Basket Case Bracket Car

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CopperheadDart

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Location
Saint Joseph, MO
So it's not an A body, but contains A body parts, hope this is allowed. I thought it would be nice to chronicle this journey and my learning experiences that others may learn from.

I'd been looking for a small Arrow, Charger, Daytona, etc to make into a dedicated track car. My '67 Dart in my thumbnail pic is a street/strip deal, but it was at the point that I would rather take some gear out of it to enjoy on longer trips.

Enter the 87 Charger I found on racingjunk last summer.
It was listed as a running 1/8th mile car, with a high compression 340 on alcohol, with trans brake and 9" rear. I was sent a low quality video of it running, and a dozen or so pics of various aspects of the car. It had flaws for sure, but seemed to be a decent start that I could make improvements on. The seller was the grandson of the prior owner, and knew very little about the car, so I didn't have much to go off of besides the pics. It was 6hrs from me in Oklahoma, so that weekend I made the drive.

In person, it was disappointing. The roll bar was too short, and the main hoop too far forward (I'm 5'10" and it was very cramped). The interior was carpeted (should've been a red flag), and the body had its share of scratches and dents in the Prowler Purple paint scheme.

The front framerails from the trans mount forward are A-body, along with K-member. You can see that it's wayyyyyy too wide for this little car. The rear "coilovers" were regular shocks with springs and exhaust clamps- yikes.

Then the engine. It immediately flooded, wouldn't fire. I pulled the dipstick- milky. The 340 was, until that point, the only redeeming factor in this car. Hopefully a simple head gasket?

Anyways, I was 6 hours from home with a trailer, the dude wanted it gone, so I struck up a deal on it. Now I have quite a project.

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I began stripping it down when I got it home. The engine had a 4" long crack in the upper valley area that had been epoxied. Pretty disappointed in that. Engine had the old trw domes, a set of Bill Miller Engineering alum rods, a polished up steel crank, crane gold rockers, and heavily ported "O" heads. Heads have 2.08 intake valves, and the most porting I've seen on iron heads (may or may not be a good thing). Intake is a Weiand Xcelerator, with Holley 850 set up for alcohol. Basic small tube headers, electric water pump, TCI Rattler balancer.

So I took the block and heads to machine shop, and the block ended up having over 14" of cracks on both sides of valley. Luckily I had a standard bore 340 sitting in the shop that I took in. Heads were cleaned up, pressure tested, valve job, new exh valves and new guides.
The pistons had a weird coating on the domes and skirts, that was flaking off but not easily enough to remove it all without damaging piston, so I scored a set of NOS pistons of the same type, .030 over.
Not having history on the alum rods, I bought some Scat I-beams. Machine shop polished crank and balanced it all, and bored my good block .030.
I have an M1 single plane and a couple options on Holleys I'm going to use, and I decided to get the compression down to around 12:1 hopefully, so I can run 110 gas instead of alky.
Cam will be solid roller. Scored a set of the comp solid body lifters a while back. Not sure what cam brand and size I'll run yet.
Also bought a Kevko rear sump pan since I'll be doing away with the A-body suspension.

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Cool car, but I understand the things that disappointed you. Still, it should be a fun project
 
I'd never seen "O" heads before. I may try to find a flow bench in my area out of sheer curiousity. Here's a few shots after machine shop.
Also had block-fill poured in. Going to do some oiling mods that I should have done before I sent the block in... and some minor grinding on the valley for the tie-bars on the lifters to clear.

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The carpet was hiding some bad metal work. Silicone everywhere, half bare steel, half super thin aluminum with tek screws and rivets and whatever else was in reach.
When I get the front frame rebuilt correctly, along with roll bar, I'll do it up much better.

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Tore into the 727, to find that it was clean and usable. A phone call to Cope Racing Trans, and I had all the good stuff to throw back in it. The only unknown is how well the existing trans brake will function, but that's an easy change down the road.
Billet drum, bolt-in sprag, billet servo, new clutches, front pump, a 4-gear planetary, etc etc. Going to clean and re-use the 9" converter for now.

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Removed the 9" to go through it. Has a nice set of Moser axles in 4.75 pattern.
I like slot mags, but not on this car. Someone find me some 15x12 with 3-4" backspace Draglites to match the front!

Inside is a 5.13 gear with spool...and a cracked 3rd member :mad:. Can't catch a break with this car. Found a replacement chunk locally for $75, so new bearing kit and swapped it all over. Added a large fill bung and drain plug, checked for axle tube straightness, new brakes, and repaint while I was at it. Eventually I'll probably swap to disc brakes.

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Fun little car. Mine was an old Pro Steet car when I started. A friend tore the cage out and did a chrome moly cage for me and I built and old school stick stroke 440 with TRW pistons, upgraded stock rods, 906 heads, 4.88 Dana, 750 roller cam, and tunnel ran with two 750 Holleys. I switched it over to a powerglide a few years later. Car ran 10.0’s all year long.
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I'm really curious to see the intake flow numbers. The bowls look odd to me for a ported head, I'm wondering if they were flowed when ported and if that works with the 2.08 valve at what the peak cam lift was. Any numbers on the back of the cam?
 
I'm really curious to see the intake flow numbers. The bowls look odd to me for a ported head, I'm wondering if they were flowed when ported and if that works with the 2.08 valve at what the peak cam lift was. Any numbers on the back of the cam?
I don't recall any numbers on the cam, it had a cpuple flat lobes. I measured one of the good lobes at around .559 lift with 1.5 rocker. Judging by the hodgepodge of parts on that engine, I doubt the heads were flowed. I'm sure the port work isn't optimal but they should suffice for me, at least to get my car going.
 
Scored a deal on another piece to the puzzle, a mustang II style front suspension. 2" drop spindles, wildwood brakes, strange coilovers (350# springs that are probably too much for my car). This setup came out of a Monza with a big block. Rough measuring, I think ill have to narrow it up another inch or two. Just need to find a chassis guy that isn't busy, or space to do it on my own...

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I know what you are going through. I have been working on a 40+ year old Colt for a few years.
You are making good progress judging from your pictures.
 
I know what you are going through. I have been working on a 40+ year old Colt for a few years.
You are making good progress judging from your pictures.
Thanks, I've been following along on your build. A Colt or Arrow like yours was what I was really looking to find. Any chance I'll get to see it at MoKan?
 
Thank you for following along.
No I have had some set backs getting running right.
I was coming, insert sad face here...
 
Found a chassis guy a couple hours away that I took the car to last weekend. He's going to cut out the old cage that's way too small, and redo with a chromoly 8.5 cage, and tie in the mustang 2 clip I brought him. It'll be a chore tying it all together. He's also going to rough in the mid plate and front plate with my mock-up block and trans to get driveline geometry established. I'm excited to get some good framework to build off of.

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I bought the front and mid plates from Mancini. Mid plate is a Comp. Engineering, front is AR Engineering. To make the front plate work, I had to cut down the fuel pump ear on the timing cover. I made a cover out of 3/16 and tig'ed it up. AR Engineering showed some kind of spacer to prevent having to do this, but I saw that as one more place for a leak to occur.

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You're literally raising this car from the dead. They make nice little race cars when done right and it looks like you're doin just that! Nice work!
 
Floor and front frame is out, no turning back now! I'm curious how much weight I'm getting rid of swapping over to moly tube and the new suspension.

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Back from the chassis shop! Fab dude was able to use the front suspension clip I brought, and tie into the all new moly cage and floor structure. Mid plate is tacked in and needs finish welded, Front plate also needs final attachment work, but the driveline is all squared up where it needs to be. I'm a bit displeased he didn't put the main hoop another 3-4" back like I asked, I still felt very cramped in there mocking in my seat. But I can't change that at this point, so I'll deal with it.
I need motivation now to build a floor, seat mounts, tunnel, firewall, etc etc.

I did score some "turbo headers" on a trade deal, they're standard LA pattern turned up and forward. I'm going to build 3" dumps through the fenders in front of the wheelwell. I know they probably arent optimal compared to some larger long-tubes/fenderwells, but the clearance factor counts for a lot. There's nothing in the way with these.

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