Try one with steel and you'll blow the teeth of the blade in short order. I think wood saws run about 2000-3000 sfm and to cut steel the speed needs to be down around 100-300 sfm, so about a 10:1 reduction. The only home sized saws I'm aware of that work for metal are some of the older Delta/Jet /Rockwell 12" that can be setup for wood or metal with multi-sheave pulleys. Or you could do a 10:1 reduction on the drive on a dedicated wood one. Not a lot of good quality metal cutting blades available in that size though. There is also the HF horizontal/vertical saws. They can be a bit of a kit but do work well for metal and correct blades are readily available. Not much throat on them though.

If you can't find or afford a proper metal cutting saw, I'd suggest going to a fab shop that would have a plasma torch or table. I've got one locally and the charge for one-off quick cuts is very reasonable and low enough that I have no desire to get the equipment. Thought a plasma torch would come in handy on the car sometimes.....
 
I used a plasma (mine) and the cuts are pretty ugly. Very hard to get the head speed over the part correct for minimal slag and complete penetration. I dont cut enough to purchase a dedicated bandsaw, Maybe a Milwaukee port-a-cut mounted vertically? good info on the SFM. I didnt know that was a factor as I see many that list the SFM as up to xxxxSFM. Ill look into the job shops, can't be too much if I give them a 2X2 Sheet of 1/4 with some scribe marks on it? "Here, can you cut these shapes out for a 12 pack?" There is a "Maker-Shop" down the freeway that is like a complete 10,000 ft fab shop with all kinds of production grade machinery (CNC, 3D, lathe, mill, TIG, etc) and the staff to assist. Its a membership rate of $175 a month but they do sell gift certificates of $50 for some hours. Hey, for $10K, you get a lifetime membership!
 
Watch CL for a used HF Hor/Vert. They really do work well with a little tuning and are a step up from a porta-band in my opinion. usually can be had for ~$100. Just make sure it is the model with rotary adjustment for the blade alignment. Mine didn't have that and was a challenge to get a straight cut.
Another option is to contact SpeedyMetals. they will cut to any size A x B you want for no extra fee on multiples. There will be shipping involved unless you have a location near you, but it might be worth it depending on how many parts you have.
 
Watch CL for a used HF Hor/Vert.
Unfamiliar with that model, got a link or pic? Anyone ever use a vertical sawzall poking up through a table with a blade guide up top? I have one of those and may be able to rig something up...its just a thick blade so no radius cuts but could power through metal as I cut 2" cast iron pipe in about 30 seconds with a serious blade.
 
something like this.
1 HP 4 in. x 6 in. Horizontal/Vertical Metal Cutting Band Saw

It can cut tube and bar stock up to 4" dia in the horizontal mode or can be raised vertical to cut plate or other stuff. Comes with a little table for vertical mode. Only limitation is the distance from the blade to the support which limits how wide a cut you can make. There are a slew of improvements that can be made, google "harbor freight bandsaw mods".
 
I was gonna say that doesn't sound like a metal cutting saw.

A couple of years ago I got an HF bandsaw off craigslist for $115.

I had no idea how much use it would get.

Had to fabricate a vertical table but it works.

They are now $279 or so, so I'm glad I got it when and for how much I did.

This past winter I had to replace the blade, but it was only $29 and not a bad job to do it.

Only issue is that try as I might I can't get the cut 100% vertical to the base.
The adjustment is maxed out and I've even held it as far as I can while tightening (and it stays there), it's just not precise enough to be 90*
 
You seen those for ~100 used? Wow, Id jump on that if I ever even seen one used....Ill keep looking. Some guy made a table band saw out of a port-a-cut and it looked pretty nice. I used a port-a-cut once and I was suprised how loud and slow the blade went, but it made pretty quick work of a 5" steep pipe I had to cut for a 3m satellite dish.
 
Deals are out there, just have to be persistent. I bought my first one from HF for ~$200 and used the 20% coupon. This spring I nabbed a JET version, which is same design but better mechanical execution and motor quality, for $50. Sold the HF one for $50 and now I'm set.
 
What is the OP cutting?

I've also put a 10" concrete blade in a 10" miter saw to cut metal.

Works great.

Don't force it though or the blade could explode (just like any cut-off blade or grinder)
 
1/8 cold rolled plate. The 20 tpi on the jig jumps pretty bad , 24 tpi works but is slow. I cut my welded together heavy walled 1x2 rectangle tubes with an old carbide wood blade in a chop saw until all the carbide tups broke off, got through all 4 double welded pieces. Thing was rusty and shot, kinda scary as hot metal chips were flying everywhere.
 
My 4x6 horizontal/vertical saw was a dump find. I didnt find it, another guy did. I traded him for a rigid mitre saw.that i found at the same dump. About 8 years ago. They both still work.

I had to tweak my bandsaw, took some time and patience but i got it real close.
 
Well, I'm leaning toward a port-a-cut or a used 12 bandsaw. All the smaller bandsaws are 1/3 hp and do not offer a variable speed unless it's a certain model. The port-a-cut could be used to cut the frigging cast black pipe under the house for any further plumbing fun but now that I found that metal demon carbide blade for the old sawzall, those pipes have met their match. Im just trying to cut 1/8 plate faster and straighter than a jig saw thats a piTA and almost impossible to get a straight cut. So what bandsaw blade tpi do I use on 1/8?
 
Dude why are you so hell bent on a bandsaw?
I own a horizontal, a vertical with a reduction gearbox, a portaband saw, a plasma torch, a OA torch. A good 4.5" angle grinder and cutwheel blades is my go to tool for about everything any more. Just clamp the material to edge of a bench and do as said above in my earlier post, if it`s just a straight cut. Just buy a face mask, wear leather gloves and long sleeve shirt.
All the saws I listed have their place but my grinder is my go to tool to get-r-done.
Just trying to help. 32-18 tpi will all cut steel.
 
Dude why are you so hell bent on a bandsaw?
....
Just trying to help. 32-18 tpi will all cut steel.

The idea of pushing a piece of sheet metal into a bandsaw blade, against a fence to make a laser straight cut at any blade angle just makes sense to me for what I'm trying to build. If you were trying to build a metal box out of 1/8 plate, what cutting tool would you use?
 
The idea of pushing a piece of sheet metal into a bandsaw blade, against a fence to make a laser straight cut at any blade angle just makes sense to me for what I'm trying to build. If you were trying to build a metal box out of 1/8 plate, what cutting tool would you use?

a hacksaw?
 
I use a Metabo for most of my cutting and grinding
 
yeah, with a 16 inch throat? Isnt that what a bandsaw is, just a long *** hacksaw?

im not sure what they are called, but in shop we had one for cutting wood
it was like a hacksaw, and the arm would move up and down the table (like a jigsaw)
but the blade was thin, almost like wire, and it was great for cutting out shapes
 
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