Basement reno question(s)

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4spdragtop

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Hi all, redoing basement bathroom. When I build/install a wall parallel to my floor joists, which is the best way to block it?
Top still plate of wall will sit approx 6" below bottom of joist. Also where it meets up with existing exterior wall, there is no stud due to spacing. Should I block between joists flush? Then my wall would have to have a cutout in it (if that makes sense).
Or block down the 6" from bottom of joist? Hope this makes sense.
I have to block due to hydro water and ng.
Oh also should blocking be on edge, or on it's back?
Thanks all.

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I wouldn't do either. Basements are notoriously shy for headroom.

After you finish all your wiring and plumbing changes I would spray the cieling with dark brown flat paint and all that will disappear. All the better if you use can lights that extend below the joist line an inch or 2. It works GREAT, it's inexpensive and looks really good!
 
Heres pics of blocking and stud. Put in temporarily till I figure this out. But this is where they will start from. You can see the water pipe tightest to the wall and then the NG line.
Hope these pics help. Vertical stud I put up will only fasten in 3 spots. Top/middle/bottom.
I don't think lori will go for the brown paint on ceiling. I've seen it done in restaurants and it looks good!
Thanks guys. I'll show more progress pics tomorrow.

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You know about floating walls?
Up here our basement diveder-walls have to float up and down with the heaving of the cement floors , with hydrostatic and frost pressure. Wooden floors over the concrete have to float as well and be divorced from the walls. If we don't do this the semi-annual heaving tears thechit outof everything.
Some people hang their walls from the overhead floor joist,and let the bottoms float, others anchor to the concrete and float them at the top. I like the former, cuz different parts of the basements can heave differently. Just don't forget to pull the pictures down before the party starts, upstairs.
I'm not a carpenter and don't know squat about codes, cuz as a property owner I don't have to follow no stinking code....... yet. Well I know one thing, the inspector makes random checks, and if he don't like you, he has the power to put a stop to my construction. But I work on his car so he likes me. I mean he would like me to continue working on his car.
And I can tell you if you bring an electrical plan to the electrical inspector, make sure it doesn't contain any switched neutrals.Wiring your garage lights and some plugs with switched neutrals can save you hundreds of feet of wire, and your switches will last forever. This makes perfect sense to just run a ring of power all around your garage and Tee everything on to it, then run the neutral to the switcher and into the neutral ring, also strung all around the garage. Well it looked pretty good to me! I guess they won't get rich selling me wire I said.
Not so fast AJ said the inspector, that ain't code. Why not said I; what's wrong with it? It's just not done that way, cuz of the code says he.
Look I said I understand about stopsigns and redlights, but this here is a better plan than your stinking code. Yur arguing with the wrong guy says he, this ain't code, and when I come to inspect yur work, it has to pass code, or I don't sign off, and you can't close up the walls, and after one year your permit expires and it will cost you another $600 for a new permit.................
So I made that guy happy that day;there are hundreds and hundreds of feet of extra wiring in that stinking garage;
but the new guy works on his cars now.
 
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Thanks AJ, no frost heaving here. House is 40 years old and no signs of it. I had heard of floating walls, but thankfully not needed. No inspectors "needed" either lol, it will be done properly, minimum electrical needed....thankfully lol.
You know about floating walls?
Up here our basement diveder-walls have to float up and down with the heaving of the cement floors , with hydrostatic and frost pressure. Wooden floors over the concrete have to float as well and be divorced from the walls. If we don't do this the semi-annual heaving tears thechit outof everything.
Some people hang their walls from the overhead floor joist,and let the bottoms float, others anchor to the concrete and float them at the top. I like the former, cuz different parts of the basements can heave differently. Just don't forget to pull the pictures down before the party starts, upstairs.
I'm not a carpenter and don't know squat about codes, cuz as a property owner I don't have to follow no stinking code....... yet. Well I know one thing, the inspector makes random checks, and if he don't like you, he has the power to put a stop to my construction. But I work on his car so he likes me. I mean he would like me to continue working on his car.
And I can tell you if you bring an electrical plan to the electrical inspector, make sure it doesn't contain any switched neutrals.Wiring your garage lights and some plugs with switched neutrals can save you hundreds of feet of wire, and your switches will last forever. This makes perfect sense to just run a ring of power all around your garage and Tee everything on to it, then run the neutral to the switcher and into the neutral ring, also strung all around the garage. Well it looked pretty good to me! I guess they won't get rich selling me wire I said.
Not so fast AJ said the inspector, that ain't code. Why not said I; what's wrong with it? It's just not done that way, cuz of the code says he.
Look I said I understand about stopsigns and redlights, but this here is a better plan than your stinking code. Yur arguing with the wrong guy says he, this ain't code, and when I come to inspect yur work, it has to pass code, or I don't sign off, and you can't close up the walls, and after one year your permit expires and it will cost you another $600 for a new permit.................
So I made that guy happy that day;there are hundreds and hundreds of feet of extra wiring in that stinking garage;
but the new guy works on his cars now.
 
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